Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

[eric489]

All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.


I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.

 

[freshlane]

How does the shift knob feel when the problem happens? Vibration?

 

[whiteflash]

How does the shift knob feel when the problem happens? Vibration?

i don't know, ill check next time it does it.

 

[whiteflash]

sorry to bring up an old post but its happening again. the first time it went away as quick as it started, but its doing it again. Shifter feels fine. It still boosts fine and everything, just making a grinding noise. I'm lost.

 

[psychbiker1966]

I recently had a problem with an oil leak which seemed to cause an engine misfire cel. Oil was surrounding my plug.I redid the valve cover gasket and topped up the oil ..it was a quart low. Now I've noticed a loud engine noise starting at 3000 rpm and up... sorta like If the car had vtech transition but the power up top has gone off.Cel came back on again... The boost gauge is showing good boost 16lbs and drops to 11 at 6000rpm.. but the car is not making power.The noise is quite disconcerting as it was not there last week. The car has only 47,000 miles and its mostly stock. I am the second owner ...had it 3 months. I am praying its not crankwalk .. I'm trying to stay positive. I guess this weekend I know what I'll be doing...But where to start?? No filings noted in the oil at least!!

 

[pitbull419]

What kind of noise?
You need to be more specific.

 

[Jst4Cyl]

I'd say your gut feeling is right btw it sounds. My prayers are with you

This is just the DSM Gods way of telling you it's time to upgrade.

Hope this can be of some help. Here is another link that maybe you can use. Good luck and take pics. Do it right once instead of over and over again.

 

[psychbiker1966]

It sounds almost like knocking that you experience when you need higher octane gas!! But more severe.... It idles a little rough as well..Maybe the timing belt slipped...

 

[TunaTalon]

Higher boost pressure requires higher ignition voltage to fire the spark across the gap.

1. Fouled plugs may work ok at low boost and misfire when on boost.

Read your plugs as described in:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.asp

2. The oil in your spark plug wells could have caused damage to the spark plug wires.
From the FAQ on http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm:
"On late model multi-valve engines with spark plugs situated in deep un-drained holes, the life of wire assemblies is limited to that of the extended spark plug connectors fitted to the spark plug wires used on these engines. In turn, the life of the spark plug connectors relies entirely on the ability of the vehicle owner to keep excess moisture and engine oil out of the holes so as not to damage the connectors."
Check your spark plug wires for arc damage as described in the Magnecor technical data.

 

[psychbiker1966]

I have new wires that are I think 10.5 mm thick ...but hey I'll check it out..

Thanks

 

[Mitzi99]

I am completely confused by this. I attempted to look this up using search methods. I found results but there was a large amount of mechanical lingo in the posts which simply left me even more confused. I am NOT mechanically inclined at all. I just want to point that out right off, at the risk of being insulted of course.

My 99 Eclipse GS, 2.0L, DOHC, NON turbo has developed a sound. I have taken it to about 20 different mechanics. I have heard wide variety of explanations but the 2 most common are that I have a problem in my "top half" most likely with the "Cam" OR I have a problem with in the "lower half" and is most likely the "number 1 rod bearing". Again, I am mechanically stupid, therefore I don't know either way and am not even all that sure that I understand what I am being told.

But anyway, let me tell you guys and gals about the knock. Sometimes I hear it very faintly when I first start my car, but it immediately goes away. Other than that, the only time i ever hear it is if my car exceeds 2,500-3,000 RPMs but only at low speeds. (Under 45ish) I can however exceed 3,000 RPM's without hearing the knocking sound as long as I am traveling at 60 mph or more. I haven't really pushed it when going that fast because I am not sure of the consequences. I have just noticed that I can achieve higher RPM's without the knocking at higher speeds.

