DSM and OP1.3???

[InfiniteGSX]

I use a OP2 and I'm having issues. The Reflash connector was done just like in this page:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...first-flashed-dsm-ecu-98-99-flashing-faq.html.

I've tested the connector and its Perfect! So I know its not the connector. So I had a guy come over with a STI and a 1.3, When I looked at the 1.3 it doesn't have a plug for the reflash connector. So how are you guys using it on your DSM's? My Open Port works perfect on the guys STI because they don't have reflash connectors. They have 2 built in wires in the driver kick panel that they connect together to put the ECU into flash mode. I'd REALLY like this on my car instead of using the reflash connector. Because I think the port on my OP2 is not putting out enough voltage.

So my question is, how exactly are you turning your ECU onto Flash Mode using a OP1.3?

Photos are very welcome and will help!

 

[steve]

You can't use the OP 1.3 cable to flash a 2g ECU. It works with the EVO ECUs but not the 2G.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I was going to say the same thing.

But I think they may have a Evo ecu... .

 

[InfiniteGSX]

2G and evo are the same. They use the same re flash connector. I have evo ECU and had 2g. Which has a re flash connector that connects to the openport 2. But everyone says the 1.3 is better. However there is no re flash connector on the 1.3.


I want to know if there is something I can do just like the subaru guys have. They don't need the re flash cable. They can connect two wires together. Meaning one wire has voltage or ground on it. Prob voltage. I've tried other 2.0's and they fail the same way mine does.


I need a fix now!

 

[MY1GDSM]

Exactly what 1.3 cable is it ? as there are a few... .

Maybe post a pic?

 

[Tiki2777]

the 1.3 is NOT usable on the 2g flashable ecu. Ceddy has repeated this numerous times. It has something to do with not putting out enough voltage/amperage or something compared to the evo ecu which needs less. You will most likely brick your ecu if you use it.

If you brick your ecu you will look and feel like this = (<--always wanted to use this guy)

People use the 1.3 on 2gs for datalogging to protect their 2.0 cables (expensive). When i say 1.3 cables on this other subject, i am talking about the ebay vagcom cables. Any other qs just ask.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I just can't help but to think that this is a USB power problem. Have you played with your power options in windows/ensured the ports you're using are powered and not passive when in battery mode?

Just seems so strange that it doesn't work. It should work.
When you say you've used other 2.0 cables, did you also use a different laptop?

 

[Tiki2777]

Are you absolutely sure that you have the right ecu? Most 97's didn't have the flash capability. I would also check your wiring because i know the added difficulty with the flashable 97 ecus. (you have to wire in the flash adapter or something like that)

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Are you absolutely sure that you have the right ecu? Most 97's didn't have the flash capability. I would also check your wiring because i know the added difficulty with the flashable 97 ecus. (you have to wire in the flash adapter or something like that)

It seems like this guy has a few ECU's floating about. I can't really keep it straight what's been going on. It's spread across like 4 threads.

Having that said, I'm pretty sure he was last mucking about with an Evo8 ECU.

 

[InfiniteGSX]

Ok, This is really too hard to ask a question on DSM Tuners without people going way off base. So I'm just going to say calmly.... ALL 98+ Mitsubishi's are the same. Eclipse, DSM, Lancer, Montero, Evolution... they all require a Reflash Adaptor on the Pin 79... Its the same pin on Evolution 4+, Its the same pin on Montero's, Its the same pin on 98-99 DSM ECU's.

Ok, Next. The OP2 has a 2.5mm Plug built into it to connect a Reflash Adaptor. This adaptor is what sends a specific Signal (which I am trying to figure out wtf it is, Voltage, ground? RTT?) to the ECU Pin 79 to enable the ECU into "Programming Mode". In this mode you can use ECUFlash to Read and Write information to the ECU. Without this you cannot do anything besides logging.

Subaru cars have this same thing, however they have a built in plug in the driver kick panel that they can connect to enable "Programming Mode". I don't know if its voltage, ground or if it sends a email (). But it tells the ECU it is ready for programming. They don't have to connect ANYTHING to the OP1.3 or 2.0 to Read or Write. But they can if they wanted.

Someone just said that the 1.3 cannot be used on the 2g. Well whatever, I don't care. I have seen people use it multiple times but that is not my concern. I have a 2.0. The "voltage or ground signal on pin 79 2.5mm plug" is not putting out the proper signal ON MY CAR ONLY. It is not a USB or Computer issue since an average of 10 different computers/laptops have been used to attempt this.

Next, my OP2.0 has been used on my car with a 25% work rate and a 75% fail rate, and has been used on two Evolution 8's with 100% work rate, and a Lancer Ralliart with 100% work rate and a 2006 STI with 100% work rate.

Conclusion: My OP2.0 works on every other car but mine, and works on every computer I have tried. Which leads me to believe that the REFLASH ADAPTOR that is connected to pin 79, which I have tested and comes up good, is not putting out the proper or enough signal to tell MY EVOLUTION 8 (still doesn't matter if it was 2g or not) ECU to go into "Programming Mode".

