engine removal [Merged 7-9]

[bnpimpn]

i was told that to remove the engine out of my car that you have to pull the engine out through the bottom of the car...is this true???? how long does it ussually take to remove and put a different motor in these cars??

 

[EmberSpyder]

A smaller garage or one thats full or stuff like mine means engine towards the door. but if you got some room then pull in. if nothing else then if this is a long time prodject then you will beable to have the door open during the summer.

 

[lockout]

although i agree with the above post but in my case its better to have the motor near the back of garage..its freakin cold outside and enless the garage is heated theres a nasty draft coming in throu garage doors.

although if u take my route and space is very limited then you'll have to put the wheels back on once motor and tranny are up/out and roll the car backwards to set the motor and tranny down.if theres room to slide the cherry picker back then you wont have to move the car.

to your 1st question are you talking about the wheel studs?(5qty)? or since yours is awd with probably the 4bolt rear are u talking about those bolts?(there will be 4 or 3)

with a haynes repair manual you'll be able to mpull that thing no problem by yourself with just common tools

 

[cturok7]

the wheel studs

 

[lockout]

if u know the size (u could use a lugnut to determine thread size) and check the front wheel studs for length.....take the lugnut to autozone they usually stock a wide variety of them.

 

[akira235]

it depends on your plans for the engine that is currently in the car, if you plan on building it or want to sell it then you should do it with the front end inside the garage, if you plan on scrapping it then i would say front end out. the reason is this, engine hoists are big, annoying, and have caster's that pretty much pick there own direction. and thats when they're not under load. put a 3-4 hundred pound engine swinging off a chain at the end of a boom and you have very little control on a flat, smooth surface. now if you throw even a slight slope into that mix and add what is probably a fairly rough surface on your driveway you will be set up for a good several days of obscenity and bruised knuckles.

thats if you care about the engine, if you don't then you should be able to move it fairly well on a sloped, coarse surface, considering it doesn't matter if it drops

 

[95GSXCO]

Your wheels studs you can get at any parts store. Why are you pulling the motor out now anyways? If it will take you 1-2 years for this my best advice is to leave the motor in the car untill you get all the parts (for the engine) you want and then pull it. 1-2 years is a long time to try and remenber where you put bolts and which go where. If you must pull it now and tear into the engine since you are a true "newbie" (frist engine) coffee cans or little bags will be your best friend. As you take bolts out mark the bags or cans and put them in. As for tools dont go over board with name brand I know checker auto parts sells great tools and have a lifetime warranty. I myself only use a air compressor for painting and powder coating. In my eyes I can do everything faster with hand tools as one can do with air. Thats my advice from a Newbie

 

[lockout]

95gsx and akira are both right.

 

[knochgoon24]

Your wheels studs you can get at any parts store. Why are you pulling the motor out now anyways? If it will take you 1-2 years for this my best advice is to leave the motor in the car untill you get all the parts (for the engine) you want and then pull it. 1-2 years is a long time to try and remenber where you put bolts and which go where. If you must pull it now and tear into the engine since you are a true "newbie" (frist engine) coffee cans or little bags will be your best friend. As you take bolts out mark the bags or cans and put them in. As for tools dont go over board with name brand I know checker auto parts sells great tools and have a lifetime warranty. I myself only use a air compressor for painting and powder coating. In my eyes I can do everything faster with hand tools as one can do with air. Thats my advice from a Newbie

I have to disagree on the air compressor advice.

You will want that air compressor and a decent impact wrench. If you are building the engine, you'll probably want to swap the exhaust out. It's also very nice for those pesky wheel nuts, the big 32mm one that holds the axle in the hub. Don't use it to tighten bolts and nuts back in. You'll want a quality torque wrench, but for getting stuck bolts out, an impact wrench can be a godsend.

I have a decent size garage, so I pull my car in front first. It keeps you away from the draft near the front doors during the winter. In the summer, I back it in so I can get some natural light with the doors open.

I pulled my engine in grassy yard right about where my car is parked in my avatar. The cherry picker I used with the engine was set on 2x6 boards to roll it. Any cement floor can't be worse than that.

Baggies are you friend when you start to take stuff apart. It keeps you from having as many of those "extra" nuts and bolts when you're done.

 

[akira235]

DEFINATELY bag up the bolts. when i bought my car all the bolts had been scattered so i had to replace almost all of them and it is an extreme pain. the best way to do it is to grab a box of ziplocks, a sharpie, and a can of wd40 or similar. label the bag, drop the bolts in, spray a little wd40 in there and close it up. the reason behind the wd40 is that it keeps the bolts from rusting and normally will remove any rust that is already on them.

should you choose not to do this there are a few bolts that you should definately keep because they are a pita to find, ALL the banjo bolts, the bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission, and the bracket/mount bolts. mitsu uses a 1.25 thread spacing for almost every bolt on the car, which would be great except finding a 12mx1.25x130mm (one of the t-case bolts if i remember correctly) is almost impossible, specialty bolt places stop at around 80mm long. so yeah, definately keep those

 

[se0nz]

all this advice is good, also for the wiring parts of the motor where you have to unplug them you can use something to label them so when you go to drop the motor back in you know what plugs into what. baggies are your friend along with a sharpie and so are pictures, if you take pictures as you go you can use them as a reference later. good luck, and as far as tools go, craftsman is good, when you get serious and start doing things all the time and start to really care about your tools and what not, well it gets more expensive. i got stuck on snap on hehe, my pockets are now empty good luck again and let us know how it goes!

