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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
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i have the same problem, its your hydraulic tensioner. it sounds like a loud ticking noise right?

i think im having the same problem you are. when i start my car i dont hear to much but then a few seconds later a loud ticking comes. it sounds like its in the head but i cant pin point. i removed the motor mount but still cant find out where its coming from.
 
I'm starting to think my 95 tsi awd A/T with 113k has developed crankwalk, despite how rare that would be.

Theres a quiet tapping noise, almost like a marble being shaken in a small container back and forth quickly. It starts at 1100rpm, and its loudest there, and continues until ~3000rpm. I'm also getting a loud vibration at idle, but only with the brake fully pressed in. Its hard to tell where the sound is coming from, because it only does it sometimes, and usually only when the car is moving.

Other than that the car drives fine, but the trans has developed a strange shifting behavior where RPMs shoot up to 2000rpm sometimes, like its shifting upward. Shifts are medium-hard, if that matters at all on a A/T. Plus it likes to just rev to about 1500 by itself when I let off the gas now, then it goes back down to idle.

I really need some advice because I don't have the time to research and fix this right now.
 
After replacing a broken timing belt on my 92 talon, It now has a loud raddling/knock when idling under 1500 rpm. If I give it a little gas it goes away. What could be the deal here ? Bent valves ? When the timing belt broke the car was travelling at about 10-15 mph and I put it in neutral and it died. the balance shaft belt and timing belt were trashed.
Could the raddling/knock be from having a dent in the bottom of the oil pan ?
 
most likely a bent valve or your valve lash is not correct. when that happened to me i had a bent valve and just redid the whole head
 
Uhm no? If your timing is off, she'll either run really rough or won't run at all. Next time when you go turn the car on, go outside, and put your hands firmly on the hood. See if that stops the rattling. My hood rattles at idle but goes away when I accelerate.
 
I know it's not the hood because it does it with the hood open. When idling at 1200-1500rpm the engine sounds good, no stumbling, missing or anything like that. It runs and drives good, except sometimes it dies when downshifting. It was dieing when thrown into neutral also. I temporarily fixed the dieing when going into neutral by raising the idle with the BISS screw on the throttle body. I'm scared to drive too fast. I don't want to kill my car.
 
most likely a bent valve or your valve lash is not correct. when that happened to me i had a bent valve and just redid the whole head
DSM's come with hydraulic lifters. No valve lash adjustment is needed, unless it was one of those cars with the H on the hood LOL.
 
ok this may seem weird, I re-did the timing belt procedure following vfaq, but this time i used the timing marks on the outer edges of the cams (right side on intake and left side on exhaust) Now the car runs great and the knocking/rattling noise is almost completely gone. It still does it very slightly when the car idles under 900 rpm. But it's barely noticeable and the car runs like it should now. The sad thing is I'm gonna have to re-do all that and then some, the headgasket has a slight leak. The good news is it didn't overheat.
Strange problems I've had with this car. The guy that had it before me replaced the headgsket along with having the head rebuilt by jackson machine shop. I'm thinking he didn't re-torque the head after going through a few heat cycles.
 
I'm can't pin point what is is, But when I acclerate I hear a grinding noise, sounding like its coming from under the hood. Only when I press the gas in gear though. Rolling or reving it in nutral I don't hear the sound at all. The sound also gets louder at higher rpms and speeds. Also OBD2 picked up a error code for my Manafold Pressure Sensor (if that helps diagnose?). I'm gonna dig into it this weekend but any help or opinions would be helpful seeing how I'm new to these engines. (97 GS-T M/T).

Thanks
 
Yea that was gonna be the first thing I looked at. I just picked up the car about 2 weeks ago so I plan on going through the whole car, cause the person who had it last did some things half way. As far as driving, the turbo doesn't spool as hard after like 5 and a half grand. Also some times shifting into second it grinds a little, (the owner before me chopped it and called it a short shifter) so I'm taking that apart this weekend also. Besides that is drives good and strong.
 
ok guys i just rebuilt my motor in my laser and i finaly got it back to gether and "running" there is a horrible noise comming from my valve cover it sounds like normal valvetrain noise but like five times louder. wtf i checked the cam caps and they are tight but the head has new valves in it and it has a 3 angle valve job and all of the old stuff like lifters and springs were reused. i think the lifters might bo collapsed? what is it and how do i check it?
thanks in advance robert
 
If the lifters are collapsed there should be play in the rocker arms. Or a little bit of space between the rocker arm and cam. If the lifters have no pressure when you push them down then they are collapsed.
 
do i have to take out the cams or is there some trick cause i dont want to have to pull the front of the motor upart to get to the tensioner is there any thing else that would cause this noise/
 
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