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Do I need to build my head for my goals????

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dwdsm

15+ Year Contributor
564
27
Apr 28, 2005
Scenery Hill, Pennsylvania
OK
My goals are to see an 11.999 time slip on a BB 50 trim that I just bought. I have dsmlink, comp 200 cams, and a built bottom end.All the supporting mods..My head is a stock rebuild and my shop is trying to talk me into at least springs and retainers.It will see only a few tracks a season and is a car only driven when the weather is nice... What should I do with the head? Will a stock head/valvetrain hold up to 25 psi up to 7,500 RPM? Or just get it done since it's all apart now any way? Input please..I'm looking for reliability people!
BTW it's a 6 bolt.
 
Honest opinion, if its all apart and money is not a issue then its not going to hurt to do it now and you will know for a fact it will withstand the track time, and also if you choose to upgrade AGAIN down the road b/c it is a curse after all with these cars
 
I'd also say it depends on budget at this stage of the game. If you have the money, why not? At least for the reassurance factor. But the stock springs and retainers could handle 7500rpm.
 
the simple answer is no. it is not necessary to build your head to hit 11's. with the mods you already have in your car, you should hit 11's no problem. there is no real need to even rev the car that high just to obtain your goals. one thing that i see you needing is cam gears though, which will make the cams that much more effective. i personally believe that you will get nearly as much power with a smim and a larger throttle body, especially if you are still running a 2g mani.

lets just give you this for comparison. i'm making 306awhp (mustang dyno) on a stock block, stock head (minus fp2). thats enough for me to touch 11's. so you'll be fine. BUT..if you have money to toss around..get the intake manifold and a throttle body and you'll be happy
 
Anyone ever have a stock valve fail and seperate on them?
I'm taking it tomorrow soooo I really need to decide....
 
the simple answer is no. it is not necessary to build your head to hit 11's. with the mods you already have in your car, you should hit 11's no problem. there is no real need to even rev the car that high just to obtain your goals. one thing that i see you needing is cam gears though, which will make the cams that much more effective. i personally believe that you will get nearly as much power with a smim and a larger throttle body, especially if you are still running a 2g mani.

lets just give you this for comparison. i'm making 306awhp (mustang dyno) on a stock block, stock head (minus fp2). thats enough for me to touch 11's. so you'll be fine. BUT..if you have money to toss around..get the intake manifold and a throttle body and you'll be happy

I'll pass on the cam gears..That's why I have dsmlink...Intake mani....I've thought about it but I don't think it's needed for my goals... If you search there is a comparison and the stock 1g intake mani shines in the midrange...Which Is what I want...
 
The stock valves are pretty strong. Even if you do float one you can hope it will only bend and not break. I have been occasionally(at the track) winding my stock head up to 7200-7300 with no problems. But that was also with stock cams.
 
I got a deal on springs and retainers (B crower) for $180. I think I'll get them and take a chance with the stock valves..
 
I have BC springs and retainers along with BC280's. Stock valves and stock head other the the springs and retainers. I rev the motor to 8500 all the time, 10+ times daily (when the car runs). I need another set of the BC valvetrain, where did you get it for 180?
 
Hell NO! You do not need to build the head for that power goal. People have run 9's! on the stock head with only cams. Time in my avatar was done with a bone stock head with 272s. Stock intake too and I can guarantee you that alot of people have gone much faster than that. Save your money. :thumb:
 
Is it already done???
I see these post were last weeks.

IF you haven't completed it yet.......
I'm with your shop on this one. I say 'YES' to Springs and Retainers.
You don't need to do any port work, or valve jobs, but with that size cam it would be a good idea to do dual springs. I know, I know, people say better springs are not "required", but I bet there is slight valve float at high RPM, especially with high mileage stock springs.

If the head is off the car, and apart... Go with upgraded springs and retainers.
Its smart building, and good insurance. A good built engine will save you money in the end.
 
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