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ECU acting up

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1gboost

15+ Year Contributor
70
0
Jun 23, 2007
Des Moines, Iowa
So I've done a little reading and it sounds like when an ecu is making loud clicking noises this means it's going bad? My ecu is giving me all kinds of problems. Sometimes the car will try to start but just can't make it happen. I grab a bundle of wires going to the ecu and push them up a bit or wiggle them and then wala the car turns over next try. Also, while driving I've had instances were the car just randomly shuts off... It's very strange. I have to do the wire/ecu wiggle then the car turns back on. I don't know if it's the ecu itself or possibly a bad connector or something. The ecu will also sometimes make very loud clicking noises when it's starting to act up so this is what made me start to question if it might be "going out". It does have dsmlink on it, not sure if that would have anything to do with my problems.
 
Pull the connectors going to the ECU and inspect them for damage(look at the connector from the side that plugs into the ECU). I had a vehicle that did a similar thing to yours. Someone was apparently trying to switch the pins on the ECU harness connectors and damaged the connector pretty bad. The car would randomly have an injector "drop out" resulting in the engine running on 3 cylinders. Playing with the ECU connector resulted in the car running normal again.

This may not be your problem but is a very easy thing to check.

EDIT: May also want to check the wires leading to the connectors for any jacket up tap-ins or other faulty electrical work.
 
I've had a crazy week and just haven't had the couple of minutes needed to check it out. Ty guys for the quick and very helpful responses. When I do manage to get to it I'll be sure to post the results so anyone with a similar gripe has something to compare to for help.
 
I figured I'd drop my two cents on this...

This just happened to me a few weeks ago. The problem is in fact the ECU. When you get the chance, when the car stalls out on you, and you try to start it back up, notice the stock boost gauge... A "healthy" ECU will have the boost gauge bounce to "0" everytime the car is switched to "ON".

For me, anytime the boost gauge DID NOT bounce, the car wouldn't start. It would crank perfectly fine, but never quite actually catch. Even when I'm driving and it stalls, I'll put it in gear and drop the clutch and even still the car would refuse to respond. However, if I let the car sit for x amount of minutes, the gauge would bounce, start right up after 1 crank and idle perfectly fine. The length of time it would run was always very unpredictable though.

I checked the ECU (untouched for 20 years), and I didn't notice any problems... At least, from what I heard. Usually, people say you'll find the board browned/warped/physically damaged. For me, everything was fine until I called my DSM mechanic and he told me to press/wiggle gently on the caps. Sure enough very very minute amounts of resin came out. At this point, please note that a leak is a leak. It will cause problems, and it will only get worse.

EDIT* Here are the videos. Sorry, for the shitty narration on the first video... I was a little baffled :/

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/v-ljvakTZo0?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ogIHr5OF1r8?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Thanks for the info, I figured as much. Not sure what the steps are for getting a new ecu with dsmlink. If I have to buy both new or I can have the chip taken off the one I'm using or if that is even a good idea. I have no idea about ecu stuff. Looks like I was finally right about something, guess I'll have to get a new computer.
My car doesn't shut off nearly as fast yours though. I can take it up the store get gas and make it home without a problem one day and then it will decide to shut off several times on the same trip the next. Pretty much have to cross my fingers every time I want to drive that car though, isn't that kind of normal for dsmer's? LOL

I'll watch my boost gauge next time I try to play with it. That's genius. Completely obvious but I never thought of using that as a reference. Thanks for the tip!
 
Well I don't think it's the ecu itself. I had a few minutes to play with it. Noticed when I move a set of wires for one of the connectors I was able to duplicate the gripe. So I pulled it out and looked over the wires and noticed that the set I was moving is a large bundle that appears to have some splicing going on. I haven't pulled it apart or anything but I noticed that the car only goes nuts when that bundle is pulled on. At least it's not the ecu! Once I get more time to dig in there I think it will be an easy fix.
 
It is makes a difference when you mess with the wires than it IS NOT the ecu. This is pretty apparent. If there is any spliced wires in there you need to get in there and re-solder and heat shrink everything.
 
I never really got a "hesitate" issue but my car has randomly shut off before. Did you watch the video about the boost gauge? I think that's a good way to start figuring things out.

One thing I have noticed is when I mess with the wire bundle that's giving me issues my check engine light comes on immediately. If I'm at idle then I can sometimes let it fix itself, if it happens while driving the car typically just shuts itself off.
 
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