The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

420A ECU programming??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

shaunsy12

10+ Year Contributor
43
0
Apr 9, 2012
breckenridge, Texas
OK so i have a 99 eclipse and about 2 weeks ago it stalled on me going down the road and so far I have replaced the fuel pump, filter, crank sensor, coil pack, and the fuel pump relay and has not cranked over. I'm starting to think its my ECU which I have one on order and is being shipped to me my question is will i have to get the ECU programmed in order for me to be able to drive it if that is my problem??
 
I would think your ECU would come preprogrammed. Unless you have some sort of EPROM chip in your current ECU. Pull your ECU and see if the caps are bad, or anything like that. you can repair the ECU cheaper than replace it more than likely.
 
What kind of ecu are you getting? A 95 eprom ecu or a replacement 98/99 black plastic flashable ECU?

Those are the 2 stock ones that can be programmed.
 
Well I pulled apart my old ECU and it has a gel coating over the circuit board and can't see anything and I'm getting a replacement 98/99 ECU

and I do believe its coming from a salvage yard so it could be programmed already to the same one ive got im just hoping i did right instead of going to the dealership which i paid 700 difference on the ECU
 
ok thanks that was my main concern i've done dumped in 400 dollars on this car since it died on me and i was geeting frustrated with it so i called a buddy of mine that bought my other 2g that had the same problem and worked it to the ECU so im hoping this will fix the problem ### im running out of patience and i love these cars ### no one expects the power that they really hide

has anyone else had this problem even after replacing the coil pack i still have no spark so thats what made my decision about the ecu
 
OK so the new ECU didnt give give me any spark and I've done replaced every sensor but the vss could that be what's causing me to have no spark
 
OK so the new ECU didnt give give me any spark and I've done replaced every sensor but the vss could that be what's causing me to have no spark

Yes a bad VSS would cause no spark. Check the connection on the harness to the VSS and make sure its secure and you could pull it out the visually inspect it, Its only a one 10mm bolt and relatively easy to remove/replace. It could also be a problem with your CAS and its wiring.
 
I would not see the Vehicle Speed Sensor, causing your problems with NO spark, Double check from your Wire set and Coil Pack and work your way back to the pigtail. :aha: There is probably a Wiring problem, then anything else, I would like to see you test everything, before you go buy parts and guess your way....Just my $.02!
 
I would not see the Vehicle Speed Sensor, causing your problems with NO spark, Double check from your Wire set and Coil Pack and work your way back to the pigtail. :aha: There is probably a Wiring problem, then anything else, I would like to see you test everything, before you go buy parts and guess your way....Just my $.02!

Are you sure it can't be the VSS? This thread was resolved and it was the problem.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/332559-cam-positioning-sensor-question.html
Just exploring all options.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/430206-no-start-no-spark.html
 
Well I have done followed the coil pack wire all the way to the pig tail and didn't see any problems with the wires and i have worked my way from fuel and now working on the fire which is the problem and i also have another thread say long that the vss could cause the no spark problem
 
Yes, the reasoning behind the VSS causing a "NO SPARK" is known as a feedback, but you first need to see if the cam sensor is functioning correctly, as the thread continued and the signal runs by that first. Then you can move away from that. To double check and have NO doubt, pull the VSS and check it, simple as that... :sneaky:
 
Well the can sensor is new so i don't see why it wouldn't function correctly

For the same reason that my "new" phone kept freezing/touch screen failing, my "new" brake pads from advanced were the wrong size, and my "new" wheel bearing/hub, despite me telling the guy at advanced that it looked way to big and him reassuring me the part number was right, was no where near the correct hub.
 
STOP replacing parts and buy a multimeter. You need to test things before replacing anything. Have you verified that the timing belt didn't break and that the cams are actually spinning? Are the injectors pulsing, is the fuel pump kicking on? You need to do a continuity test from the cam and crank sensors to the ecu, and the coil pack to ecu. Until you start actually testing (not just by looking at it) than you will just spend money and fix nothing.
 
The timing belt is in still on there so the cams are spinning and the fuel pump is kicking on in and I'm getting fuel to the pistons so it has to do with the fire part because I'm not getting any spark with a new coil pack
 
For the same reason that my "new" phone kept freezing/touch screen failing, my "new" brake pads from advanced were the wrong size, and my "new" wheel bearing/hub, despite me telling the guy at advanced that it looked way to big and him reassuring me the part number was right, was no where near the correct hub.

^

Double check your cam sensor, as well as other electronic parts with a multimeter. Its impossible to look at a sensor/wire and be able to tell if its getting the correct input voltage, putting out what its supposed to, properly grounded, etc.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top