engine removal [Merged 7-9]

[bnpimpn]

i was told that to remove the engine out of my car that you have to pull the engine out through the bottom of the car...is this true???? how long does it ussually take to remove and put a different motor in these cars??

 

[beating4g63s]

if memory serves me right and I'm looking at these pics at the right location once you have the two starter bolts removed theres one more bolt, like the other guy said it's 12mm if you keep looking down on the starter side it's on the opposite side of all the other bolts, lets say your looking at it from the drivers side, and once the shield is removed then get a piece of wood and a floor jack and jack it up a little should break it free with a few pushes.

 

[Secksthemex]

Removing the starter is a must, but I have to say taking all of it out in once piece will be so much easier.. Make sure all the bolts from the tranny, and transfercase of gone, and make sure you have your engine supported with the engine hoist this will save your life haha. the transfer case has between 5-6 6bolts my awd auto 1g 6bolt had 6 which was a slut. And of course, take the mounts off

 

[bluegs03]

The starter has been removed. I got the bolt near the engine mount as well. The bolt that i removed near the rear engine mount is the 12mm that i believe you are talking about.

Does the transfer case need to come out in order to separate the engine and tranny?

 

[dsmmatt28]

yea 5 bolts holding it up

 

[bluegs03]

yea 5 bolts holding it up

Are you saying there are only 5 bolts holding the tranny to the engine or only 5 bolts holding the transfer case onto the engine which needs to be removed?

if i have gotten all of these bolts off im guessing that the clutch assembly and spindle might be stuck on there causing it to not want to seperate i guess i just have to get in there and rip it apart.

 

[Rob10_99]

Its def. easier to pull the trans with the block, it comes out easy.
Just get the axles and Tcase off.

 

[dsmmatt28]

5 bolts hold the trans case.5 bolts hold the tranny one of them a 12mm and the other ones 14mm the trans case the 5. The problem is that input shaft slides in to the clutch. Sometimes get stuck espesially if the tranny has never came off. Get a prybar and weged it between the block and the tranny it might be a bi*** start with a screwdriver and the go larger with the prybar. Use a hamer and tap the screwdriver in first. It will pop loose. Once you get it loose you will have to lift and pull out at the same time. I told you to just call me I pmed you my number. Only use the screwdriver and prybar if all the bolts are off.

 

[bluegs03]

well the engine is out thanks guys it turns out dsmmatt was right i had gotten all of the bolts it was just that the input shaft was sealed against the clutch assembly. Btw this is the biggest pain in the rear thing i have ever done with this car EVAR! In order to slide the engine out the bottom i had to remove the exhaust lower subframe etc etc etc etc, im going on my 3rd week of trying to get the engine out and im tired of it .

Anyway enough complaining thanks for the help everyone

 

[dsmmatt28]

Glad its out. hit me up if ever need help

 

[TxR6guy]

###### would have been easier to pull it with the head on w/ header and just pull the axles and transfer case off with tranny still bolted to block. Mine came out real easy that way.

 

[dsmmatt28]

Whats up brian. Those dudes where serious the other night, I mentioned to him to just pull the whole thing out. Either way its out. Damn dude cant wait to get my chip and turn the boost up think I will be able to get kyle.

 

[shawnwizzight]

Another option is to drop the motor to the ground. I don't now what your working with, I have a engine hoist hanging from my beams in the garage, but anytime i pull a front wheel drive motor, i drop it to the ground.

Then hook the hoist to to front of the car with some shackles, life the car up high enough to clear motor, and pull the motor out from underneath the car.

Let the car back down, and push it out the garage. Just another way to got with it. Plus you don't have to remove as much stuff to get it out through the bottom.

Always a good idea to pull Trans with motor. Lot less to have to line up when you go to put motor back in.

Would you take your oil pan off first?

 

[1pt5barboost]

Just got my first DSM. 91'TSi Talon. Compression tests show cylinders 2 & 4 need help. I'm dropping this engine for the first time I'm stuck. Things that are gone: Intake piping, radiator, all wire hirness and vacuum conections, entire exhaust and right side drive shaft with half axle.

Can't seem to pry the right side axle out of transfer case?
Want to pull the A/C compressor off the engine, but leave it hooked up (not discharged)?

Any help would be appreciatted.

 

[gsxtasy]

Maybe, because the axle doesn't go in the transfer case. You can also just unbolt the compressor from the back of the block, it's like 4 bolts, just take it off and set it there.

Just make sure you have all the connectors unhooked, the IC piping out, exhaust off, battery out, hoses unhooked, then unbolt the motor mounts and hoist it out. Sounds like you have a good start.

