Eclipse Dieing?

[Eclipse223]

97 GSX Eclipse 156k on it AUTO fallowing mods: T28 ported, 3'downpipe, Full IC piping, cold air Intake, Resonators removed but still stock mufflers. boost around 13 to 15 psi it varies for some reason and some times it will run 17 to 18 psi depends on how cold no clue why. Also it has NGK plugs and wires put in 2 days ago same time I removed the resonators. It just feels like it won't go anywhere I am not sure if the eng. has problems or head or what but what should I do to find out why it is not running up to par I am totally lost I thought it might be plugs but that did not help when I changed that out. Timing belt is new maybe 10k on it. I Pray I don't have to rebuild it that's the last thing I need. All Ideas are open ### help Thanks Guys.


Thanks Guys can always depend on fellow DSMer's

 

[kenamond]

Ok guys got all the leaks fixed but i have a problem with my BOV it leaked during the test should it leak at all during the test if so how bad should it leak because it only leaked a little it still would go up to like 14 to 15 psi just took awhile we put a flang on where the BOV went and it would go all the way up. so untill i get a new BOV can i leave the Flang on there?


Thanks guys

I don't know what you mean by putting a flange where the BOV went. Do you mean you removed the BOV and put some sort of cap on it? If so, you definitely don't want to run this way, or you'll beat the crap out of your turbo's compressor wheel with surge during shifts and when you let off the throttle.

The little black thing that the two vaccuum lines go into under your coolant overflow bottle (white bottle between your intake pipe and radiator) is your boost control solenoid or BCS. This is the stock boost controller.

What model of BOV do you have?

How high are you able to hold now during your leak test? How long does it hold that pressure?

If you can hold 20psi for 30 seconds, you're golden.

Reset your ECU by disconnecting the battery's negative terminal for about 10 minutes to clear its memory. If you were running with these leaks for a long time, the ECU has "learned" how to adapt your fuel and timing to the situation. Since you've fixed the problems, you need the ECU to forget everything it learned and start over. It seemed to take a week or so for mine to recalibrate itself, but I have a very short commute, so it might adjust more quickly for you.

One thing that still confuses me is why you were getting 15psi boost if you are still using the stock boost controller (BCS). It is set for ~10-12psi. I know that you can get boost "spikes" where it will hit 15psi and then settle back down to 12psi. Is that what you see?

Let me know how she runs now that you fixed the boost leaks!

 

[Eclipse223]

Ok well the BOV was leaking very badly so I got a Greddy type S off of e-bay so that should work. What do I need to do for the BCS do I have to have that or what. If so where can I pick one up and how much is that going to run me?

As for the leak test it would not hold 20 psi the cap to the leak test would blow off after 16psi so I thought it would hold ok. But it took it about 1sec per psi to drop so I hope that's ok I am not sure? Any other ideas I would take. Thanks


Brien

 

[kenamond]

Ok well the BOV was leaking very badly so I got a Greddy type S off of e-bay so that should work. What do I need to do for the BCS do I have to have that or what. If so where can I pick one up and how much is that going to run me?

The BCS is a part that should still be on your car (so you don't have to buy anything). It is bolted to the passenger side frame rail under the coolant overflow bottle. If you pull the coolant overflow bottle out (no bolts, just lift it up off of the bracket) and look down into your engine compartment between the intake pipe and radiator, you should see a little black solenoid with a plug on the bottom and two hoses coming out toward the driver side. That's the BCS. It has vaccuum lines running to the intake pipe, compressor housing, and turbo wastegate solenoid/actuator. One of the lines has a "T" fitting, so that the two lines from the BCS end up forking into the 3 lines I described.

If you get an aftermarket boost controller, you just remove all of the vaccuum lines connecting to the BCS, plug the hole in the intake pipe where that vaccuum line used to go, and run your new boost controller to the compressor outlet nipple and wastegate actuator nipple where the other two lines went. Make sure you connect it the correct way, or it won't work. Most boost controllers only have two nipples, and you just need to read the instructions. However, leave the plug in the BCS, or you'll get a check engine light.

Okay...this is f**cked up. I edit this thing, but it truncates the text. I had more to say, but it won't let me say it.

 

[kenamond]

Okay...I'll try a new thread to finish what I was trying to say.

Leaking 1psi/second is still a bit too high, but it's much better.

Expose your intercooler (pull the passenger front wheel off - using a jackstand - and take the bolts/clips out that hold the plastic fender in the front of the wheel well and bend it back out of the way so that you can see the intercooler and its inlet and outlet couplers).

Test the entire intake tract from the compressor to the head in sections. Spray a section down, do a pressure test, note any new bubbles, then move to the next section. Spray down the entire intercooler; it could have holes in it.

Test the injector insulators for leaks by spraying soapy water where the injectors insert into the head (stick your head way up under the hood above the fuel rail with a flashlight to see where to spray and where to look for bubbles).

Post all of the leaks you found.

We'll go from there.

 

[Eclipse223]

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I broke the 2nd one off so the vacuum lines do not go in at all now .... That is why I am wondering if I need to buy something or I can just get rid of it let me know thanks.

