Engine Assembly Rebuild in Details

[megadan]

Almost all parts for my stroker are bought. Since it is my first rebuild, I would need help to assemble the motor. I'm starting to get the feeling of the job after many hours of reading but I would need a complete procedure in details and no sparse info like I find in posts. I got a Hayne manual but as I'm building a stroker and I'm eliminating the balancer shaft, the build is starting to get custom and I don't want to take all the part to a shop and tell them to assemble it... I'd like to learn how to do it for future rebuilds.

Here are the parts I got so far (feel free to make comments if I'm missing something):
4g63 non turbo block
6 bolts stroker crank 2.4L
Clevite bearing
Eagle Rods
ARP bolts
Wiseco Pistons .040
Cometic metal head gasket
balancer kit eliminator
Head will stay stock for now

For the tools, I already did 3 engine swap but no engine assembly, so you have an idea of what tools I got.

I know I'm almost asking for a tech article but once I'm done gathering all info needed, I will be please to write a tech article with pics (Including errors I made).

So... Where are we starting once all parts are in hands?

Correct me if I'm wrong:

1- Bring wiseco pistons (for mesurements) and block to machine shop and make them bore and hone, hot tank the block.

2- Assemble pistons and rods together (need to press them?)

3- Compress the ring (with tool) and enter it in cylinder

... Am I on the right track?

 

[JamiesTSI]

Thr eagle rod is a floating pin style rod. You do not need to press the wrist pin in. There will be a cir-clip on either end of the wrist pin to keep the wrist pin from coming out.

 

[megadan]

Ok thanks so one more thing I'll do my own. What is the next step. You can reply even if you have a little advice or only a part from the complete assembly. At the end I'm going to put all that togheter and try to complete this rebuild.

 

[MC23]

I just finished my stroker and i have pretty much that same set-up... When i took my block to the machine shop they installed all of it due to the fact that they need all of that stuff to balance the motor out. They need to do that so they can make the clearances for the rods and all tolerances for the rings and bearings. Also do you have the wiseco stroker pistons if not they will stick out of the block. When taking the block to the machine shop bring: Block, pitons, rods (rings also), bearings, crank, all fasteners, clutch, flywheel, and the timing gears that bolt up to the crank. thats what i did...

 

[megadan]

Hopefully, I got the wiseco stroker pistons. How did it cost you to do the machine shop work and balancing?

Can I do all the clearance work at home? Also I got a torque wrech.

And what is plastiguaging I know it is for taking clearance but how does it work?

 

[MC23]

i spent $950 in machine work alone.... as far as a torque wrench goes you will need a 1/2 inch torque wrench, 3/8 inch torque wrench, and a 1/4 torque wrench. Then just follow torque specs in the haynes manual (when converting "in/lbs" to " ft/lbs " remember to mulitiply by 12). Plastuguaging is where you have a piece of plastic type material that you can get at your local Autozone or Advanced auto. How it works is you need to know what your clearance for you bearings should be, and what you do is you rip a piece of the plastic off and stick it between the bearing and the crank journal and torque the cap down to spec. Then you will un-do the bearing cap and see that the plastic has de-formed (it will flare out). then you will you use the gauge that comes with the plastic and match it up. This is better explained in person. But i didnt have to do all that because the machine had to assemble my stroker for clearance issues and balancing, so that was already taken care of... Trust me you will want a good machine shop to do this, just ask some of your locals im sure they would know of some. Yes you will be spending lots of money, its all love of being an enthusiast.

 

[megadan]

Ouf that expensive. I'd prefer pay that in tool and do it myself so I can learn. Next time I need a motor to gets rebuild, I'll be already equipped in tools.

I'll assemble it myself and take it to the shop only for balancing. What tools do I need, torque wrench, plastique for plastigauging, feeler gauge, rings compressor, ...?

What are all the tolerances I got to check?

 

[steel_3d]

Read Haynes several times. It details plastigaging well enough. You basically plastigage all the mains and rod bearings.

You'll need to file fit your rings. Also detailed in Haynes. The shop can actually do it much quicker if they have a ring filing machine.

You also need to have the small end of the rods and possibly the pistons honed for the proper wrist pin clearance.

If you're using arp main studs as well, it's a good idea to align hone the mains.

You'll need 12-point sockets for all the arp hardware.

Are you resurfacing the deck? Might as well, it'll help the head gasket seal. It would be worth resurfacing the head too.

I had my machinist check my rods for straightness and roundness.

I also bought a 1kg scale accurate to 0.1g to better weight match my pistons and rods. $50 off ebay, it works... The machinist only had one accurate to 1g.

Also bought a 2"-6" bore gauge off ebay, $40. It's very useful for checking the machinist's work on the cylinders and mains, and more accurate than plastigage if you're smart about how you use it.

It seems like you need to do a lot more reading. I was reading for months, everything I could find on the forums before/during my build. You'll have more questions the more you read.

You need to know the clearances you wanna run. At least the ones you can change, like

wrist pin clearance (.0005-.0009"),
piston to wall clearance (.0035-.0040" for wiseco, measured at the bottom of the skirt, according to the instructions, not higher up like other pistons),
ring gap (.019" top, .022" second).

These numbers are just suggestions, they're what I used, and they'll work fine unless you're going for well over 500whp.

I tried to come up with a few key points, but it's not everything, and you can't expect anyone to hold your hand. You have to go out and read like a mofo till you're green in the face, then ask specific questions.

 

[megadan]

Like you said, I'll need more reading on this. The problem is when I look at post, they only containt part of info.

Actualy, I'm currently in Africa for 1 month (for work) so no Haynes with me. I know, I forgot my bible.

All the parts are gathered at home and waiting for me.

Actually, The hone and bore will be done by the machine shop so I'll tell him what clearance I want (0035-.0040" for wiseco, measured at the bottom of the skirt).

The resurfacing part will also be done by the machine shop (block and head).

Thanks for the help. I'll continue reading then.