Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

[eric489]

All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.


I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.

 

[Narish Do Urden]

I don't think he would be able to rev it up if it was crankwalked so please don't just go and jump on that Bandwagon and give people misinformation.

How was it misinformation? I posted my comment out of experience, how many have you heard "walk?"
Not very many I assume. Mine made the same noise 3k+ on rev, when local DSMer shop around here heard it over the phone, it's pretty much confirmed ((3D Motorsports)). It's a distinct noise and you don't just forget what it sounds like.

I didn't say "Crankwalked sounds like," as some random information. Again personal experience leads to me believe it's crank walked, or needs to be checked, which the second video posted it is check.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Pull the rod caps, bearings, and move the crank. Don't let the Rods hit the crank. Check the journal for gouges or scratches. Run your fingernail lightly across/all the way around the journal. If you feel nothing and see nothing then great. Could even pull the old trick of grabbing a leather boot lace and running it around the journal in the direction that the engine rotates just to be sure. If your fingernail catches on anything - that's bad news.

At any rate, if you see no shavings, verify the condition of the crank journals, and ensure that they are not out of round - hand pump some oil through the system. Do this a few times just to be sure. Replace the rod bearings, torque the caps to spec (Don't get them out of order, mind you) and go about your day. A lot of times if you catch a bad rod bearing soon enough you will encounter no damage to the crank, rods, and have minimal contamination in the oil. Where people mess up in this situation is they don't do what they can to free the engine of contaminants and end up getting those same shavings right back in the bearings. The key is to flush-flush-flush the engine with good, thick oil. Doesn't have to be expensive, just thick.

 

[Nando15v89]

In order to do all this do I gotta pull out the engine or can I just work with it still on? If so how would I go about doing it that way

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

My method - you can do it with the engine in just as it sits. From your video it looks like you're good to go.

Pull the rod caps, number/mark them, and inspect the bearings and crank journals. Post pictures. DO NOT mix up the rod caps. They go on exactly as they came off.

 

[Nando15v89]

So I could inspect the crankshaft without pulling it off I just didn't wanna pull off the crank pulley so I wouldn't have to mess with timing or the belt

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

So I could inspect the crankshaft without pulling it off I just didn't wanna pull off the crank pulley so I wouldn't have to mess with timing or the belt

Yes. It's extremely easy to inspect the crank with it in the car. Just use a breaker bar to rotate the crank by hand while you're down there. Easier to do with the spark plugs out. It's a 1/2 fitment on the crank pulley itself. No need to remove anything more than what you currently have removed and the rod caps.

 

[Nando15v89]

Cool imma do all this tomorrow and keep u guys posted where do u guys recommend I order the bearings from

 

[hypergenesis]

How was it misinformation? I posted my comment out of experience, how many have you heard "walk?"
Not very many I assume. Mine made the same noise 3k+ on rev, when local DSMer shop around here heard it over the phone, it's pretty much confirmed ((3D Motorsports)). It's a distinct noise and you don't just forget what it sounds like.

I didn't say "Crankwalked sounds like," as some random information. Again personal experience leads to me believe it's crank walked, or needs to be checked, which the second video posted it is check.

Coming to a conclusion without any means of supporting evidence = misinformation to me, we need to at least know if there's play in the crank before jumping to that conclusion. Its also a 98-99 block so its really unlikely that it would crank walk as compared to the 95-96 blocks

 

[jayson427]

Get some clevite or acl bearings you can find them alot of places

 

[Mykill2GB]

Hhey hyper genesis what about the 97 blocks i have similar knock and issues

 

[Avgrunn7]

Ok, sooo I looked around on the forums and can't find exact issues.
So this is what I know about my car and issues it pertains to:
I have a 95 Mitsubishi GST trim
The engine was swapped for a 1g turbo
In theory engine only has 67k miles on it and it looks clean ( not a dummy )

So I'll start from start to running problem
First: occasionally, when first starting my car cold and sometimes after a hour cool down, she'll start and idle out, if I rev up and put her in gear and drive off she won't die, otherwise I gotta rev for a bit. My theory is my compression is off.
Doesn't happen all the time, I'd say maybe 35% of the time I cold start usually in mornings and cold days (with semi warm start)

Second:I've noticed while driving, while cruising in 5th around 55-63 mph and at 2500-3000 rpm my engine will rattle and knock a bit. It doesn't happen all the time but is becoming more frequent. Also when in the city driving and cruising at same RPM range in 3rd and 4th it'll do it too. This happens in these 3 gears about 30% of the time.

Maybe both problems are related maybe not, just bought the car from a guy who knows very little about the car just had the money to fix it up.
So any advice???

 

[DSM1G90]

Welcome to the forums .. and needing help is always welcomed here.

Not a "1G turbo", but a 6 bolt motor was installed.. You have a 2G vehicle being a 1995 model.

Nothing wrong with the motor, but sounds like a temp sensor is acting up on you.

Checked oil levels? "Rattling and knocking " doesn't sound good at all.

Did you take it for a spin before purchase? For, with the previous owner "not" knowing anything on what he has, really throws up a red flag that he was possibly wanting to rid of it for a quick deal.

 

[Arthris]

Hard to say if I just had the same issue or not. Would describe it almost the same but my probly was the coil pack arcing to the intake due to close proximity. I have unbolted the coil pack and have layed it next to the intake with success as of now. My issue is that there are two small covers that cover the 12V and the ground on the coil and its missing. It acts as a insulate between the ground side(ie) secondary windings. And from the proximity between the coil and manifold it was arcing to it. It worth a shot to try to see if that's it. It would only miss here and there and sometimes a good bit and disappear.

