Doing BSE, how to support engine?

[juntjoo]

So I'm about to remove the balance shafts and replace the timing belt and have been reading the vfaq articles on both

Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

&

Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)

to prepare myself but I'm confused on how I should support the engine, particularly for how I will be lowering the engine to make clearance to remove the upper balance shaft. The article on BSE assumes you've made your choice on how to support the engine which suggested by the timing belt replacement article can be done with either the special tool (#C-4852), or just use a jack and some wood.

So I'm wondering from any of you out there who've done this job with the engine inside the car(I won't be taking it out. I looked into that as I've read some of you suggest doing since having the engine out would be very easy, but GETTING it out looks really hard, not to mention putting it back in) how best to support the engine. Would the special tool allow the engine to be lowered enough? I'm worried that one way might not allow the engine to drop low enough, or just be much harder to do so than the alternative.

Anyway, Thanks for your help in advance. I'm about to embark on this journey soon and I need some luck to get it done quickly and successfully as my other car that I'm driving is about to fall apart at any of several broken or quickly wearing parts, and I drive for a living.

You know, I just realized that a jack, of course, would allow the engine to lower as far as you'd like just about, but thinking ahead I would imagine using the special tool from above would take the jack out of underneath the engine under the car giving me more space to work from down there so I think I'd prefer using that tool.

So I guess my revised question to anyone with experience with this out there is if this tool or possibly something else similar allows the engine to be lowered. Thanks again.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Dealership, get s.s from vendors cheap enough, never rust stm, sells them they look great, steps to pulling engine since ive done it, takes a few hours. A hoist, and its out like i said good practice too, a great way to replace those hard to get to things for mainteance.

 

[juntjoo]

Dealership, get s.s from vendors cheap enough, never rust stm, sells them they look great, steps to pulling engine since ive done it, takes a few hours. A hoist, and its out like i said good practice too, a great way to replace those hard to get to things for mainteance.

Sorry, didn't get those two acronyms probably ### I'm a newb but besides that I couldn't quite follow the grammar in there. Could ya clarify a little? Thanks. Sorry

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[92AWDHX40]

Ok i get my parts from dealership, or vendors on here.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Depends on the bolt, in my opinion. If it is something extremely critical or specific (for example, flywheel bolts), definitely get a Mitsubishi part. If it is something that is otherwise impossible to find, obviously get a Mitsubishi part (for example, a 43.5mm long transmission mounting bolt). But for something like oil pan bolts, I'd have no problem going to the hardware or auto parts store and picking up a handful. In some cases you can get away with using a different length bolt; in others, like the oil pan, it is important to use the correct length. Going to the dealer eliminates any guesswork you may have, but expect to pay for that reassurance.

On the other hand, your bolts probably aren't that bad. Try lightly taking a wire wheel to them and see how well they clean up.

 

[juntjoo]

Thanks!

 

[juntjoo]

now I'm stuck under the car slowly laboring to remove the rusty 17mm bolts off the center member to lower the engine. I'm using an about 16" flex head 1/2" ratchet with like a 4" extension. I can manage like almost a foot of a turn with each try and have resorted to using my feet to help when my cramped upper body gets fatigued. at this rate it could take a long long time. if anyone has a better method/tool to suggest i'd appreciate it. i may grab a bigger jack to raise the car up a bit more as the jack stands can raise higher than my jack can support, but that's all I can figure out to make this easier at this point.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

now I'm stuck under the car slowly laboring to remove the rusty 17mm bolts off the center member to lower the engine. I'm using an about 16" flex head 1/2" ratchet with like a 4" extension. I can manage like almost a foot of a turn with each try and have resorted to using my feet to help when my cramped upper body gets fatigued. at this rate it could take a long long time. if anyone has a better method/tool to suggest i'd appreciate it. i may grab a bigger jack to raise the car up a bit more as the jack stands can raise higher than my jack can support, but that's all I can figure out to make this easier at this point.

Soak it in PB blaster or similar. I'm guessing you don;t have access to an impact? If you don't need the extension then don't use it, it generally works better when your ratchet is closer to the bolt. Keep at it, hopefully it doesn't snap.

 

[juntjoo]

Soak it in PB blaster or similar. I'm guessing you don;t have access to an impact? If you don't need the extension then don't use it, it generally works better when your ratchet is closer to the bolt. Keep at it, hopefully it doesn't snap.

Thanks. Yeah, no impact wrench, wondering if it might b worth investing in. don't know about that stuff tho. That's air powered right? So I'd need an air compressor? Anyway, problem with these bolts under there is they I can't quite reach the threads as they're under and behind the head of the bolts that have to work with. I've been spraying wd40 up there but I doubt it's reaching the stuck parts. Any way on getting that pb blaster stuff up where I need it? Thanks
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[92AWDHX40]

Possibly, but you may need a impact gun electric ones are made got me one from harbor freight, makes life soo much easier.

 

[juntjoo]

Alright, thanks. I'm on my way. I'll give them a look. Wait, should I consider getting one with the best warranty? HF stuff have good warranties?

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[92AWDHX40]

Yes i would get the replacement worth its worth it, or extended warranty.

 

[juntjoo]

How many ft-lbs of torque would be sufficient? I'm at sears now looking at a $300 Dewalt With about 300 ft-lbs of torque. Looking at more of the selection seems like you pay about $100 per 100 ft-lbs of torque. Remember I'm dealing with rusty 17mm bolts(btw, what are the largest bolts in this car?) and I plan on working on this car and my civic for the long haul. Just recently decided to divorce my mechanic and do all I could on my own to save money but really to learn and because I enjoy working on cars.

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[Nasty Dream]

A repair manual will list the torque.

There's an online manual. Shouldn't be hard to find with Google.

 

[91boostfedGSX]

Lots easier with the block out of the engine, to pull the shaft out, i wouldnt even try with the engine in but thats me.

Wait wait wait.....wha? Block out of the engine? Lol.

Personally its pretty damn simple to pull these motors. Like previously stated if you know what your doing its about 30- an hour...that's what I would do

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[juntjoo]

Wait wait wait.....wha? Block out of the engine? Lol.

Personally its pretty damn simple to pull these motors. Like previously stated if you know what your doing its about 30- an hour...that's what I would do

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I'm sure that by the time I finish this job and I realize how much longer it took than I expected I will wish I had planned to remove the engine, but once I get my mind set on something it's set and I've already got this cross member part half way off and once I finish that and then detach the AC bracket the engine will miraculously lower itself accompanied by a magical chime of a harp. Then I'll just pull that b#@&! out. Done

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