2G effective bracing

[greengoblin]

Look forward to seeing your design.

The GT spec stuff looks like junk. I'd stay away.

Kevin

 

[cburke23]

I wonder how they are bolting that back bar to the trunk? The only way that thing will work is if it was in an X type design. I would not spend $380.00 on that thing!

 

[pboglio]

Hahaha, that engine compartment looks familiar I bought that firewall brace a good couple years ago. The firewall mount isn't the best design but there isn't a whole lot of room on a 2g to attach to the firewall itself, so it attaches to the 90* flange above it. It makes a difference, but 80% of the gains come from the standard RRE strut tower brace. Their designs are vault like rigid though. At some point, steering response and handling improvements are going to shift towards stiffer suspension bushings and stiff tire sidewalls.

 

[eclipsh]

Kevin, your build is awesome to check out. Any chance you can PM me the specs on those front/rear subframe bushings? I've got an extra front subframe sitting in my donor car and a summer of sitting at home being Mr. Mom on it's way. I figure I'll pull the subframe to make my cross brace and might as well see about some bushings/reinforcement while I'm at it.

 

[endeffect0]

So i was out tinkering in the garage just-now and i designed a rig for testing chassis flex on our car using a several micrometers. its not quite done yet, i have to pick up a second slide caliper but it think it should work well.

I am looking for autox guys in PA, or the tri-state area. On slicks, without a roll-bar or cage, who isn't running much chassis bracing or would be willing to remove it and run a few lbs of equipment bolted to their strut towers for a few laps.

If anyone is interested or knows some one who is, pm me or whatever. Ill post the design for the rig when i get back to my own garage on Monday and can finish making it... and pick up a few more micrometers.

 

[RipperXX]

Any progress?

 

[97gst_spyder]

+1, BTW I love the RRE FSTB set..

 

[the_mork]

I would be interested in seeing more discussion on stitch welding, especially with pictures and discussion of where people think the most important seams in the car are. I think that this could be a wonderfully beneficial and cheap project for many weekend racers.

 

[sax_man]

Bring this thread back from the dead!

My friend is going to fab up some fender braces for me at some point during the winter/ spring before autoX season starts back up.

I'm hoping someone can find or go take a picture of the 2g fender area so I we can try and mock something up.

I'm also thinking about having him do some stitch welding while we're at it, so like Mork said, if anyone can chime in with places they've done it at or locations that would benefit the most from it, please do!

Thanks.

 

[snowborder714]

You can find a few pictures of my brother's 2g fender area in this thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/324674-do-you-think-solid-hollow-tubing.html

 

[sax_man]

Awesome. Thanks!

I'm going to post the pic for discussion purposes.

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After reading that thread, looks like the only way would be to weld a tab onto the fender and screw onto that. What problems (other than never being able to take it off) would I run into if I just had it welded straight onto the fender?

 

[endeffect0]

well seeing as this has been dredged back up... update, yea. moved into two different houses in the same year. still building the garage at the new, new place. once that is all set up maybe ill be able to pull the welder, compressor, tool chest ect out of the spare bedroom.

on fender bracing. the major thing that would need to be overcome is the thin steel used by the factory, rather than welding the bar directly in-place i recommend welding a reinforcement plate in place as well as a stud, then you would be able to remove and modify the brace as you see fit.

I found that i have broken more of the factory spot welds on the upper strut tower area. I have no rust and the frame is strait. it seems chassis load alone is contorting the towers enough to do this. that said, i would absolutely recommend running a strut tower bar as well as your fender braces.

 

[sax_man]

Yeah I'm looking into either the RRE front bar or the DC sports carbon bar. I don't like that they're not triangulated to the firewall, but they're the best I can do for now. I'll probably look at modifying them so they tie into the firewall. I'm also going to get the RRE or tanabe lower tie bar, and I alread have a DC rear bar.

As far as adding a plate goes, will I run into any issues with clearance once I try to put the fender back on?

 

[greengoblin]

I'm 99% done with stitch up the wheel wells on one side of the car. not the prettiest but it will work.

Snapped a few pics.

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[endeffect0]

Excellent!
and great pictures too! with that underside veiw its really obvious just why our cars flex as much as they do.

It will be a shame to cover all that work with undercoat.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Looks great!! When do you think you'll have the car running?

 

[jacobevan611]

This is by far my favorite thread ever. Finally some dsmers who don't think going fast in a straight line is the most important thing ever.

 

[RipperXX]

You just say that because you don't have a turbo.










I kid, I kid.

 

[jacobevan611]

To tell you the truth. Yes I wish I had a turbo because yes hauling ass in a straight line is fun. But it's kind of lame and gets boring. Sure theres skill involved in launching but its ####yshit compared to learning how to apex corners and braking as late as possible and trying yo over take someone on a track. Some of the lowest horsepower cars such as miatas are faster around tracks than say a 430hp dodge charger because they are light and nimble.

 

[RipperXX]

Oh I know, I was just messing with you a little bit.

 

[greengoblin]

I have almost all the under side over head stitch welding done. Need to fix a few spots and finish up a few little areas.

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[RipperXX]

Looks great! Can't wait to see it finished and hear what you think of it.

 

[endeffect0]

Some of the lowest horsepower cars such as miatas are faster around tracks than say a 430hp dodge charger because they are light and nimble.

True! But we aint dealin' with no miata are we fatty.

I give infinite points to anyone who gets their car out to the track, doubly so if its there actual DD and triple bonus score for an only car. thats right (infinityx2 + triple-bonus-score). its science, you might not understand.

But I digress.

here are some pix of the AMS EVO from their thread. (I hold no rights)

this is what i often see when it comes to stitch welding. I can not attest to the merits of individual tac's vs these stitches. I do know however if your going derby racing there is a limit to the distance of and between this style of stitch weld. you can spot and tack weld to your hearts content. (maybe the rednecks know something i dont.)

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many more in that thread...


disclaimer, on cold medicine so if i am not making sense i plead temporary insanity... or something. although i guess a disclaimer should come before all the nonsense i babble.. oh well.

 

[greengoblin]

I went with tacks just because it was easy and I was/am lazy.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Some of the lowest horsepower cars such as miatas are faster around tracks than say a 430hp dodge charger because they are light and nimble.

I easily catch and push all Miatas thru turns, and then burn them down as I exit.
Now if that little basterd has forced induction, look out.

By the end of the day, I was pushing a Porsche GT3 so hard he was getting slideways in front of me practically in every exit.
The ultimate prey is the Lotus Exige.
Those things are beasts on the road course.

The stitch welding is something I'm going to eventually do.

I'm currently building a race long block and a heavy-duty drivetrain with a Quaife front LSD.