The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i hope your not just talking about the famous lifter "tick" that nearly everyone with stock lifters has... my question is if you took the time to rebuild the head with a 3 angle valve job and all, why didnt you invest in some revised lifters? my head was constand tap tap tap tap tap, once i rebuilt my head i bought a set of revised lifters from slowboyracing and the noise disapeared. ( the ticking doesnt mean they are bad per say... but depending on how bad it is, i would replace them... remove the valve cover take out the cams and rockers and just replace the lifters, this can be done in one day )
 
a t25 will start to lose ground at higher rpms, its normal. Shifting into second is notchy for a lot of our cars but definitely worth checking out, if you can't find anything wrong switch to a high quality transmission fluid (b&m or royal purple) which will help the shifts go a little smoother. As far as the grinding noise, check if there is anything really close to the transmission such as intercooler pipes if you can't find anything then we might have to consider some real transmission problems.
 
if the noise goes away when you dip the clutch then sad to say it is the tranny you should check the condition of the fluid if there is any in there
 
Oh man..... I'm glad this is my project car and I wanted to change over every thing anyway..... the belt is a little worn but not to bad. But I drove it for about half hour today and I think my tranny is done it was going soothly then on the highway it popped out of gear a started grinding like crazy. luckly I was close to my mom's house so I left it there. Looks like I gonna start taking it apart sooner then I wanted to oh well at least I can do things the right ### now.


My goal is around 400whp, do you guys have any suggestions on trannys, fly wheels, and clutches???
 
i crank the car and the cel comes on then I cut the motor off and I hear a clicking noise that clicks constantly from the engine bay. it sounds like the a spark plug is going off but its not because I pulled all of the plug wires out. the sound comes from around the valve cover. I tried to read the cel codes but it doesnt work. could the ecu be bad?
 
oh. maybe I wasn't even connected yet. I feel really stupid. how do you know when its connected to the ecu? of course I did plug in the cord into the computer and diagnostic port. I know how to get to the trouble codes Ill try that in a little bit. ok, im right in front of the car with the computer and the dsmlink and everything. how do I connect to the ecu? everything is plugged in.

I cant change to communication port for some reason.

ok. I deleted the dsmlink program and reinstalled it and now I can change the communication port. I still can get a connection though.

i dont have the red power wire installed yet could that be my problem?
 
It's normal that it does it but there is a difference in sound between a working ISC and a non-working one.
You can measure the coil resistance, and pull it from the TB and watch it move to see if it's stepping or just buzzing. Since the ECU is part of the system it's harder to point the finger at the ISC when it doesn't work and the coils are good.
 
the ISC does buzz when I insert the key. I measure the resistance on another ISC and the coils are good in it. Im confused on the problem though, because I installed the other ecu and cranked it for a little while, and it didnt throw a cel. Im probably going to install the 510 cc injectors instead of changing the settings threw the dsmlink. I think i cant get in contact with the ecu because I dont have the red wire installed and I dont have the instructions to install it.
 
Im confused on the problem though, because I installed the other ecu and cranked it for a little while, and it didnt throw a cel.

I'm confused too, but more by what you are trying to say.

It's normal and a sign that the ECU is working for the CEL to turn on for 5 seconds when you first turn the ignition on. This is part of the bulb check process that tells the operator that none of the warning light are burned out.

If the CEL stays on or doesn't go on you have a problem.

The very early 1G DSMLink cables had a power wire that needed to be connected to the fuse box to a circuit that had switched 12v. The later cables don't need a power connection.
 
I have the 2.5 version do I need to install the wire then? The problem is that the car threw a cel, so I tried to read the codes and when I did the cel would just stay on, so I though that must be the code number 1 which is the ecu. So I change the ecu with an ecu with the dsmlink that is set for 510 cc injectors. so when I crank it, it obviously runs crappy but it didnt throw a cel. but maybe I didnt run it long enough. Im just going to put the right injectors in and see if it throws a cel or not.

after driving it around with the 510s and ecu for them it doesnt throw a cel. The car is slow though. Maybe something to do with just installing the fuelab fpr. I will check the o2 sensor to see if it ran rich or not. hopefully exhaust stuck to the o2 sensor. my brother is telling me its because I put the bigger injectors in and they arent designed for the 14b but a 16g. thats bull crap if Im not mistaken. correct me if im wrong.
 
Check your EGR and Vapor Recovery solenoids as well.

I cleaned the EGR valve out before I installed it, I will check the solenoids. After installing the ecu and injectors for that ecu, I drove it for 10 minutes and no cel. I warmed it up and then check to see if it was fast. Its really slow. Then I did a boost leak test with soapy water and found the biss screw was leaking air, and one clamp was not tightened near the TB. I will test drive it again today and see how it runs.
 
I am getting a loud clicking from the engine bay when the a/c is turned on, does anyone know what it could be??
 
I will be going to look at a 97 eclipse gst today.The owner says it has been sitting for about 2 years because he had other projects to work on.He said sometimes the car makes a tapping noise but there is no smell or smoke but he said he started it up again and drove it around the block but it didnt do it that time (make the noise ).Its also a automatic and even though I love my manuals I was told that a auto is better then a manual.Is that true?



Btw-can anybody tell me what all to look at before I buy this car or any dsm car.Thanks for all your help
 
First of all:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/3361-auto-5-speed.html


Second of all, I thought I would just throw this in:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...0-common-mistakes-misconceptions-newbies.html



I was also searching for the post on what to look for when buying a dsm. Couldn't find it mate.

But I would suggest check the radiator cap, see if the fluid is clean or if there oil, rust, or some other stuff in there. If there is anything besides radiator fluid and water there is something wrong with the car.

Check all fluids. Check the oil and see what condition is. If you can... pull out the spark plugs and check them out. Also at that point try to even do a compression test, and compare it to what its supposed to be at.

Make sure it runs all well and the tranny is in good condition.

As far as the tapping noise. Make sure its not coming from the over the camshaft. Could be a rod knocking. I would cut out on the deal right then and there since it means it will need a new engine soon enough. Unless its so cheap. Take in mind that usually a engine rebuild is about $700 with stock parts.
Thats all I can think of right now.
 
It could be the lifters tapping, as long as its a relatively quiet tap that is probably the case since the 2g lifters have a bit of a defect in them. If you like you can replace them for about $300 or just drive the car the way it is and it shouldn't cause a problem. If the problem is only there sometimes then its probably the lifters, if you do hear it some time when you are looking at the car try sitting in the drivers seat and if you can still hear the tick don't buy the car.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top