 

[kenamond]

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I broke the 2nd one off so the vacuum lines do not go in at all now .... That is why I am wondering if I need to buy something or I can just get rid of it let me know thanks.

Do you have a MBC? If not, you need to buy one, because you broke the stock unit. They run about $50 for the cheaper ones. For now, you can connect a vaccuum line straight from the compressor housing nipple to the wastegate actuator. This will limit your boost to about 10psi, but it'll work until you get a MBC.

If you have an MBC, just re-install the BCS and plug it in, to dodge a CEL, but don't connect any of the vaccuum lines to it. One of the hoses went to the intake pipe. Plug the intake pipe at that point. I'm not sure if it still works since it's broken and may throw a CEL anyway. I vaguely recall that the CEL will only happen every now and then if you unplug the BCS, but I'm not positive.

There was one set of vaccuum lines that went from the BCS to a T-fitting, and the two hoses on the T went to the compressor housing and wastegate actuator. When you boost leak test, plug the end of that line where it connected to the BCS.

Let me know how the boost leak test goes.

 

[Eclipse223]

I will I am going to do it as soon as I get all the parts I ordered thanks will let u know.

 

[Eclipse223]

Ok. So while I was waiting for the parts to come in I decided to do the leak test again this time I had 3 friends helping and we found a lot more leaks. But 2 of them I could fix the last one are kind of strange it's coming from the 2nd injector from the driver side. If I push down on it then it stops kind of strange. What do I need to do to get that fixed? I have 680 injectors waiting to go in it with a FPR but I have no clue how to put an FPR on I don't even know where to start. To put it on, if someone could give some great directions on where it goes and how it goes that would be great. Also with it leaking from there how bad can it be hurting me on performance does that mean the fuel is leaking to? Thanks Again.

 

[kenamond]

Ok. So while I was waiting for the parts to come in I decided to do the leak test again this time I had 3 friends helping and we found a lot more leaks. But 2 of them I could fix the last one are kind of strange it's coming from the 2nd injector from the driver side. If I push down on it then it stops kind of strange. What do I need to do to get that fixed? I have 680 injectors waiting to go in it with a FPR but I have no clue how to put an FPR on I don't even know where to start. To put it on, if someone could give some great directions on where it goes and how it goes that would be great. Also with it leaking from there how bad can it be hurting me on performance does that mean the fuel is leaking to? Thanks Again.

There are two seals on each injector. The injector is mounted into the fuel rail on the top end, and this is sealed with an o-ring. If this leaks, you'll get a fuel leak, not a boost leak (think about it; there's no way for your boost leak test to get to the fuel rail). The bottom of the injector is mounted into the intake manifold. This is sealed by an "insulator". This is what's probably leaking (if you pull out the injector, you'll have a hole into the intake port which *will* see pressure when you do a boost leak test). These insulators are common sources of boost leaks. When new, they are rubber, but over time, they degrade into a rigid plastic. I just changed mine due to boost leaks, and it was amazing how hard the old ones were compared to the new ones.

It sounds like you have two paths of handling this injector boost leak. If you upgrade your injectors and FPR, then I'm not sure if the injectors mount into the stock insulators or if you need some special insulators. I've never upgraded my injectors, so I can't help you there. I'd do some research by searching on the forum and then follow this up by posting any questions you couldn't find answers to in the search.

If you choose to keep the stock injectors for now, you can buy new insulators. You can buy them online or from a mitsu dealership. They're like $30 or so for the set of 4 at the mitsu dealership, and they're $10+shipping from SBR here. Changing the injector insulators isn't a big deal, but you do have to depressurize your fuel system to take the fuel rail off. It turns out to be 7 bolts total to get the whole rail off (2 bolts on each end of the rail, and 3 bolts to take the rail off the intake manifold). You might as well get the o-rings for the tops of the injectors while you're at it. After you have the rail and injectors off, you can pull the injectors out of the fuel rail, take the old o-rings off, put the new ones on, add some dielectric grease to the o-rings (just a bit) so that they slide back into the rail without damaging the o-ring, put the new insulators in, then install everything.

There is a tech article for changing the o-rings and insulators here. I followed it, but I still ended up spraying gasoline in my face when I disconnected the high pressure fuel line from the fuel rail, so be careful (put a rag over it when you pull it out of the fuel rail and close your eyes ). Just follow the instructions carefully. That tech article recommends replacing your fuel rail o-rings (one for the high pressure fuel line and one for the FPR). I have new ones, but the old ones looked just fine, so I left them on. I didn't have any fuel leaks, so that worked out. Also, some recommend that after you unplug the connector under your rear seat (read the tech article) that you should run the motor until it stalls to help depressurize the fuel system. I did this but still got sprayed by gas .

Another thing you should do before pulling the rail off is to clean up the dirt and grit around the insulators that has settled on the intake manifold. This will fall into the slot that the insulators press into. I used some Q-tips to clean any grit that fell in there.

Also, be careful to not drop the spacers under the 3 fuel rail bolts. They can fall down into the darkness of your engine bay if you're not careful. I dropped one, but was able to extract it with one of those long tube thingies with the pinchers on one end and a controller on the other so that you can open and close the pinchers. You may not be as lucky and not be able to find one if it drops. If you do lose any, you can buy a new set from SBR here.