The actual sound is makes is hard to describe. Its almost like a woodpecker inside my engine or something. Something else odd, is that there is not a lot of build up to the noise. What I mean by that is this: At lower RPM's I cannot hear anything. At all. Then at around 3,000, its knock knock knock! Its kinda loud RIGHT away. And this is true even with the hood popped and your head under their listening. Its either quite or loud. I also noticed just now (I had to go outside and listen to accurately describe it) that it does seem to get louder and faster as the RPM's climb. Another thing is that it is REALLY hard to make that sound when the car is cool. So at first I can reach RPM's easily exceeding 4,000 when I start my car in the morning. But once it heats up, not a chance.

So...What do you guys think about that sound? (I am sorry if I have done a poor job at giving information and I am willing to try again if need be)

If it truly is a rod, which as I understand it is worst case scenario, what do I do from there? New motor? Or just repair mine? I am leaning towards repairing this one, simply because I KNOW this motor. A salvage motor could potentially be just buying another problem. I know I cannot afford a new one. They are like 3k'ish from Auto Zone. If I repair this motor what parts do I need?

As you can see, I am clueless and in need of expert knowledge, advice, and opinions.

Thanks in Advance,
Steve

 

[psychbiker1966]

Its the weekend and now I finally have time to check the noise problem..After hrs of research "while at work" I am now hopeful that its not crankwalk. IN MY FAVOR..................

#1 it is a 1998 GST that the previous owner had left stock ....97
models are more than twice as likely to have crankwalk,the owner was a bit conservative and only out 44,000 miles on her..
#2 It is an automatic!! Only 15 % of CW cases are autos...GOOD!!

#3 On idle it is not noisy only when rpms get over about 3000...hmm

I think the noise may have something to do with my balance shaft since it kinda matches up with what happens when you remove it...(Slight vibration at idle and noise at 3-4k present)
Or there is something causing a misfire and cel that also causes the timing to retard..and the motor to lose power at high rpms...At anyrate its time to get the hands dirty tomorrow am!!

 

[turbolover10]

Sounds like it could be a balance shaft bearing failure, I'm actually experiencing the same thing with pretty much the same symptoms. I pulled the oil pan and there wasn't any metal shavings. I wiggled the rods to see if one of the rods seems like they had more play then the other, still nothing. I pulled one of the rod caps off and it didn't look too bad to me but this is my first time inspecting bearings, there were little scratches but nothing I could really feel while running my nail along the surface??? Heres a pic, "not trying to jack your thread, just didn't see the point in making a new one when I came across this."

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Comparing it to the pic in this thread,http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/203645-spun-rod-bearing-questions.html
it doesn't look like the bearing is bad??? Any Ideas, I'm going to pull the other three caps tomorrow to make sure their not suverly scored...


Almost forgot heres a video clip, does yours sound like its knocking this bad biker??

ImageShack - Hosting :: pa230210pd7.flv

 

[just2asian]

Well your situation to me definitely sound like a rod bearing on its way out. My buddies car spun a bearing. When his went, at idle you could not hear the knocking at all, but as soon as you rev the car it started to knock.

If it is the rod bearing, you're most likely going to have to pull the motor, strip it down, get it cleaned, remachined, and have all the clearances checked, since you say you are not mechanically inclined. I'm going to assume you are not oging to be doing your own work either. If you're going to do the bottom end then you might as well do the head as well as a new clutch and etc... So if it is the rod knocking, then you're going to be looking at a hefty bill. Have a mechanic stethescope it and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from.

 

[turbolover10]

+1 on the stethascope!
My car is currently knocking with similar symptoms from what your describing.
A quick way that you can check to see if its a certain cylinder knocking is to, pull the wires one by one and if you notice the knocking stop then you found your problem cylinder...

Another thing, you can drain your oil and strain it for metal shavings or take it a step further and drop your oil pan and see what you find.

If it was something in the head you would probably be able to see it by pulling the valve cover off and inspecting it. I know you say your not mechanically inclined but it doesn't take a genius to notice when somethings broken.

 

[psychbiker1966]

I would say that it does not rattle that much. I didn't get a chance to do anything on the car today..I made a video of the noise with my phone but it sucked. A video with my wifes camera was better but the file is too big to post here!!

