dsmlink timing jumps

[green97gstspyder]

I still need to set my base timing but i noticed at idle my timing jumps from anywhere from 6 to 26 degrees. I went to ground timing pin to set base timing and ot wasnt able to idle and flooded out and it took me hours to get running again. Im new to the dsmlink but i know timing isnt supposed to jump like that. I am running a 6 bolt with 90 style cas and hks 272 cams. This head originally had the other style cas would that make a difference?

 

[greekgodchaos]

If you did not rewire your CAS wiring then it might make a difference in how it runs.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm

 

[green97gstspyder]

The car had the 90 style cas but the motor i swapped into the car had the other style cas so i swapped the 90 style cas onto the new motor so i didnt have to rewire

 

[Hal]

If you did not rewire your CAS wiring then it might make a difference in how it runs.

RRE Instructions

Not needed with the 'Link products.

Timing that floats at idle is PERFECTLY NORMAL unless you ground the timing connector or use link to "logically" do it.

 

[green97gstspyder]

What do i change in link to fix the timing to get it to be more consistent

 

[Hal]

What do i change in link to fix the timing to get it to be more consistent

Set the base timing (RTFM), adjust the idle speed and forget about it.

It's NORMAL for it to bounce around at idle.

 

[Calan]

Post an idle log.

 

[green97gstspyder]

here are the logs i took earlier today

i am running 1000cc injectors at -55% global and 480 for deadtime per the ecmlink chart for my delphi injectors and as I said before I have hks 272 cams and a hx35 turbo.

 

[turboglenn]

If wired correctly (car runs) it doesnt' matter which type of 1g CAS you use, they both put out a square wave signal of the same pattern, both interpreted as a hall effect/optical (which one is of each type, green top being optical and my favorite now days)

the main change was the "invert cas) because mitsu changed the pins of the ignition drivers to the ignition module randomely through out the years but then again, it it starts and isn't popping and spitting it's just fine, and you can swap the plugs to the opposite coils instead of inverting the signal just as easily.

The jumping timing is due to the mapping in the ECU, but instead of using the manual grounding terminal to set base timing with DSM link, you want to go into the DSMlink sttings and use it's to electronically ground timing connector, in the same oplace/pag where you can turn on the fans and fuel pump.

If it jumping bothers you just set all the cells around idle to be the same and it will be consistant down to a degree or two, that will float a little based on play in the T-belt, and other engine components.

BUt to be honest if you grouned the OEM connector and it stalled the car and flooded it to where you had to spend that much time to get the car running again i'd be investiating into the car's wiring system and what's happeneing with it becayse that's not normal with or without DSMlink. It sounds like something is hooked up or bypassed/rigged up in a weird way

 

[green97gstspyder]

i didnt ground the oem connector manually I grounded it through the dsmlink when that happened. I just assumed that the cas was out of time and with the advance of the ecu killed it just wasnt advanced enough to keep up with the fuel flow. I think today I am going to unplug the fuel pump and try to set the base timing by cranking it over without starting it to avoid what happened yesterday. I will see what I can accomplish today hopefully it will be better than yesterday.

here is my latest logs today after setting timing to 5 degrees before advance kicks in and towards the end of the second log I was able to get rid of the white smoke by cutting the global fuel from -55.1 to -52.7 and changed my dead time as well to zero. Was also able to get the idle some what descent. Its hard to get the 272 cams to idle smoothly i eventually got it to fluctuate from 990 to 1150 rpm and at idle the timing is sitting between 19.1 and 20.1 degrees and the temo of the coolant was about 220.

Im going to try to take a cruise log tomorrow. Does anyone know how to change the timing on the computer without going to the table log in the direct access? I keep getting a message saying that my ecu doesnt support this. I am assuming this is because I am only running a v2 chip on the v3 program. Are we supposed to use the slide table with the yellow dots? everytime I move those I dont really notice a difference and are the positive numbers going to bring timing up from 19.1 to 25.1 or will it move it in the opposite direction?

 

[Calan]

...towards the end of the second log I was able to get rid of the white smoke by cutting the global fuel from -55.1 to -52.7 and changed my dead time as well to zero.

Huh? Why would you have white smoke, and why would changing the fuel affect it? White smoke is usually a sign of burning coolant, or in some cases burning oil; too much fuel produces black smoke. If you were running rich and causing the car to smoke, lowering the global value should make it worse.

