The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Dual intank fuel pumps

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BluemeanieTSi

20+ Year Contributor
470
1
Nov 17, 2002
Freeport, Pennsylvania
i started trying to figure out how to put dual pumps in the stock housing but that wasn't happening without major hacking. since it was my only housing i had i started looking for alternatives so i decided to build my own.

the housing cost me about 10 bux and 2 days to make, i still need to wire it.

here's what i started with but this ended up not working well due to return line placement.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


the housing isn't all that thick it was the thickest metal i could find at the local tractor supply company. i just cut a circle to match the upper piece and welded a support rod to it, then welded the inner ring piece for the gasket, test fit to make sure it sealed ok then started on the feed lines. they are 3/8th brake line i bought 3/8th brake unions and ordered 3/8th flare to 6 an fittings from summit. the housing cost me around 10 bux and the fittings cost around 15 total for that part.

(ignore the twisted screens the pumps weren't secured yet for this pic)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



after about a days work (i'm not much for planning things out) i realized i had no room for wiring or a return line. soooooo i started over

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


the two 45 degree 6an hose ends clear the back seat with no modification following the factory feed lines. the "y" block is a BG (barry grant) fuel block i got from jegs for around 30 bux and it is 3/8th NPT, it comes with a pressure tap source that needs to be plugged (i see no need to put a gauge back there) the lines are 6 an then 3/8 to 6an 45 degree fittings for inlefts with a 3/8th to 8 an and 8 an line from then on.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


i kept the float for street car use, and i kept the gauge light crap just so i didnt' have to cut it apart. the return line is 3/8th and the vent is 1/4 brake line, i'll be using the factory feed hard line as a larger return line so i dont' have to run another line under tha car i'll use the existing one which i think is 5/16ths

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


everything is soldered with plumbing solder and leak tested. here's a good shot of the flare to an fittings from summit.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


here's what i have so far, all the lines (not cut to length) and the filter i will be using (caution this filter is over a foot long) everything is 8an from the y block up including the rail. i will be using a magnafuel fuel pressure regulator as i was not impressed with the aeromotive one i had been using in the past.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



questions, comments, personal experiences......for reference i'm planning on an fp3065 for the setup at the moment.
 
The project looks great, AAA+ for the fab work, however you need a lot of juice for those 2 pumps...how are you wiring them???
I never understood the "effect" : somebody has one, I need it too?? :)
Anyway for 500-600whp a single rewired BOSCH 300LPH is good enough + with no hastle
 
Probably would have been way easier if you were to go with a shearer fab. dual fuel pump he has them all fabed ready to install, its pretty much bolt on, for any one wantin dual pumps with out doing their own work. But good work on the doing it yourself +1 Good luck with the project!
Take a look at the thread, it was started in 04. I highly doubt the shearer setup was available. And not to mention I'm sure this cost significantly less to build.
 
Probably would have been way easier if you were to go with a shearer fab. dual fuel pump he has them all fabed ready to install, its pretty much bolt on, for any one wantin dual pumps with out doing their own work. But good work on the doing it yourself +1 Good luck with the project!

I recently (June 8, 2007) inquired about the dual fuel pump mount and they did not have any. Looks like a good product ( http://www.shearerfabrications.com/services.php) I did not ask if you'll be able to utilize the stock fuel gage/warning components. I like the idea of having 2 intank pumps.

quote:
"We have had that in development since 02, but we did not see much
interest
fro it until recently. That project has been put on the backburner for
now, but we may come out with a kit in the coming months. Stay tuned
to
the website fro updates on the status of this product.

Thanks for the interest.


JP Riccio
Sales Manager"
Shearer Fabrications
 
That would be the easiest way to go just not sure if it as good or not? Any ideas about that? Would fuel still be able to run through the inline pump if I use a pressure switch to kick the inline pump on at whatever psi so that I will not have issue with fuel pressure being to high at idle?
 
That would be the easiest way to go just not sure if it as good or not? Any ideas about that? Would fuel still be able to run through the inline pump if I use a pressure switch to kick the inline pump on at whatever psi so that I will not have issue with fuel pressure being to high at idle?
Since they are a gear pump' I don't believe they will allow flow when the pump is off. You would have to run some kind of a checkvalve bypass. I think the AFPR should be able to flow plenty with them both running anyway.
 
That would be the easiest way to go just not sure if it as good or not? Any ideas about that? Would fuel still be able to run through the inline pump if I use a pressure switch to kick the inline pump on at whatever psi so that I will not have issue with fuel pressure being to high at idle?

What about running both pumps all the time and using an afpr?
 
I do have a afpr but sometimes it seems people are having trouble with not being able to turm the base pressure down enough with both pumps running? Maybe its not that big deal and would even be easier not to run a pressure switch! Only issue I have right now is that I am switching from -6AN to -10AN for the feed line, and I had an adapter that screwed to the NPT thread of the fuel pump assemble to Male -6AN fitting, I am wondering if I should drill a new hole and install a -10AN fitting on that plate and connect that to the pump? Or would it be to much of a restriction do just get an adapter from -6AN to -10AN and call it good?
 
Ok so i just finished a twin pump setup in my buddies 2g AWD. I was able to use the stock cradle i just removed the pump hanger and welded in two steel lines with -8 fittings on them. If anyone is interested i will do a tech it was really easy. But im a littel worried about the way i ran the pumps together i just have a -8 Tee so each pump has a -8 line running to a tee then there is a -8 line running to the rail. could there be any flow issues with this. the car was just tuned and made 505hp on a FP3065 at 28psi. We plan on going to a GT4294r so i want to make sure. If you dont have any good answers then dont comment (no guessing) THANK YOU.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top