 

[Mitzi99]

Yea. Several of the people who have listened used a stethoscope.
And you said i can "pull the wires"? You mean my spark plug wires? Wouldn't that cause other noises and sounds? Is it safe? If so, ill do it tonight. I always thought if i pulled one of those the motor would die.

I have already strained the oil. No metal shavings to be found. I will look again next time i change it. Which will be soon. I seem to be losing oil.
I don't know how to pull the "oil pan" or even where to find it.

Valve cover? Im willing to try...but what is it?

Well your situation to me definitely sound like a rod bearing on its way out. My buddies car spun a bearing. When his went, at idle you could not hear the knocking at all, but as soon as you rev the car it started to knock.

If it is the rod bearing, you're most likely going to have to pull the motor, strip it down, get it cleaned, remachined, and have all the clearances checked, since you say you are not mechanically inclined. I'm going to assume you are not oging to be doing your own work either. If you're going to do the bottom end then you might as well do the head as well as a new clutch and etc... So if it is the rod knocking, then you're going to be looking at a hefty bill. Have a mechanic stethescope it and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from.

If it is truly a rod bearing, which i understand to be pretty damn bad, then that leaves my option as repairing it or replacing the motor...as i understand.

Well, i dont have 3,000 bucks to spend on a new motor....and I don't think im willing to take the risk of buying a motor from a junk yard only to find MORE problems with it...

So i guess my only remaining option is to repair this engine...ok..so what do i need to buy to do that?

 

[SOADweskey]

Since it seems that you would have to pay someone to fix it no matter what it is then you are looking at a rather large bill.

I'm just going to throw it out there that you may want to consider moving on from this car and perhaps finding yourself a nice turbo Eclipse or Talon if your situation allows. Sonce either way you will have to part with allot of money.

 

[Mitzi99]

I have friends who will probably do the work for me for a reasonable price...One of them was actually willing to pull the motor and put the new one in for me (after i bought it of course) for only 500 bucks.

I am assuming that he wouldnt charge too much more if i just repair this one.

But before I talk to him about it, what parts would i need and where would i find them?

 

[psychbiker1966]

TurboLover..


I have noticed that it sounds very similar to your sound but slightly less intense and at higher rpms. Today it was not rattling hardly at all... till I drove it for a few minutes then Presto it got worse. It seems to be worse when the engine warms up a bit...Have you figured out if its the balance shaft yet ?? I am about ready to take it to the dealer!!

 

[TAndrus]

I bought my car not too long ago and one thing I noticed after getting it back home and driving it some that there was a tick. I've read a bunch about lifter ticks, but I'm not sure if that's it. Today I actually heard 2 separate ticks so I took the video, not sure what they are though. I've got 2 videos. In the first one it's just the one tick, the second video both ticks are going. Please don't watch too closely as the camera moves a lot. I was trying to find the sound.

First video:: Louder tick, more constant. Doesn't go away really.
Video of Car tick


Second video:: Smaller, quicker tick. Comes and goes.
Video of Car tick 2

Thanks for your help.

 

[CrazyM]

Either lifter tick, or your valve tapping would be my guess??

How's your timing set?

 

[turboglenn]

Either lifter tick, or your valve tapping would be my guess??

How's your timing set?

+10000

Run some seafoam through the motor, then drive it 15 minutes later to get carbon out of the combustion chambers. Then add some more to your oil, drive for an hour and change the oil. It should help those clackety lifters a lot. I know it did on mine BIG TIME!!

 

[sL98-Tsi]

Have you check your oil?

 

[TAndrus]

Either lifter tick, or your valve tapping would be my guess??

How's your timing set?

I'm a noob, please explain what you mean by, "How's your timing set?"

 

[TAndrus]

+10000

Run some seafoam through the motor, then drive it 15 minutes later to get carbon out of the combustion chambers. Then add some more to your oil, drive for an hour and change the oil. It should help those clackety lifters a lot. I know it did on mine BIG TIME!!

I've got a can in the garage. I'm thinking of doing it pretty soon. Just going to wait till it's closer to oil change time. Did you just suck some up through your BOV vacuum line?