 

[Nando15v89]

So I removed my rods and my crank has horrible grooves in it I think I need I need a new one for sure I don't think they can polish them out there to deep I wanna get the bottom half rebuilt what do I need to get to get this done.... Do I gotta get new rods or just a new crank and bearings pistons n rings



The heads were just rebuilt on it I just gotta do the bottom end

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

So I removed my rods and my crank has horrible grooves in it I think I need I need a new one for sure I don't think they can polish them out there to deep I wanna get the bottom half rebuilt what do I need to get to get this done.... Do I gotta get new rods or just a new crank and bearings pistons n rings



The heads were just rebuilt on it I just gotta do the bottom end

After ripping the block apart, buying new equipment, seals, bearings, etc - you're looking at a pretty penny. I'd suggest that if you're on a budget to find a stock bottom end from a part out that's in good condition. Otherwise you're looking at a new crank, having a machine shop check your rods to ensure they are not out of round which - depending on the force they received, likely are. A hone, new rings, depending on rods you may need rods, main bearings, rod bearings, all components for a timing job since you'll be (most likely if you plan to do it the easiest way) pulling the engine and should get it out of the way, oil pump, water pump, engine fluids, trans fluids, head gasket, new head bolts/studs if you don't already have studs - and if they are 7 bolt studs then most likely new ones anyway : The list goes on but mostly gaskets here and there.

So... the Pros? You get to do it all yourself. Upgrade as you go. Know the work was done, what was done, etc.
Cons? Going to be digging at your wallet for a bit.

Sorry to hear about your crank. I got antsy and dropped my pan last night to find 180k bearings just starting to show their age with absolutely no wear on the crank so I'll be fitting in some TriMetal ACLs in the next day or so and buttoning her back up. Just goes to show you - keep an eye on the serious components. What drove me to check mine was this thread, actually.

 

[Nando15v89]

Yea I just got the car two months ago been trying to get it running little by little but then I ran into this problem now I feel the price I got the car wasn't a good deal anymore since I'm wasting more into fixing the car then what I paid but I got to do what needs to be done

Imma try n find a stock bottom first ### I'm on a tight budget being a family man so its hard but I gotta do it

 

[jayson427]

there was just a thread on here the other day of someone asking about a reman crank and another user posted his reman crank he bought which was at a really good price ill see if i can find it.

since the car is down i would take the motor apart and post up some pics of your crank or take it to a machine shop. you never know they might be able to cut it out.

 

[Nando15v89]

Cool thanks let me know if u find it ill try n grab some pics tomorrow while the suns out

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Yea I just got the car two months ago been trying to get it running little by little but then I ran into this problem now I feel the price I got the car wasn't a good deal anymore since I'm wasting more into fixing the car then what I paid but I got to do what needs to be done

Imma try n find a stock bottom first ### I'm on a tight budget being a family man so its hard but I gotta do it

I can understand entirely. You win some, you lose some.

If it's any consolation - the last few complete shortblocks I've purchased have been under $200.

 

[Nando15v89]

Now if I can find a deal like that I will be happy but I guess I gotta be patient and see what I find

 

[JusMX141]

Crankwalked sounds like

Please tell me you've recently heard a crankwalked 4G63 running to compare the sound as I sit here and fight the urge to neg-rep this post into the next century.

So I removed my rods and my crank has horrible grooves in it I think I need I need a new one for sure I don't think they can polish them out there to deep I wanna get the bottom half rebuilt what do I need to get to get this done.... Do I gotta get new rods or just a new crank and bearings pistons n rings

Depends if you marked the rod caps as you removed them from each corresponding rod. If you mixed up the caps, you may want to start searching for a set of replacement rods and pistons as you can easily spend as much as a good set of used rods having a machine shop re-align all four rod caps assuming the rods themselves didn't take on any damage.

 

[Avgrunn7]

Thanks,

I checked oil, added oil treatment too. It still does it but not as much.
I know it was a red flag when buying the car, however I did get it for less than half his asking price.

And to clarify its not knocking its just kinda shaking making the engine bay knock and rattle. But only when has is applied. Not once I let off the throttle, if I down shift it'll stop. It's clear the car dislike it.

 

[Mykill2GB]

i have a nice knock on the lower end its definately the connecting rod i am going to be taking my pan off in the morning to inspect the crank and bearings but what i would like to know is a trusted brand of rod bearings i have looked and found far to many and id just like to know if any of you guys have replaced yours what kind did you use or atleast what ones to stay away from thanks.

 

[drewbuddy]

you definately need to do a compression test, thats the first thing i would do especially if you suspect compression issues. maybe a leak down test. is it smoking under boost? I ask cause i had same starting issues, on first start of day then was good. only 5 psi in #2 ended up piston lands had separated

 

[GODofWARREN]

Heard an odd noise coming home today and checked out the forums, a little searching brought me to rod knock, some scary shit. I checked my dipstick, no metal shavings, good sign. Heres the video i took, its basically audio only do to it being dark, need someone to say it isnt so i can sleep tonight. The sketchy sound is at around 38 seconds in the video.


Heres the link 1997 Tsi Rod Knock? - YouTube

Any feedback is greatly appreciated, Thanks