engine removal [Merged 7-9]

[bnpimpn]

i was told that to remove the engine out of my car that you have to pull the engine out through the bottom of the car...is this true???? how long does it ussually take to remove and put a different motor in these cars??

 

[iwannagofast89]

Ive pulled and put in a motor in a 2G and 1G and I'd say the 1G is a lot easier being it has a little bit more room.

 

[cturok7]

I do plan on pulling the engine and tranny as one. Thanks to everyone who has put in.
I do not have abs. Is the transfer case really hard to remove? Right now I'm dealing with my o2 housing. My exhaust pipe is "stuck". The bolts are hard to get at.

 

[girlieracr4g63]

Something that always helps me is to buy some baggies. Put your bolts clamps etc. in them and lable what goes to what. Just helps A LOT!! Good luck!

 

[Big28 2gFWD]

BAG AND TAG EVERYTHING!!! Nothing added more time to my engine swap like running digging around, trying to find what bolt goes where. Get a cheater bar, and remove the trans and engine as one unit. Label any plugs on your harness that are not obvious, this will prevernt having a "mystery plug" when putting it all back together. DO NOT CUT THE VACUUM LINE GOING TO THE BRAKE BOOSTER!! There's a one way valve inside of that line.

 

[SBstar]

Do you have an impact? The exhaust bolts/studs are probably just rusted up in there really good, be careful not to strip them. This goes for the O2 housing or just the downpipe.

The transfer case should be fairly easy to remove, just make sure all the bolts are out of it. the hardest part is sometimes the shaft is seized into the transfer case and it's a bear getting them to come apart, I ended using a hammer and a pair of vice grips on the shaft to get one to come apart once be careful not to damage any of it though.

Is this an auto or a manual? If it's an auto make sure all the wiring off the trans is disconnected, pain in the butt to rewire. Another good connection to not miss is the knock sensor on the back of the block since it's hiding under the intake mani.

When you put it all back together, you can often benefit from buying yourself a bucket of bolts from dsmgraveyard or mitsubishigraveyard (I forget which one sells them), or at least have extra bolts laying around. I had three cars worth of bolts when I put this last dsm together this week.

 

[brute]

BAG AND TAG EVERYTHING!!! Nothing added more time to my engine swap like running digging around, trying to find what bolt goes where.

I can't agree more. My biggest piece of advice for any engine removal is label every single thing. I mean everything. I just went crazy with a bunch of sandwich bags and a sharpie, and I thought I had everything labeled but I still had a bit of confusion with tiny random bolts (ie timing tin bolts). So when I say everything I mean everything! You might even consider taking pictures of where the bolt/connector came from and putting the picture in the bag as a label.

Another thing is when you take the front case off, try to remember where each bolt goes. If you mix them up, you can just put all of them in the holes in different combinations until the same amount of thread sticks through. Or just look at a diagram, but that's cheating

Take your time and label everything. Keep similar parts together so when you are putting it back in, you can go to the 'transmission area,' 'motor mount area,' etc. And don't disconnect the power steering lines from the pump; as someone said, just unbolt it and swing it out of the way. do the same with the throttle cable and the shift cables. Just zip tie them out of the way. Oh, and good luck

 

[Laysher91]

The transfer case is easy to remove. Its 5 or 6 bolts, slide it off of the tranny, drop it and slide it off of the driveshaft. Make sure you have the driveshaft supported some how or it will fall! If you are having difficulty reaching some bolts, now is the perfect time to buy fancy tools that will make the job easier

 

[T is for TURBO]

Everything seems to be covered. But I'm going to suggest the obvious, drain ALL fluids, and make sure you have a lot of oil dry. The trans will always save a little gear oil for you to find when you pull the motor with the trans still attached. As soon as you angle it out, it starts pouring out. And if you like me, the smell of gear oil makes me want to puke

-Shawn

also, keep your area organized!

 

[blcknspo0ln]

The transfer case is easy to remove. Its 5 or 6 bolts, slide it off of the tranny, drop it and slide it off of the driveshaft. Make sure you have the driveshaft supported some how or it will fall! If you are having difficulty reaching some bolts, now is the perfect time to buy fancy tools that will make the job easier

Putting a floor jack between you and the Xcase usually helps

 

[brute]

On that note, it is possible to take the motor out with transmission and transfer case attached, although I wouldn't recommend it unless you have a few friends ready to help and a dictionary of swear words in your head. When my motor came out, the output shaft to the transfer case was actually rusted on and seized so it was still attached when we pulled it out. There's no real science to it, just a lot of twisting, clearancing, jacking up and down, and angling.