Does anyone know how to change the timing on the computer without going to the table log in the direct access? I keep getting a message saying that my ecu doesnt support this. I am assuming this is because I am only running a v2 chip on the v3 program.

None of the DA table control applies to V2. You really should upgrade if you want to do any serious tuning on your car.

 

[green97gstspyder]

So those tables with the yellow dots are useless to me. (The fuel, maf comp and maf clamp and timing tables with those dots?)

The smoke may have been blue it smelled rich.

So with v2 im limited to fuel values and a few settings and can't control timing?

 

[Calan]

So those tables with the yellow dots are useless to me. (The fuel, maf comp and maf clamp and timing tables with those dots?)

No, I'm referring to the DA tables (which are true tables) that appeared in V3. You are referring to the sliders in V2, which is the only way there is to adjust fuel and timing in that version.

 

[green97gstspyder]

My fuel and timing sliders are all still at zero is there somewhere I should put these to start before I do a cruise log?

 

[Calan]

Maybe this old page can help:

The DSM ECU Timing Curve

 

[mizak82]

I'm curious as well. I'm new to v3 and my sliders are all zero.

 

[Calan]

I'm curious as well. I'm new to v3 and my sliders are all zero.

If you are on V3, your fuel and timing sliders should all be zeroed. You should be using the DA tables to set target AFR and timing advance.

Of course the MAFComp sliders are still used, unless you are running speed density.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

To add to what others have said, the timing moves around at idle as part of the closed loop idle speed control system. Timing changes help the ECU get finer control of idle speed than the ISC alone can provide.

If you grounded the pin or checked the box in ECMlink (doesn't matter which, the check box was only added to ECMlink for later 2g cars that don't have the wire) and it doesn't want to run at all, base timing is probably off. I would verify that with the timing light. RPM will drop and it will run like shit, but it should stay running.

There's some weird shit going on in that log. The MAF comp settings are wacked, causing high airflow readings at idle, high timing, and probably contributing to the high idle speed (500 over target), and I wouldn't be surprised if it's rich enough to smoke pretty good at idle (unlikely to be black). Zero out the MAFcomp table and start over. Add IdleSW, fuel trims, ISCposition, LearnedIdleAdj, throttle position, and closed loop to your captured values and post a new log. With that info captured you'll get more help.

 

[green97gstspyder]

here are my new logs with tps adjust enabled and maf comp and clbe missinamp zeroed out and tried playing with fuel settings but still is running really rich and is smoking still. it also sounds like it may be missing just a little.

 

[green97gstspyder]

I found out why my car is smoking. I checked my link and found est air fuel ratio was 32. My fuel pressure is around 39 or 40

 

[Hal]

TO the O/P:

The MAF comp settings are wacked, causing high airflow readings at idle, high timing, and probably contributing to the high idle speed (500 over target), and I wouldn't be surprised if it's rich enough to smoke pretty good at idle (unlikely to be black). Zero out the MAFcomp table and start over.

You need to do as advised or people are going to stop trying to help.

Hal

 

[Calan]

I found out why my car is smoking. I checked my link and found est air fuel ratio was 32.

Huh? Can you post a log of this?

In V2, if AFRatioEst is way off, it could be because of the inputs to that parameter. The old AFRatioEst parameter is only as good as the data fed into it, and even then it doesn't mean a whole lot. It is certainly no substitute for an actual wideband.

In V3, AFRatioEst basically just tracks the DA target AFR.

And... what Hal said.

 

[green97gstspyder]

I zeroed out the maf comp and clamp table and thats what I posted last. here is the last log with other stuff made visible which I just learned how to find. I am still learning on how to do stuff on this program it is all very new to me. I am yet to figure out how to get the tps block to work on my logs though.

 

[Hal]

I zeroed out the maf comp and clamp table and thats what I posted last. here is the last log with other stuff made visible which I just learned how to find. I am still learning on how to do stuff on this program it is all very new to me. I am yet to figure out how to get the tps block to work on my logs though.

Your last attached log file is in post 19.

Here's the mafcomp settings, does that look zeroed out?

 

[green97gstspyder]

HOW DID THAT GET BACK LIKE THAT
It was zeroed out. Ill have to go back and mess with it again when i get back from my business trip. Sorry for wasting your time. Ill repost in a week