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DIY Denso COP (no CDI required)

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So you want to ditch your 30 year old coils and plug wires for something cleaner, but don't want the issues that come with running 300m coils in wasted spark, or the problematic CDI's that tie in with the 300m COP.

The EVO community has been using Denso coils for COP with great success in 800+ hp setups with no CDI required. They're a cheap, reliable and comparatitvely powerful coil to the stock DSM coils, however these can eliminate the factory ignition control module, factory coil packs, and the spark plug wires all in one.

If you're looking for an ignition improvement over the factory DSM coil packs, chances are these are not going to improve over good OEM coils.

There are a few guys that have been successfully running these in DSM's, but I have yet to find a good guide on wiring them and having proper tach functions as you will be eliminating the PTU at the same time. I like the cleanliness of COP and I will say in comparison they are a better setup all around, I run a sparktech kit using the same coils on the 2.3/FP black in my EVO and have had zero issues with it the past 8 or so years it's been on there.

The reason these work so much better than the 300m coils is due to the fact that the 300m coils have to be wired in series to be properly fired by the factory PCM. Wired in parallel has too much load due to their resistance and will either blow up the PTU or blow up the driver in the ecu. Wiring them in series however drops their output way lower than they would be if fired sequentially. The Denso coils have a built in igniter so the computer doesn't carry any of the load of the coil firing, which allows us to wire them "sequentially" but still fire them as a wasted spark coil like stock.

Into the guide, what you'll need:

4x Denso coils - Prius coils are what SparkTech uses for their Evo COP, however almost any 4 wire Toyota coil will work fine as long as it's the same style as the Prius coils. In my pictures I'm using some random Toyota coil packs that I had laying at work. You're looking for this style ideally
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Next you need 4x matching connectors- Spoolin Up used to sell these as pin your own kits, you can also find these online from various vendors. I pulled mine from a junkyard Toyota. Just make sure they're 4 wire and you'll be good to go.
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Next you'll need a small length of wire or if you're cutting out junkyard connectors remove as much of the harness as you can with them.

Next on the list is either a junk 2g MAF, like I used, or if someone knows where to get a male PTU connector as a pin-it kit I'll gladly edit that in. I asked ECMTuning, Ohm Racing, and a few other manufactures on obtaining a male either 2g MAF connector or the PTU connector and none of them got back to me on it. The 2g MAF uses the correct connector and they aren't too hard to gut out of the MAFs housing.
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You'll need to figure out a mounting plate for hold the coils. I traced a plug wire cover onto a sheet of aluminum and cut mine out with an angle grinder. The plate is setup for Prius coils, however, since I didn't have Prius coils on hand when I assembled it for testing I had to put some nuts under the coils to mount properly. As far as I know no one makes a plate for these off hand.

Wiring for these is fairly simple, we'll go back to the picture posted above of the connector to start.
On the Coil Connector:
Pin #1 is the 12v feed.
Pin #2 is a tach output signal.
Pin #3 is the trigger to fire the coil.
Pin #4 is the ground.

On the MAF/PTU connector: (you'll have 8 male pin slots in the connector itself, but only 7 legs on the back side. The 2g MAF doesn't use pin 8 so go to the side of the connector with the missing pin and mark it so you know which side is pin 8.)
Pin #2 - