engine removal [Merged 7-9]

[bnpimpn]

i was told that to remove the engine out of my car that you have to pull the engine out through the bottom of the car...is this true???? how long does it ussually take to remove and put a different motor in these cars??

 

[streetdblo]

ok everything is moved out of the way. i removed all the intercooler piping.. blah blah blah. battery trey is out as well. i even removed the box where my throttle cables run. problem i run into is i dont have enough room to get a wrench on the bolts for the mount. like i can get them on but its at more of an angle and using an impact wrench doesnt really work all that well at an angle it just strips them out. as far as the castle nut goes. i sat there for a good 45 minutes with my impact wrench on it trying to break it loose. maybe ill try the breaker bar idea tomorrow. i cant get my lower control arm bolt loose either even with an impact wrench, i dont know maybe my wrench is dieing. perhaps ill break out the air impact wrench tomorrow. just have to get my air compressor up here.

any ideas on how to cut the damn axle in half?? i tried a sawzall but that was useless, it just gvae the area a nice polished look. haha

 

[snowborder714]

Do you have any extensions? I can get the rear mount out without removing anything else by a 24" extension.

Try a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel maybe? Or a different blade for the sawzall.

 

[streetdblo]

yea i have extensions and what not. do you have aim? send me a message

veritas08871

 

[lacroixdp]

If all the other mounts are already off, that middle bolt on the rear motor mounts going to be tough to get out... it's most likely torqued to one side. Use a crowbar on the head of it and just pry the bolt out. You don't have to remove the bottom half. Watch that engine though - it might want to roll back onto your arm while you're taking that bolt out if you don't have some tension on the hoist. That and the front motor mount are always the first ones I remove to avoid that situation. For your castle nut, I'd either do what snowboarder suggested with the jack (I've done that before, it works fantastic), or I'd get an impact wrench with more balls, like a NitroCat:
Amazon.com: 1/2 In Dr NitroCat Impact Wrench w/ Flame Housing: Automotive

 

[donniekak]

Get the biggest screwdriver that will fit in the fins of your rotor, stick it in so when you turn the bolt to loosen it the screwdriver hits the caliper. Now get a 4-6' long pipe and put it over the breaker bar, it will come off.

 

[streetdblo]

alright so should i put my other bolts back in the mounts and try to get the back one lose? then remove the side mounts?

ill post some pictures of the progress in the morning.

 

[lacroixdp]

I would - it's a lot easier to get those side mounts off than the rear mount when they are torqued like that. Whenever I pull these, I put tension on the hoist, rear, front, tranny side, then cam side in that order. I remove the tranny mount on the tranny usually for more back and forth room, along with the slave cylinder hose plate bolted right above there. You shouldn't have to remove the cruise control box.

 

[streetdblo]

ok ill give that a shot tomorrow. im using a tractor with a chain wrapped around the bucket to hoist this bad boy out atm, my engine hoist broke and i didnt know it... never loan tools out to your drunk friends.... they never come back the right way

 

[streetdblo]

ok so after hours of fighting with the castle nut and breaking a 3/4 inch breaker bar..... busting a impact socket and having a busted up elbow, i took a cutting wheel to the axle and cut it in half, got it out of the tranny and i finally got my rear motor mount loose by just removing the fuel filter and moving it over a few inches. out she came like butter. im on my way to pick up a cherry picker from my uncle and motor will be out withen the hour

oh yea axles are fun when you use them for a baseball bat. grease flew every where

 

[dSmgs-T]

i had a NIGHTMARE getting my axles off when i yanked my motor out, it sucked!

 

[streetdblo]

well fokes i am proud to say that after 2 days of wrenching, 5 cans of pb blaster, a busted elbow, a bruised nose, and 6 broken sockets/wrenches later..... the engine and transmission are out

now im debating whether i want to finish the project but im sure after this ice cold brew im chuggin down ill think other wise and decide to make my wallet alot less heavier. i have pictures and ill post up everything i had to do. but its time for a shower

 

[ctcare89]

I'm not seeing pictures...

 

[streetdblo]

hold on not to worry im fixing that issue right now

 

[cardot33]

Awesome to see you finally got it out. What are some of your plans for the talon?I would've recommended the oxyacetylene torch on that axle nut. Either heat it up and cool it to ease it off or just cut it away.

 

[ctcare89]

Alright, just checking

 

[streetdblo]

well as of right now my plans for the talon are to upgrade the turbo. which i already have. i have a big 16g that came with the car and a bunch of after market parts. my goal is to reach over 300 whp and ill be content with that. i plan on converting the rear end to an eclipse rear end and having a talon front end. slam it to the ground and put some 17's on. a full catback, not just a fart can. i hate it when i see cars with just a can... i mean seriously what difference does it make? it makes it louder and annoying and sounds like crap.

i would like to repaint the engine bay and block and hide the wires but im not to sure how my funds are looking after i drop the money on this tranny swap and a few other parts im picking up.

ill keep you guys updated dont worry. sorry the picture upload wouldnt work. its stormy here and my broadband is running slow.

any input from you guys on what i should do to the talon?



as far as the castle nut goes.. if i had access to a decent torch i would have done that, but i was sick of waiting to pull the motor and since im swapping to manual from automatic i dont need the old axles anyway. im replacing the hubs as well because they are nothing but solid rust.

oh i have some cancer eating away at the strut tower mount on my car. passenger side its about the size of a gatorade cap. any suggestions on how to fix it?

oh yea thanks brian for helping me out today.

 

[streetdblo]

so today on my break from work i went to truevalue and was looking for purple power. well they quit selling it for some odd reason. my friend Dan said they sold alot of this cleaner called super clean. well for 6 bucks for a spray bottle i said ehh ill give it a shot.

keep in mind i power washed the engine bay this morning before i went to work and it wouldnt take off alot of this grease build up that was in there. i kid you not i soaked the whole engine bay with this super clean and you could hear it sizzling as it worked the grease loose. i let it soak for no longer than 5 minutes and decided to spray it out with a water hose. clumps of grease the size of my hand fell off, it ate threw the paint and into a few spots where it had rusted. it even ate some of the rust off.

not even foamy engine bright cleaner, purple power, or any other degreaser ive found will do that! i used the whole bottle in the engine bay and she is shining like new... minus the few patches where it ate the paint off. im getting a big 5 gallon jug of this stuff tonight and im cleaning the whole under side of the car and the engine. ill post some pics of before and after when i get back tonight.

oh yea... its environmentally friendly as well

on another note, searching threw the valley trader i came across a guy with some eclipse and talon parts for sale. i called him and he said yea i have my talon that a tree fell on and its a TSI. a 1996... turbo fwd automatic... ehh but the motor has 87k miles on it. he said 300 bucks and the motor is mine with a warrenty. should i pick her up? have an extra block sitting in the garage to build up and maybe exceed 400 whp by the end of the year???

 

[cardot33]

for the rust: do you know how to weld? if not, it's time to learn. you can patch that rust if you can get access to a decent MIG, cut out effected area and patch in a similar thickness of metal. learn before welding on your car of course.

 

[Carlz0r]

Best way to fix the rust would be to find a non-rusty cap and replace the entire thing. That way you have very little chance of heat warpage and you also won't weaken the steel anywhere near as much.

 

[Levesque]

im having same problem on my 2g the driver side axle nut is rust welded , going to have to cut it

 

[streetdblo]

grinder with a cutting wheel and it cuts like butter

or if you have a cutting torch... even better

on another note. my damn grocery getter died on me at 1am this morning while coming back from walmart. i wanted a pizza... all i wanted was a damn pizza. battery light came on and im like ok well im headed home it will be ok for the 10 miles... wrong. car died in the middle of 29. i drifted threw the stop light and into a turn off spot. no cell phone and no flash light sucked. i walked and got a ride from a friend who saw me. alternator died on me. damn GM

 

[joshs1074]

thank god your friend just happened to be driving by. sorry about your car though

 

[snowborder714]

Isn't that what delivery is for?

 

[streetdblo]

i live in BFE im like 3 miles out of the delivery limit for dominoes or pizza hut. and they arent open at 1 am haha.

 

[streetdblo]

well i got the motor today, and im leaving tuesday morning for ohio in my NEW TRUCK. going to get the tranny. my mom surprised me for my bday and got me a nissan pickup with 70k miles, mint condition. its never seen the rain or snow, no scratches and im the 2nd owner of the truck. so i can do the talon right and put lots of money into her