 

[4g63Powered]

The easiest way to do it is just run your hand between the engine and the body. If anything stops your hand, it needs to get removed.

And if you can't get the passenger side axle out, you *can* get the engine and trans out with it still attached if you get a load leveler and put some lean on it.

 

[1pt5barboost]

Thanks for the input. I found two of the bolts for the A/C. One of them is shared with the left half-shaft bearing bracket. The other two must be close.

 

[4g63Powered]

IIRC there's two on top and two on the bottom, roughly making a square.

 

[99gst_racer]

Remove the t-case too. Then, you'll see where that other cv axle goes.
Also, disconnect the heater core hoses from the core. And the throttle cable. And the clutch line going to the slave cyl. And power steering hoses at the pump.

*needscoffee*

 

[1pt5barboost]

99gst - I forgot to mention that the clutch slave cylinder is removed, the throttle cable, battery, heater core hoses and shifter cables.

I'm actually having a hard time with the gigantic banjo fittings that seem to go from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler. The bolts are big, shallow and hard to get too.

As fra as the power steering pump. Is there a good place to remove those hoses, or doesn't it matter?

 

[4g63Powered]

FOr the power steering pump, just unbolt it from the bracket and leave the lines attached. It'll be a mess if you disconnect the lines. There's three bolts holding it to the bracket. Two behind the pulley (line up the holes and you'll see them, they're at 12o'clock and 6 o'clock) then the third is on the opposite side.

Do you have a 90 style oil cooler? If you only have the 91+ sandwich cooler you dont have to take it off.

 

[1pt5barboost]

I guess the guy before me did some mods including the oil cooler. It's mounted in front of the A/C Condenser. It's all connected and something has to come out. I figured the best point was at the oil filter head unit.

 

[Boost92awd]

What big sockets do I need to remove the engine? I know there are a couple, I'm talking about the ones bigger than 19MM.

 

[95burgundyesi]

Thats the biggest I need to pull a transmission and engine together, Unless you for some reason want to take the axel nuts off. Those are 24mm I think.

Taking the engine and trans out togehter is not hard, cake work. Get the xcase, axels and all plugs and clips off, down pipe, battary, radiator, and hoses frm the firewall and emissions. Then take the driver mount out, take off the water pump pulley to make life easier so you dont hit the lines on the strut tower. It can be done both ways, I prefer working smart not harder. Get the other mounts now. Then place your chain on the overhaul plates if you have them, if not nut on stud. Set the chain closer to the timing side so as you lift it out it will tilt motor side up. and guide it out and it magically come out.

You would be amazed how many DSMers told me it can't be done.

 

[cturok7]

So guys it's about time to get my DSM towed to my new house. I am about to do something that I've never done before - pull my first engine.

My 91 AWD 5spd Talon sits just 5 miles away from my current position at another fellow DSMer's house. He has not been responding lately so I've decided, since I have rented this house with it's 1 car garage, to tow the car here. Most of the engine accessories have been taken out. I basically only need to loosen the motor mounts and I finished with pulling the engine successfully. I have a second vehicle that is reliable so I'm fine as far as transportation. This new project will be a time in my life where I will: have to buy quality tools like a compressor, a quality ratchet set, wrenches...pretty much the whole sh'bang.

I have posted in the newbie forum for some of my former posts. I did not think it appropriate to get newbs advice since I have learned so much by tearing the car down, getting advice from you guys, and doing a lot of research, and the VFAQ.

Basically, I have a LONG way to go. I know this. This project may last from 1-2 years to get the car running again. It's a bit overwhelming actually, but I really would like to accomplish this. Simply put, DSMs were ahead of their time when they came out. There's really no need for swapping a 4G63 engine, like a 240 or a honda b engine. They are race engines to begin with. I need advice with 2 things:

1. The bolts that connect the actual wheel to through the brake disc behind the caliper are out. In this case, it is difficult to get the wheels back on to get it onto a flat bed. I don't want my DSM being killed on the way to the house.

2. If you had a one car garage would you face the car towards the inside or the outside. This is with the engine pull in mind. My drive way has a very slight declined towards the road. I will most likely have the car on jacks.

I appreciate the support guys and girls. I am confident that I will receive it.
Chris.Torok

 

[dylnwit]

Car placement really depends on a few things. If there's 3 or 4 feet on all sides of the car, then either way would be fine. I'd probably put it with the front facing in, and the back near the door if there's 4 or 5 feet in front of the car, if not though, front towards the door would be best, so you have some extra space in front of the car as needed. I'm not sure though about the other issue though. As for tools, craftsman is a good route, as when they break, they can be exchanged for new ones no charge, and I've had great success with dewalt power tools.
Just my .02