2G effective bracing

[chrysler kid]

Give me some sub frame connectors made of out steel to give me actual floor jack muting points and you can have my money. I don't even care about handling but dammit I'm sick of the weak ass underside of these cars

 

[TehRiceBandit]

you're correct!
What's the difference if you don't mind me asking? Because it bolts up the same in two main areas

I do see a difference in that it braces in two areas but I'm sure with road racing R&D this would be a great substitute

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclsuspension.htm



Scroll down once you open it
Front lower stress bar


That red brace is nice I had one like that on my E36 M3 but the RRE brace has helped firm up my car along with the front t and rear strut tower braces and my car has no sqeaking or rattles and handling is on point along with my poly urethane bushings a RM rear sway. The bars I would say make the biggest difference in the way the car feels.

I think my car is braced very good!

Yeah, I've seen that before OBX (eBay) also makes a front lower tie bar.

This brace has 4 points of constraint in an X vs 2 points which I think provides obvious advantages. Beyond that I'll let someone with more suspension knowledge chime in

Give me some sub frame connectors made of out steel to give me actual floor jack muting points and you can have my money. I don't even care about handling but dammit I'm sick of the weak ass underside of these cars

I hear you on the jacking points.


Just an update, RTM was too backed up and I felt like they didn't have enough time to replicate it in a reasonable timeline so I have the brace again. Really professional shop though, they definitely have my respect.

There's a reputable fabricator here in the bay area that my friend who races recommended me to so that's my next stop. I messaged a few suspension guys here on tuners awhile ago but none of them got back to me. If anyone is interested in fabricating this piece let me know.

 

[ceedawg]

Yeah, I've seen that before OBX (eBay) also makes a front lower tie bar.

This brace has 4 points of constraint in an X vs 2 points which I think provides obvious advantages. Beyond that I'll let someone with more suspension knowledge chime in

Then call Road Raceengineering! Im sure they could have designed one that way but they must have seen advantages designing it the way they did. These guys road race these cars since they were first built and I'm sure they went through every fiber of the 2g body investigating its weak points strengths and came up with this part as a good solution to strengthening the chassis the way its made.

 

[TehRiceBandit]

Then call Road Raceengineering! Im sure they could have designed one that way but they must have seen advantages designing it the way they did. These guys road race these cars since they were first built and I'm sure they went through every fiber of the 2g body investigating its weak points strengths and came up with this part as a good solution to strengthening the chassis the way its made.

Yeah. I had a bad experience with them so I won't be dealing with them again. If you think a 2 point brace is better I'll stop wasting my time trying to get this replicated then.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

A 2 point vs a 4 point is not always better or worse but you need to check how the chassis has flex! How the 4 point works is it stops arms and main frame for spreading as much and it reduces the twisting abit more then a 2 point does, its always nice to have more points of attatchment of course so go ahead with replicating it,

The other way is to have 2 seperate straight connecting bars then 2 other bars to connect them both together, this would give the greatest strength but im not sure if its possible or would even fit under there that way.

Another good bracing way up top is to connect the upper strut tower to the front most lower rail and then back towards the firewall or gp through to the cage and that also means you wont need any type of fender bracing either as its basically the same effect. Ive not got a chace to look at the lower rail towards thw car yet but many folks gusset that to aid flexing and alot of cars generally have alot more flex in that area then most imagine or know,

 

[ceedawg]

Yeah. I had a bad experience with them so I won't be dealing with them again. If you think a 2 point brace is better I'll stop wasting my time trying to get this replicated then.

Hmm sorry to hear that however if you cannot get the 4point brace replicated I see the RRE brace as a great option as I have it on my car with the strut tower brace and the car is firm ,squeak and rattle free and handles like it s on rails

I did have that 4 point brace on my E36 M3

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4113-e36-x-brace-reinforcement.aspx


You still wont go wrong with the RRE brace

 

[pksystems]

Give me some sub frame connectors made of out steel to give me actual floor jack muting points and you can have my money. I don't even care about handling but dammit I'm sick of the weak ass underside of these cars

When I did rust repairs on rear jack points I added some angle iron and extra steel tubing running vertically over the jack point. It's plenty strong now.

The front wasn't rusted out, so I did nothing there, but yes it seems weak.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

So you guys are jacking on the seal? Thats ways a bad idea! I never know why they tell you to use that location but its always bad news, use lower arms or inner pickup point locations

 

[mysticj]

any updates