 

[MountainDew]

Why is it easier to take it out with the transmission? I'm getting ready to pull my motor out and I don't want to pull the transmission with it..

 

[T is for TURBO]

I chose to pull it all out because its easier to disconnect the two while they are both outside of the car. Same goes for mating them back together, putting a trans on an engine is 100 times easier when they are out of the car. Especially if you're a tard like me and can't get the spline on the input shaft to line up with the trans.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I chose to pull it all out because its easier to disconnect the two while they are both outside of the car. Same goes for mating them back together, putting a trans on an engine is 100 times easier when they are out of the car. Especially if you're a tard like me and can't get the spline on the input shaft to line up with the trans.

I think it's a pretty common failing of us 2 DSMers, 1 engine stand, and 20 minutes took us to mount the trans to the engine.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I think it's a pretty common failing of us 2 DSMers, 1 engine stand, and 20 minutes took us to mount the trans to the engine.

It took one pallet (modified to hold an engine in the up right position) 1 DSMer (me) and one engine hoist to lift the trans and about one hour to line the damed thing up. And that was with the engine out of the car (obviously).

 

[-LA-]

Another option is to drop the motor to the ground. I don't now what your working with, I have a engine hoist hanging from my beams in the garage, but anytime i pull a front wheel drive motor, i drop it to the ground.

Then hook the hoist to to front of the car with some shackles, life the car up high enough to clear motor, and pull the motor out from underneath the car.

Let the car back down, and push it out the garage. Just another way to got with it. Plus you don't have to remove as much stuff to get it out through the bottom.

Always a good idea to pull Trans with motor. Lot less to have to line up when you go to put motor back in.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Another option is to drop the motor to the ground. I don't now what your working with, I have a engine hoist hanging from my beams in the garage, but anytime i pull a front wheel drive motor, i drop it to the ground.

Then hook the hoist to to front of the car with some shackles, life the car up high enough to clear motor, and pull the motor out from underneath the car.

Let the car back down, and push it out the garage. Just another way to got with it. Plus you don't have to remove as much stuff to get it out through the bottom.

Always a good idea to pull Trans with motor. Lot less to have to line up when you go to put motor back in.

You could do that. But I'd be leary about that, and wouldn't do it myself. You have to keep in mind that the trusses designed to be PUSHED on from above, not pulled on from below.

 

[pimpin81]

i was just wondering if there were any special tools required to remove the engine and transmission out of a 91 eagel talon tsi awd turbo....

anything you might not have in a basic tool kit.. like a 23mm socket ect.....

 

[pimpin81]

i was just wondering if there were any special tools required to remove the engine and transmission out of a 91 eagel talon tsi awd turbo....

anything you might not have in a basic tool kit.. like a 23mm socket ect.....

 

[jemsoccer]

An engine hoist would be recommended to be able to adjust the engine as it will sag when you pull of the engine mount...

 

[9 T GSX]

Few things that are nice to have and need to have.
1) 36mm socket for axles
2) engine load leveler
othe than that its pretty straight forward.

 

[SanTa_]

You'll be looking at this

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/282712-7bolt-removal-pics.html#post151401705

Remove the axles first! 32mm for me, but idk if its 36mm for the 1g.

Actually I removed the driver axle only.

 

[pimpin81]

cool thanks. so basically only special tools is a 36mm socket for a 6 bolt, to remove axels and a pickel fork...

 

[Shady1687]

no not really i did it with just a normal mechanics tool set. it is pretty stright forward. i removed the head first then went from there. but most people say to just pull the engine and trans out complety as one. what you want just double check that you have every little thing disconnected and label everything if it is your first time taking out a dsm motor. you should have no problum

 

[joe sobo]

i beleive that the easiest way to take the motor and trans out together is by dropping them both to the ground . i pulled my motor and trans yesterday in exactly 1 hr. 5 min. but i did it off of a lift

 

[DSM Jeff]

Why pull the axles? theres absolutly no need to. Also I found it easier to drop the trans first, then pull the engine. If you pull them together your best bet is to pick up a load leveler and pick the timing side of the engine up first. Once about half way out you can level it out as you lift and clear the rad support.