My Question (Which didn't need the stupid huge 5th grade explanation): Does anyone know WHAT this signal is that is process through the Reflash Pin 79 wire? Has anyone hooked this up into some sort of switch. Anything I can do, to get a 100% positive to work fix for my problem.

I bring up the OP1.3 because the one I tried using yesterday DOES NOT have a reflash plug on it so therefore it wont work on my EVOLUTION 8 ECU. Since ALL 98+ Mitsubishi's Need this Reflash Adaptor BS. And I know Half of the Tactrix people use the 1.3. Yes I do know which ECU I have because I pulled it from the Evolution 8 and are using the Tephra V7 rom! Still, off topic.

I'm sorry if my first statement of using a OP2 was confusing. I have been using an Evolution 8 ECU (once again it doesn't matter because all 98+ Mitsubishi's use the same damn Pin 79) for a while. But only having an issue with Whatever the signal is that the OP2.0 is supposed to be sending through the reflash adaptor.

I hope my new explanation of my problem helps out. I'm sorry in advance if it comes off rude. But please understand my frusteration when you are having this problem 3 quarter of the time you try it. All you can do is log, you cannot burn. Idiots tell you its a voltage issue with your car, start the car for a minute and then boom problem is gone! That is BS. I've tested that theory and with perfect voltage throughout the entire system it still fails. Starting the car, shutting off the car, shooting the car, does not help. All I can do is keep trying day after day until one day it feels like getting off its rag time of the month and letting me flash my damn car!

Once again, thanks in advance and sorry for any rudeness that may have come off. Just very irritated.

***EDIt*** I'm uploading a video right now showing my problem. Maybe it will help shed light on the situation. Before I end up just burning the car to the ground.

 

[delta448]

The difference is the way that the write to ECU mode is enabled. On the H8 processor (DSM) ECUs, the power to enter write mode must be supplied through the cable and reflash connector, and it is significant enough that it can't be generated through the 1.3, which is why the 2.0 must be used. On the Evo 8 ECU, the voltage to write is automatically generated internally on the ECU board once pin 79 sees the lower power signal which can adequately be supplied by a 1.3 cable.

I don't know for sure what the voltage/current requirements are for a DSM ECU to be set to write mode, although for some reason I'm thinking that I heard the signal needed was over 12volts. If you get the chance, ask Ceddy. He could tell you exactly what you'd need to do in order to wire a toggle switch to your H8 ECU to enable writing.

With my 1.3 and Evo ECU, I use a patch harness with pin 79 connected to a length of wire I routed out the side of my console. On the end of that wire I crimped a male spade connector. I snipped the little white reflash plug off my 1.3 and crimped a female spade to that. I've not had any issues with entering write mode using that, unlike with the white connector and the OEM reflash socket.

 

[InfiniteGSX]

The difference is the way that the write to ECU mode is enabled. On the H8 processor (DSM) ECUs, the power to enter write mode must be supplied through the cable and reflash connector, and it is significant enough that it can't be generated through the 1.3, which is why the 2.0 must be used. On the Evo 8 ECU, the voltage to write is automatically generated internally on the ECU board once pin 79 sees the lower power signal which can adequately be supplied by a 1.3 cable.
I'm sorry but no, the Evo8 Must run the Reflash connector also. Just like the H8. All Mitsubishi's do from what I have read. If it was internal, the 1.3 I tried last night would have worked. On the How to Install Evo8 ECU in 2g thread it talks about installing this wire the same that Ceddy does.. Just not as much detail. Which was the first thing I installed when I was tuning the H8 back in the day when it was new. I did the solder the female pin to a Mono 2.5mm audio jack as stated in the how to for both the Evo8 and H8. And then you put that wire in the Pin79 of the ECU Harness. I tested that wire I made from the tip of each end and it is good. So Thats why IDK wtf is going on.
I don't know for sure what the voltage/current requirements are for a DSM ECU to be set to write mode, although for some reason I'm thinking that I heard the signal needed was over 12volts. If you get the chance, ask Ceddy. He could tell you exactly what you'd need to do in order to wire a toggle switch to your H8 ECU to enable writing.

Yeah, I just did my test of what my OpenPort 2.0 is doing when I get the problem. Its doing 17.7v. but its flashing it. Not like I could put direct current to that because thats only 12v vs almost 18v.
OpenPort 2.0 problem. - YouTube

video there shows what I'm doing to test the flash port and the error I get on the ECUFlash end. Which is sparatic. Lately it hasn't been working but sometimes it will randomly work when I don't "Need" it. I'm about ready to drive it off a cliff!

 

[delta448]

I'm sorry but no, the Evo8 Must run the Reflash connector also.

I did not say it didn't need to. -?

