1G Endurance Racing

[theamsoilguy]

Thought I would post a video I made about our 9 hour endurance race.

Here is the 3 minute video.

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I built my car to chumpcar\champcar rules. We will be moving from those rules and making it faster as my local racing isn't enforcing the champcar limitations.

1g AWD, hotbits coil overs ( sprung stiff ), active toe delete, poly busnings, big intercooler, VR-4 brake upgrade, 16g, 245/17 Dunlop star specs, rtm rear sway bar upgrade, fuel cell.

We can barely manage heat now, we will be moving the oil cooler from between the intercooler and rad to a headlight bucket and adding a transmission cooler. And we desperately need to fix bump steer.

Changes coming are camber\caser plates, custom control arms for bump\steer roll center, boost from stock to maybe 15psi, maybe rear arms with heim joints.

I was mostly putting the video together to learn how to combine my GPS data, music and two video sources. I will do a better job editing next time.

I found a center of gravity calculator ( and I have scales at home ) so I can determine my center of gravity which is needed for other calculations. I also found a MacPherson strut suspension calculator. I will share that when we modify the car this winter.

 

[rabenne]

Very impressive! keep up the good work!

 

[Vegas Smith]

Pretty cool. I couldn't imagine doing a 9 hour race.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

How do you find doing an endurance race with a 4G63? I would eventually like to do some long races and heat is the main issue as you know,

 

[theamsoilguy]

How do you find doing an endurance race with a 4G63? I would eventually like to do some long races and heat is the main issue as you know,

I would never do this car knowing what I know now....bmw e30, bmw e36 are good out of the box, the series evolved and there are better choices. But my best answer is, which track would you mostly use? handling or HP track? Pick a car suited to the track ( preferable one with a road racing history ) and therefore aftermarket parts and a lot of knowledge about it on the track. And then know the rules of the series you would race in. Then pick a car. My other advice is buy a built car, way way cheaper than doin git yourself.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I would never do this car knowing what I know now....bmw e30, bmw e36 are good out of the box, the series evolved and there are better choices. But my best answer is, which track would you mostly use? handling or HP track? Pick a car suited to the track ( preferable one with a road racing history ) and therefore aftermarket parts and a lot of knowledge about it on the track. And then know the rules of the series you would race in. Then pick a car. My other advice is buy a built car, way way cheaper than doin git yourself.

No fun in buying a built car plus i have zeen some dodgy builts for track so i would much rather build it myself and its what i am doing now,

From all the people i have spoke about it 6cyl in S and V are much better for longer races due to stress, more cylinders then 4 basically are better.

We cannot all afford a car for each circuit so 1 car has to do but it might be better st 1 thing then the other as thats the normal situation.

How many drivers you have and each stint is what length?

 

[rabenne]

I am with you Bobby, on the point of buying a built car? You will end up spending just as much to get things right if you are not careful... There are some REALLY dodgy builds floating around. If you don't believe me go read some newbie questions on this forum and tell me you want their problems in your garage.

If you know the builder and are intimately familiar with a car, I could see buying one already modified. If there is so much as one question that I cant get an answer for, NO FRICKIN' WAY!

 

[rabenne]

Also, why are you "the amsoil guy"? Can you sell me oil at a discount!?!?!

 

[theamsoilguy]

Well yes, there might be crap out there for sale. But it’s way way cheaper to buy a car. Window net, seat, spares, fire suppression, gauges, kill switch , etc it all adds up. As for build, if the cage is sketchy run. But there are a lot of good buys out there.

I’ve seen a lot of good stuff for sale. I bought a 944 with a ls1 conversion and the rest of the bits were upgraded to turbo 944 parts, bolt in cage, race seats, etc for way less than I could have built it.

Best to get a car where it will be good for the track, ie miata on a handling track, something light/high hp for a hp track. My car would do better in my series on hp track than a handling track. My local track is a handling track but I built my 1g before the track was built.

To answer a question. Most endurance racing series in this price range specify max 2 hours per driver per stint and driver needs to be out of the car for 2 hours before you can get back in. So a 9 hour race is 4-5 drivers. No one on my team wants to drive twice in same day. But the endurance racing has 9-24 and once a year a 36 hour race. The
Long races are
Exhausting.

 

[Jamesberry2382]

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We run 24 hours of lemons with ours

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

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We run 24 hours of lemons with ours

That spoiler

 

[Jamesberry2382]

Yeah we poor just trying to fit in. Actually the idea is to make a good car but look cheap.

 

[802Hoop]

So is your "local racing" not ChampCar? I'm confused by this. With those upgrades you've listed (not sure if those are current or future upgrades), you should be well over the 500 points limit. Do you start with penalty laps, or does your local tech not care that you've got a bunch of "cheaty" parts?

That 16g alone is 100 points.