2G Engine removal?

[weebz1]

Alright, so here's the deal. I just bought this 96' Eagle Talon TSi AWD as a project car I'm relatively new to the DSM scene but I absolutely love the cars. I know they are rather high maintenance vehicles but oh well.

I have no compression and it has oil leaking around the head gasket and various other spots it seems as the front side of the engine has a relatively thick coat of oil on it with some of it being dry and some of it being fresh oil. So I'm guessing that's part of where I'm loosing pressure at, plus it has been sitting for awhile. The oil feeder to the turbo is also leaking a bit of oil as well. (This kid did a shitty job taking care of it. So I'm here to ressurect(sp?) this bad boy. )

So here's my question:

Would it be easier to remove the engine to re-gasket the motor and to verify all the internals are okay? And if so, what kind of special tools (if any) am I looking to get to make this whole thing much smoother?

ps. I bought the blitz body kit he was going to put on it and I'm going to sell it. I love the original look of the talon.

 

[bryanwheat]

No, I knew they're stuck in there like that and that they normally have to be driven out with a punch. I am not seriously going to mess with them, just poking around. I am curious though because I have a friend (...I know... ... but this time he's not imaginary ) that is somewhat "special" (he's a gullible dumbass), and he managed to remove them from the outside of the bearing somehow. His crank was out of the block though. Someone or something spooked him into thinking that if anything at all got on those bearing surfaces, it'd eat the crank or explode or magically turn into Richard Simmons... anyhow, he said they weren't really that hard to pull out. I personally don't know, as I didn't mess with mine when I replaced the crank, but I am going to look. There's a little leak on the pan gasket, so I'll have it off anyhow. I figured I'd check the end play and give it a little inspection to see if there's anything new and interesting in there since the last time I had it off.

I can assure you that your friend didn't pull them thru the outside. There is a lip about half way up the jet that is a larger diameter than the rest.

 

[H@xtGSX]

I can assure you that your friend didn't pull them thru the outside. There is a lip about half way up the jet that is a larger diameter than the rest.

I didn't know about a lip, but that makes sense. I thought they were just press fit... I wouldn't put something like jamming the fork of a pry bar on it and breaking the tops off past him. The holes were welded closed, from what I was told. It wouldn't surprise me a bit if he's driving around with oil squirter chunks in there. This same guy siezed a Toyota SR22 motor after popping a hole in the pan, field "fixing" it with duct tape , put a single quart of 75-90 gear oil in it (because oil is oil, right? Heeyuk! A quart should be plenty, I mean, look how much is still left in there after 3000 miles!! ), and tried to drive it the 9 miles back to town. It welded a piston to the block. Granted, it was many years ago, when he first started driving, but we still remind him of that occasionally...

Have you ever seen that movie "The Hills Have Eyes"? Yea... that's where I live. They filmed a lot of that movie around here. They weren't too far off on the crazy people either... He's one of them.

..........WE NOW RETURN YOU TO THE ORIGINAL TOPIC.

 

[weebz1]

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

^^ That rebuild kit seems decent. Rather spendy but the parts in the set are good quality..or so I've heard. What do you think?

 

[H@xtGSX]

I think that's a really, REALLY good rebuild kit... You could get an entire motor in really good shape for the same price though.

 

[WES_393]

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

^^ That rebuild kit seems decent. Rather spendy but the parts in the set are good quality..or so I've heard. What do you think?

That is a really good bottom end kit. I even think the price is outstanding considering what you get and the quality of Manley parts. I personally run Manley pistons and love everything about them. If you have the cash, I say go for it. A set of Manley pistons will run you $500, Eagle H-beams would be around $400, a set of race bearing would be around $100, and your stock crank (if even useable) will cost you a good couple hundred to be magnafluxed and polished/cut. So you would be looking at ~$1,200 for a mismatched bottom end (nothing wrong with that if done right) or $1,500 for a brand new Manley bottom end that has been made to fit together perfectly.

But, to play devil's advocate, the extra $300 can go a long way with block work, gaskets, head work, etc. So one could argue that using the stock crank (with legit piston/rod combo) would save you money and likely be more than sufficient for any power you'll put the block through. That's the route I went and haven't had any issues yet. So you can't go wrong either way so long as it's done right.

 

[weebz1]

I think that's a really, REALLY good rebuild kit... You could get an entire motor in really good shape for the same price though.

I wish I could find a complete motor for this same price that's in really good shape. I haven't come across one yet. I thought about switching blocks and rebuilding an entirely new new block... but then my numbers wouldn't match my car. It's not a huge deal to me but for now if my block is in good shape I think I'll stick with the original block.

But in reality, how likely am I to end up crankwalking on this.. all the possibilites are insane!! I love this DSM family already. You guys are awesome. Keep the advice coming

Today is the day I'm doing my leak-down test crossing my fingers it's just a blown gasket for now to allow me to save up for a better build in the near future.

I'll let you know how it turns out

EDIT:

So I Just got done testing cylinder one...

I set my regulator to 50psi. I'm dropping to 30 psi. And I hear the air coming from my dipstick/cylinder 3.

So.. My rings are bad, correct? Could it be because it has just sat for quite awhile? I've heard the rings might just be "sticking" from some random sources (ha!) but either way I should replace them...

I shall go test the rest of them for the hell of it.