Engine Woes

[Maverick4g63]

I need to know under what circumstances oil would leak from the bolt hole that I have marked in the picture. The motor is a fresh rebuild and during the oil priming process I forgot to leave the injector and coil pack unplugged..... I knew better than to get in a hurry and this is what happens when I get hasty. The motor ran for about 3 seconds before I got it stopped. Afterwards I unplugged the electronics and pulled the plugs before attempting to restart the priming process. To my horror the timing belt skipped several teeth on the cam sprockets as I spun it over. I threw up, went inside, and tried to get some sleep. Today I pulled the pulleys and t cover to access the t belt. I removed the tensioner and belt and spun the oil pump with a drill to get a prime. Instead oil pours from the aforementioned bolt hole and I am filled with a sense of dread as I type this. Please refrain from "your stupid" or "you shouldnt have done that". Believe me I know. Expensive lessons aren't forgotten. Thanks guys.

 

[92AWDHX40]

That bolt done timing belts but that goes into the block. Two of them, so you skipped teeth, as far as i know there is not oil plug back there on the block, just two holes for the bolts.

Did you replace the gaskets there is a bolt hold the front case on is there a balance shaft removal done?

 

[Maverick4g63]

Yes the balance shaft has been removed. There wasn't a gasket behind the belt tensioner piston assembly. I dont remember there ever being one either.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Did you put a bolt in the bs spot. vfaq.com

 

[Maverick4g63]

Yes the balance shaft port has been blocked. The oil is coming from the hole that is used for the retention of the belt tensioner piston assembly. This hole is normally filled with a bolt but is not sealed by a gasket.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Idk i never knew oil could come from that are, it must be a leak at the gasket behind the oil pump, i got a new one and those bolts go into the block, so im assuming its a gasket leak.

 

[Maverick4g63]

I haven't disassembled a motor beyond the head and oil filter housing. I will vfaq the removal procedure and go from there. Thanks for the input bro. I will update with what I find on the off chance someone else has this same problem.

Is it possible to prime the oiling system by spinning the oil pump sprocket alone? Is the crankshaft required to turn as well to achieve prime?

 

[ThunderChild]

for priming the oil system, your best method is to prime the system, then every 20 seconds roughly, rotate the crankshaft 90*. this will allow oil to prime into all of the crank passages and completely coat the bearing and journal surfaces.

if your oil leak continues, i would suggest thoroughly cleaning the bolt and block threads, then applying some rtv or anaerobic sealer to them, and reinstalling the bolt.

i have yet to tear into my 4g63 block, but on a 420aa i know those tensioner holes are blind holes, meaning they have a bottom in them, and there are not passages behind them, coolant or water.

good luck with it, and get back when you get some results!

 

[Maverick4g63]

It turns out that the bottom bolt hole for the hydraulic tensioner intersects an oil passage. So you cant prime a 4g63 without the hydraulic tensioner installed.

 

[ed1380]

6 or 7 bolt?

 

[bryanwheat]

I'm pretty sure that it doesn't go into an oil passage. There is a passage right below if in the rear of the case where the oil goes from the pump to oil filter housing. IF the gasket is torn or damaged behind the pump than oil will come out the hole that you are talking about. My money is that you need to change the oil pump gasket.

 

[Maverick4g63]

Its a 6 bolt motor. Mr. Wheat how sure are you that this is a torn gasket? I suppose I could pull the pump assembly off the block with the motor still installed in the car. I've already got everything else disassembled.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes pull the pump off and check the gasket out, there is not hole that, plugs anything. Ive done mine several times but let us know what you find.

 

[cotsi95]

You don't have a torn gasket. If you don't put rtv on the tensioner bolts then it will weep oil. I didn't do this on my first rebuild and learned my lesson. Just put some rtv on the bolts, put the tensioner back in and with the belt off put a drill on the oil pump and spin it for 20 seconds. Then turn the crank shaft 90* and spin the pump again. You'll know when the oil has reached everywhere when you see it coming out the top the lifters. Then retime your motor and your good to go.

 

[ed1380]

The tensioner bolt is right by the oil passage. If you have a leak then the gasket is damaged

These are the tensioner bolt holes. Notice how close they are. That's less than 1/4" sealing surface

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[TSi Kid]

Cracked oil pump?

 

[LambdaJoker]

Did you replace the hydraulic tensioner with a new one?

 

[Maverick4g63]

I havent heard of having to rtv the tensioner bolts. Last time I primed the motor with the timing belt installed. Im going to pull the pump and check it out for myself. I've gone too far to not check it out and see whats going on underneath.

 

[Maverick4g63]

I finally got around to digging into my top end problems and found what had failed. Apparently my number 4 intake cam journal cap was dry and seized when my motor tried to start. I went ahead and pulled the head and verified that all eight intake valves are trashed. I'm dropping my head off at the shop this week to see how much damage was done. Hopefully the seats weren't damaged too bad. My pistons have a few nicks that I plan to buff out with a flapper wheel to prevent hot spots. Moral of the story.... I'm an idiot.

On a side note: Have any of you guys had problems getting the head to slide off of ARP head studs? I had to pull every single stud to get the head off the block.