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Engine rebuild issues **Pics**

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95GreenGSX

15+ Year Contributor
365
0
Sep 14, 2006
Chicago, Illinois
Okay, so today me and a buddy pulled apart the motor of my 2g auto. This is my first time tearing apart the motor. I was planning on building/ porting my head and leaving the stock bottom end on the car. There is a couple of issues we came across. I found that I have coolant in the oil. The headgasket had no cracks or splits. Could it possibly have lifted? I also found a small curled up piece of metal on the oil pump pick up (pics below). It was only one piece and there was nothing else visible in the engine, which is currently assembled. Also, There is a bend(?) on my girdle. Is this supposed to be like this? Im going to talk to the machinist tomorrow, but I was wondering do I need to resurface my block if I am going to run a MLS. If so, what headgasket can I run if I do not resurface it. Also, should I just stop f***ing around and build a 6 bolt block rather than my stock 7bolt block? Let me know what you guys think.
Sorry about the pics, the flash wasn't working correctly when I took them.


Block pics.
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Bump in girdle
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Piece of metal shaving.
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Okay, so today me and a buddy pulled apart the motor of my 2g auto. This is my first time tearing apart the motor. I was planning on building/ porting my head and leaving the stock bottom end on the car. There is a couple of issues we came across. I found that I have coolant in the oil. The headgasket had no cracks or splits. Could it possibly have lifted? I also found a small curled up piece of metal on the oil pump pick up (pics below). It was only one piece and there was nothing else visible in the engine, which is currently assembled. Also, There is a bend(?) on my girdle. Is this supposed to be like this? Im going to talk to the machinist tomorrow, but I was wondering do I need to resurface my block if I am going to run a MLS. If so, what headgasket can I run if I do not resurface it. Also, should I just stop f***ing around and build a 6 bolt block rather than my stock 7bolt block? Let me know what you guys think.
Sorry about the pics, the flash wasn't working correctly when I took them.


""
metal curls looks to be a bearing chewed UP .. Cylinders look ok, I would get the Block checked and decked if need be, Cometic has many thicknesses of head gasket , 6bolt vs. 7 bolt is more about your ultimate power goals for MOst a 7 bolt is fine :)
 
i can still see the cross hatching in your cyliders, that a good thing, how many miles were on the motor?
 
metal curls looks to be a bearing chewed UP .. Cylinders look ok, I would get the Block checked and decked if need be, Cometic has many thicknesses of head gasket , 6bolt vs. 7 bolt is more about your ultimate power goals for MOst a 7 bolt is fine :)
Its not like there are a ton of shavings. There was 1 metal shaving so Im pretty sure nothing is 'chewed up'. Im not a big dyno person, but I want to run 10's on a stock bottom end.
you can build a good 7 bolt, its up to you or do a 6 bolt its a bit of work.
A built motor is a built motor. Im all about the 7 bolts but Ill build a 6 bolt if I need to.
i can still see the cross hatching in your cyliders, that a good thing, how many miles were on the motor?
Thanks. The car and motor have 53k on them.
 
the cylinders look good from the pic, how was the oil pressure before you pulled it. As for the head gasket i run a mls mitsu with a o-ringed head and i didnt deck the block, motor sees 25-27psi every day with no problems with a 2.3 and 8.8:1 comp ratio. The metal looks like a bearing shaving, you could be lucky and have it be a balance shaft bearing, as for the antifreeze in the oil, the only way that gets in is the head, but oil can get into antifreeze alot of was because oil pressure is higher then coolant pressure
 
the cylinders look good from the pic, how was the oil pressure before you pulled it. As for the head gasket i run a mls mitsu with a o-ringed head and i didnt deck the block, motor sees 25-27psi every day with no problems with a 2.3 and 8.8:1 comp ratio. The metal looks like a bearing shaving, you could be lucky and have it be a balance shaft bearing, as for the antifreeze in the oil, the only way that gets in is the head, but oil can get into antifreeze alot of was because oil pressure is higher then coolant pressure

Oil pressure was normal before I pulled the motor, everything what just how it was supposed to be. The coolant was in the oil, there was no oil in the coolant. My headgasket was fine, there was no cracks or rips. There is a coolant line running to the OFH, could it have leaked threw there?
 
i was thinking of the oil cooler but its not likely because oil pressure is just about always greater then coolant pressure, so if there was a leak in the oil cooler you would see oil in the coolant.
 
i was thinking of the oil cooler but its not likely because oil pressure is just about always greater then coolant pressure, so if there was a leak in the oil cooler you would see oil in the coolant.
So, it would have to be from the head? If there was no cracks, then it lifted, right?
Danny if you want to stay with the 7 bolt I suggest the mbcad kit, some think it's a crankwalk fix.
Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowel (MBCAD) Kit
Ive seen these before. Honestly, Im not too worried about crank walk. Its a 98 and auto. These would be good insurance though. I kinda just want to throw the motor back in, 100% stock pistons rods etc, and run it. I have to talk to Bill today to see if he still rebuilds 7 bolts. I still waiting for these damn springs to come in!
 
the metal shaving needs to be looked into more, I would not be sure it was from a bearing.
Most all the time a bearing failure leaves a flake not a shaving

if you want to run a MLS the block has to be glass smooth along with the head.

do not let the shop belt surface your head/block

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

both surfaces need to look like this..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

all so read thu this it is wretten by DSM wiseman BigWoo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html
 
Danny if you want to stay with the 7 bolt I suggest the mbcad kit, some think it's a crankwalk fix.
Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowel (MBCAD) Kit

keep in mind there is a good chance you will need to bore the holes out for those pins, and after u need to align hone the mains. I personally don't know why it happens, but I had a 7 bolt last 145k in my 97.. But I would still lean twards a 6 bolt.

Cheers,
 
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