Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

[eric489]

All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.


I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.

 

[DSM1G90]

I can push down the timing belt about 3/4 of an inch and the intake cam spins when I do. It actually moves almost 1 whole tooth. The Exhaust cam stays put though.. Any ideas?

Why would it not move the EXH when the tensioner set is on the INT side of the belt- what you're seeing is the tension pulley doing it's thing ... it's normal for that to happen.

You're gonna have to take it apart to see what is what before we can help farther - no guesswork is allowed since it's not factual.

 

[93TSiAWD4blt]

ok, the harmonic balancer is fine. I've looked at it a few times now even put a socket on it and tugged, it's tight, so it's something to do with the BS or TB. Now when I said I can move the belt, I mean with little force it moves down, so is that still telling me that the tensioner is fine?

 

[92AWDHX40]

To be sure pull it off replace it and timing components if your ever unsure.

 

[Infamous33]

You should NEVER be able to compress the tensioner by hand, even with the help of the belt.
Take the covers off and move the belt, if you see the tensioner arm moving... it has totally failed
Good time to freshen up everything in there

 

[Colt4G63 also]

You need to take the timing covers off and see what's going on in there. Whatever you do, don't start the engine again until it's fixed.

 

[spritian]

So I've recently been overhauling my tires/suspension/brakes... Got new tires - didn't hear noise, but today I just put on my new tokico illuminas... Took it out for a test drive, and I get this whooshing sound from the drivers side wheel well. I know my driver side axle/cv boot is tore the f up, but still waiting for the axles to arrive... I don't think that's the sound though, to me it sounds like my brake disc might be warped, and since the new suspension, it's causing it to rub odd. Ive got new brakes on order as well, just wanted to see what you all thought the noise might be... Axle, brakes, or control arm related... (I also installed energy suspension bushings...)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHbn8yQi-Es&sns=em

 

[spritian]

PS. first few seconds of the vid are loud with wind noise as I had my phone out the window... But you can hear the sound clearly towards the end.

 

[turbodude]

Yeah, cant really hear anything but near the end... Sounds like a rotational noise for sure. It does possibly sound like it is being produced by the rotors or simply just uneven wear of the brake pads which is causing the rotational noise on the rotor? Hard to say without seeing/hearing in person

 

[Tyeler18]

Sounds like a possible seized/seizing caliper. Dust shields could be rubbing, wear indicator could have started to rub. Jack that side of the car up and spin the wheel by hand listening for the noise. It sounds brake related to me.

 

[preludeachris]

It doesn't sound like a bearing...to me it sound like the thin metal break dust shield they are easy to bend and can make a lot of noise if you didn't notice you bent them.....other wise check the breaks and suspension. When you jack it up grab the wheel with both hands on each side of the tire move it back and forth and again with the top and bottom of the wheel check for your noise... other than that.... spin it like Tyler18 said.

 

[spritian]

You guys hit it on the head... It was the dust shield!!! Used a mallet on it slightly and bam noise gone! Thanks

 

[preludeachris]

sweet ! Don't you just love it when its something easy like that?

 

[GSLENK]

on to my next question, how does this come to happen.

usually by lack of oil. think about it: there are holes that lube one side of the bearing. if there is no lube, there will equal friction on the rod and crank journal sides, causing bearing spinning, which will distort the rod and or crank. simple.

Not to say you did it, because the effects of neglect can show their ugly heads after the evil has been done.

OR someone just swapped a pair of $5 bearings into your damaged rod before you bought it, and now they just wore out again. (which will happen again and again till a rebuild)

Either 1 be a scumbag and repeat the cycle, OR 2 live and learn.

 

[mb3000]

on to my next question, how does this come to happen.

When is the last time you changed your oil?

 

[CrawlinZX14]

As stated above, pull the boot off and ground a spark plug. Then run the car. If you find that the noise stops on one particular cylinder, then u know what the problem is. But for god sake, stop revving the car from inside the drivers compartment while trying to show whats going on. If you have to add throttle just rotate it by hand at the throttle body. You likely have a spun bearing and the more you rev it the more damage your doing. That "tapping" sound is your crank and rod not being tight with one another anymore and metal getting into your oiling system as the oil journal is likely passing over pieces of metal it should not. I would venture to bet that if you drain your oil, and cut open your oil filter, you will find a ton of metal dust in your oil. It sucks when it happens and it will never get any better. I had an issue like that on a na supra about 3 years ago. Ran it till it finally let go and gave me an excuse to swap in a GTE motor after it threw the rod out the side of the block. My rod seized to the crank, but I honestly didnt care, it was an NA motor in a supra.

 

[Sean99RS]

So in lieu of trying to get a poor audio recording of the sound i decided to get a stethoscope and poke around. The sound was not top end. I figured it was rod knock, so i took it to my buddy who's an ASE certified mechanic. He checked the car over and got back to me with the bad news. Wrist pin is going. So instead of scrapping the car, im going to try and find an older Lancer (2000-2003) to drive daily and put her up in the garage and tear the motor down. Which is good, my father and i have been wanting a project car for a while and this will give us the opportunity. Still debating on bigger pistons or bigger rings. Once i get started i'll post pics throughout the process.

 

[jason91dsm]

You can also pull the valve cover and check your lifters and rockers.

 

[bryanwheat]

That definetly sounds like a rod bearing. Drain the oil and look for copper debris in it.

 

[Blindmouse]

That definetly sounds like a rod bearing. Drain the oil and look for copper debris in it.

Balance shaft bearing i think..

 

[turbotalon31]

Is the car automatic or stick? If its auto i could be torque converter bolts worked loose

 

[obsidian]

Oh god that sounds horrible. Drain the oil and check what you drain for metal shavings.

 

[Blindmouse]

.. and pull down the oil pan. then you can check what shaft or rod's bearing gone..

 

[Snot Rocket]

You could just cut open your oil filter and look for shavings.
It is real hard to tell from the video. But as suggested if it is a auto. That is what loose torque converter bolts sound like.

 

[obsidian]

Any update on this?

 

[eligst21]

Sounds like a spun rod bearing. Pull the oil pan like everyone said and post some results with pictures.