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1G Don’t buy a pre fab roll cage

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I am afraid I don’t fully understand your question, possibly because I just woke up.

One thing I should have stated in my previous post so nobody gets misled and builds a bad design off my picture is that my a pillar design will fail in quite a few different sets of rule books. Mine attaches to the lower windshield/dash bar which has vertical bars under it attaching to the floor. There are many top fuel cars designed like this however they have so much other bracing I could see wherever it would be acceptable. I do not recommend anyone’s does a 2 piece a pillar design like I chose to do. I have included pictures for reference so people know what not to do. The cage was cut out and redone in the same manner for other reasons which is why I have a cutaway picture.
 

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I felt going I to this that I had done adequate research though there seems to be more then is explained in the NHRA guidelines, I fully expect to be in the 7s with this car and might have to do more research
 
I am afraid I don’t fully understand your question, possibly because I just woke up.

One thing I should have stated in my previous post so nobody gets misled and builds a bad design off my picture is that my a pillar design will fail in quite a few different sets of rule books. Mine attaches to the lower windshield/dash bar which has vertical bars under it attaching to the floor. There are many top fuel cars designed like this however they have so much other bracing I could see wherever it would be acceptable. I do not recommend anyone’s does a 2 piece a pillar design like I chose to do. I have included pictures for reference so people know what not to do. The cage was cut out and redone in the same manner for other reasons which is why I have a cutaway picture.
The 8 point section is done , I want to make the front 10 point section. Making bars that go from the front to the a piller. I don’t know how I’m going to do with the clearance I have
 
You have to get creative. Some people cut the floor out and drop it all down. I cut my roof skin off and hole saw’d the roof frame to have access, which I don’t recommend anyone else do. Most people don’t weld everything out till they have it all done. That allows them to weld the hard parts first then fit the rest.
 
You have to get creative. Some people cut the floor out and drop it all down. I cut my roof skin off and hole saw’d the roof frame to have access, which I don’t recommend anyone else do. Most people don’t weld everything out till they have it all done. That allows them to weld the hard parts first then fit the rest.
im not talking about welding, im just talking about making the bend period. I dont know how the hell im going to be able to make it work
 
it was going to have a halo bar initially, Id like a continuous bar from the front up to the a pillar. I dont know how im going to design it with the proper clearance.
 

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It’ll be a multi-plane bend and it won’t be easy, especially if you go through the dash. This is why I welded mine to the lower windshield bar and why most people make cages that fit like garbage.
 
The bender finally came In and I’m already upgrading to the air, hydraulic setup. The 8 point is completely finished..... should pass tech. Going to start making the 10 point sections tmrw. If anyone is interested swag off-road makes a dope conversion it , it was 190 shipped. All you need to buy then is a harbor freight 8 ton air jack. Worth every penny in my book
 

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Keeping it movin
 

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Cage is officially finished. I’m going to keep it an 8 point until I need more..... if I ever do that is
 

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I felt going I to this that I had done adequate research though there seems to be more then is explained in the NHRA guidelines, I fully expect to be in the 7s with this car and might have to do more research

To go faster than 8.50 you need something like this.
 

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Yeah, that might be for another build, once I'd seen how much further you need to take the cage I realized its something I could never take on the street so that in addition to not wanting to rebuild parts in the drivetrain every 20 or so passes has me reassessing the build some.
 
that wont pass tech as it sits as the bars for a 10 pt aren't big enough in diameter as what they require for an 8pt.
Did I f*** myself? I needed 1 3/4 didnt I for 8 point, I have no choice but to finish the 10 , im running chromoly 1 5/8 .083 wall
 
Did I f*** myself? I needed 1 3/4 didnt I for 8 point, I have no choice but to finish the 10 , im running chromoly 1 5/8 .083 wall
yea by the rules an 8pt has to be 1-3/4 .083. i mean if the track you run at isnt too strickt you might be able to get away with it but i know some tracks are by the book LOL
 
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To go faster than 8.50 you need something like this.
So im sitting here looking at the car. When I installed the halo it was a few inches away from the side of my helmet. Is this how it is? I mean like if your sitting in the cockpit the and tip your head to the left its very close. Is this why they require padding? Im going to try and make the bends as tight to the roof line as possible.
 
that wont pass tech as it sits as the bars for a 10 pt aren't big enough in diameter as what they require for an 8pt.
How does this bend look? Bent it around the cage. This should pass no?
 

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by any change is the preformed roll cage you bought originally from Summit Racing? if not does anyone know how the Summit racing
Rhodes Race Cars Competition Roll Cages 13-2118
 
by any change is the preformed roll cage you bought originally from Summit Racing? if not does anyone know how the Summit racing
Rhodes Race Cars Competition Roll Cages 13-2118
I purchased it from Rhodes , make sure you hey the 1 3/4 , don’t waste your money on chromo ,not worth it
 
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