On the How to Install Evo8 ECU in 2g thread it talks about installing this wire the same that Ceddy does.. Just not as much detail. Which was the first thing I installed when I was tuning the H8 back in the day when it was new. I did the solder the female pin to a Mono 2.5mm audio jack as stated in the how to for both the Evo8 and H8. And then you put that wire in the Pin79 of the ECU Harness. I tested that wire I made from the tip of each end and it is good. So Thats why IDK wtf is going on.

I've always had a huge disliking with that phono plug crap. I knew the first time I read about that method, that I wouldn't be wiring mine that way. That's not the way it is meant to connect, so it's no wonder people have problems with it. But I already told you my solution for it.

Honestly, it sounds to me more like you have a dying battery or alternator. Log your battery voltage before you try to flash, is it over 12v?

 

[InfiniteGSX]

I did not say it didn't need to. -?


I've always had a huge disliking with that phono plug crap. I knew the first time I read about that method, that I wouldn't be wiring mine that way. That's not the way it is meant to connect, so it's no wonder people have problems with it. But I already told you my solution for it.

Honestly, it sounds to me more like you have a dying battery or alternator. Log your battery voltage before you try to flash, is it over 12v?

I've already been through this, I do not have a dying brand new battery. Battery is steady 12v without the car on. With the car on the alternator runs around 14v. And on top of that, I tried to test this problem by putting the car on a battery charger in order to keep the voltage at tip top shape during reads or flashes and still failure. I have done the startup of the car for a few minutes in order to get the charge up and then shut it off and try to read right after that because people say that some voltage will be lurking in the system till it hits its steady voltage. Doesn't work at all.

I just bought the battery and alternator. And had both tested before installation. I just replaced my previous battery and alternator because of that assumption.

What do you mean thats not a good way of connecting? how else are we supposed to connect? I have a 97 which didn't come with the Reflash plug like the 98+ cars have. And even the reflash plug has the 2.5mm audio jack on it:

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I've never even seen a plug like that reflash connector has. I was going to go to U Pull It since there are a couple 3rd gens there and pull it and all of its wire. but what I read up, its just routing to pin 79 is it not?

***EDIT*** Just took this picture now. Direct from my fuse box. Since I can't pull up a log right now due to installing a new copy of windows on my laptop.

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[delta448]

Patience please, I am trying my best to help you.

I guess I wasn't completely aware of how the 2.0 cable is built. I've not used one. I have a 1.3U cable; with it there is a single wire coming off the back side of the OBD2 plug which is used for the signal to pin 79. That's the wire I spliced directly to the Evo 8 ECU patch harness.

When you have this issue, are you able to connect to the ECU to log? Or is it only when trying to flash? I'm now wondering if your factory wiring to the OBD2 plug may be suspect, since you've established it's an issue isolated to only your car.

 

[InfiniteGSX]

Oh... The OP1.3 I tried yesterday didn't have any wire coming off of it besides the USB Wire. I instantly knew it wouldn't work.

Logging works just fine, and EVERY TIME! It pulls the DTC's just fine. Doesn't allow me to enable any actuators. Doesn't Read or Write in ECUFlash.

I first thought it was the OP2. So I installed ECUFlash 1.43 which installed newer drivers and upgraded the OP's firmware. Thought it was going to be better because it shows up on the computer as a straight USB Device instead of a comm port. Still gave the same errors. Then I tried to use it with the new drivers in EvoScan... it doesn't see the USB OpenPort. So I had to revert back to the older drivers. For some reason EvoScan's website doesn't allow me to download the new 2.9 version. when I'm logged in, it is a blank screen where the download should be.

Maybe it is my OBD2 Plug. Its a 1997 Car with a Evo8 ECU. I followed the 2g->Evo8 ECU Install on Tuners. Worked out great. After having this issue for a couple days and randomly it working allowing me to shut off the Imobilizer and tuning it some, the car runs pretty good.

But, I wouldn't know how to figure out if the pins on my OBD2 Plug are wired right. I never messed with them. I just installed the Evo8 and went from there.

And I appreciate all help. Its just getting overwhelming.

 

[InfiniteGSX]

GOT IT! There was 0 Voltage issues. Nothing was wrong with my open port. Or my car. It was the flash cable. .... When I first did this to my 97 Harness, a friend was telling me how to wire it up. I used a wire/pin thats only used on automatic cars and soldered in some wire. Then soldered that wire to a Mono 2.5mm jack.

Well from my last tests after a friend with an Evo9 failed.... I started messing with some things. Mainly the 2.5mm stereo jack that comes with the open port. I held the two together with the stereo one in the open port... Just holding them together at the tips with my fingers.

What do you know, IT WORKED! MULTIPLE TIMES IN A ROW!

From what I can guess, it was the size and quality of the wire I used. It was decently sized copper strand wire. Figured it would be good because I wouldn't have any connection issues. But from the looks of it its that, that caused the problem. Not enough resistance. The wire inside the stereo cable that comes with the open port is severely thin. So much more resistance.

So I cut the wire in half and shortened the pin I had to put in number 79 down to an inch. Soldered that stuff together, cleaned it up and wrapped it. Its been reading and writing every time now.