 

[iboost]

i would pull it front end in first. and if its gonna take you a long time, put the bolts iun a clear plastic cup and label them, and if its in a high traffic area tape the tops of them so they dont spill..

 

[RobG1990]

just a quick question before i break something how do you seperate the engine from the trans in a auto 2g gsx

 

[95 'clipse RS]

do you have everything else that has to come out, out? or are you just starting on it?

 

[RobG1990]

do you have everything else that has to come out, out? or are you just starting on it?

everything else is out

 

[95 'clipse RS]

if everything else is off i.e. crossmember, downpipe, tranny to engine bolts, all tranny mounts, transfer case, torque converter to flywheel bolts, axles, etc. then it should just pull right off of there. some i have seen get stuck on the engine dowels. if this is happening you can carefully pry it off of the block. is the tranny junk or what?

 

[RobG1990]

if everything else is off i.e. crossmember, downpipe, tranny to engine bolts, all tranny mounts, transfer case, torque converter to flywheel bolts, axles, etc. then it should just pull right off of there. some i have seen get stuck on the engine dowels. if this is happening you can carefully pry it off of the block. is the tranny junk or what?

im takin the engine out.. the trans mounts have to come off??

 

[92AWDHX40]

yes if our pulling it out.

 

[RobG1990]

yes if our pulling it out.

not takin the trans out atleast i didnt plan to

 

[95 'clipse RS]

you're going to have to take the trans out unless you want a lot of clearence problems. once its out you can take the engine out. so now i see why you cant get it off of the engine... it's because you have the trans mounts on still. it wont move far enough off of the engine if you still have the trans mounts on... or you can take them both out through the bottom of the car then separate them after they are out.

 

[nlzn]

So I broke the top water pump bolt in half

However as many of you know there's no way I can get a drill in there to tap it out. It is leaking so I'm going to tap it.

I really don't want to remove the head and have to re-do the timing again.

Here's what I'm thinking would be the fastest and easiest route. Do I have to remove the passenger axle to get this done?
If I don't have to pull the axle out I was going to just remove the motor mounts and DP, remove the fuel feed and return and unbolt the bellhousing. Then lift / tilt with my hoist leveler to the point to where I could get an ez out on that top bolt. Since I'm not removing the motor I'd figure I'd save some time of removing the harness etc..

So, what do you guys think? I'm real hesistant to have to remove the head due to the whole timing reset, Literally I just did that like 1000miles with all new timing components and a new head/cams etc.. But I know getting the bellhousings seperated might be a huge PITA.

Appreciate any input.

 

[1fast97gsx]

So I broke the top water pump bolt in half

However as many of you know there's no way I can get a drill in there to tap it out. It is leaking so I'm going to tap it.

I really don't want to remove the head and have to re-do the timing again.

Here's what I'm thinking would be the fastest and easiest route. Do I have to remove the passenger axle to get this done?
If I don't have to pull the axle out I was going to just remove the motor mounts and DP, remove the fuel feed and return and unbolt the bellhousing. Then lift / tilt with my hoist leveler to the point to where I could get an ez out on that top bolt. Since I'm not removing the motor I'd figure I'd save some time of removing the harness etc..

So, what do you guys think? I'm real hesistant to have to remove the head due to the whole timing reset, Literally I just did that like 1000miles with all new timing components and a new head/cams etc.. But I know getting the bellhousings seperated might be a huge PITA.



Appreciate any input.

Why would you be removing the head???

 

[rush2252]

Get a drain pan. Jack up the car and remove both axles from tranny. Remove passenger side upper mount. Front lower mount. Loosen but do not remove the upper tranny mount. Place a jack with a 2x4 under the oil pan and jack up the motor. You should have enough clearance to get the job done.

I didnt detail everything but if you cant figure out where I was heading with the info you shouldnt be attempting this task.

Good Luck
Kolby

EDIT your awd as well You will have to remove the driveshaft.

 

[1timehondalover]

Why would you pull the head?

Do you know anyone that would let you borrow an angle drill?

 

[streetdblo]

ok so i decided to pull both the motor and trans today at the same time.... unhooked the harness and hoses and blah blah blah. marked em so i know what goes where etc..now comes to the son of a beach... ive got the driver side mount off, front mount, and passenger side mount off.... HOW IN THE f*$& DO I GET THE REAR ONE OUT? Also driver side axle wont come out. ive used and impact wrench and everything and still cant get the castle nut off. i removed the carter key and all, but this whole thing is nothing but a rust bucket on the hub, im thinking of just dropping the lower control arm and what not and the whole suspension and cutting the sob out. the axle is just in my way and im not using them for the manual swap. im replacing all of the axles. its a fwd 95 talon tsi. i have a hoist and a tractor to pull this out. so yea... any help on this topic would be awesome! maybe a step by step removal.

 

[snowborder714]

You should be able to get to the rear mount if you have all the stuff removed that'd be in the way (upper intercooler piping, battery, trays, etc.). Just take out the three bolts that bolt the mount to the subframe and the one bolt that goes through the mount and yank it out.

If they axle is stuck in the hub, try pulling it out of the transmission and moving it out of the way. If not, try some PB Blaster on the castle nut. My brother and I had to use a breaker bar with a jack under it to get his loose...yes, that's right, we jacked the breaker bar up until it popped!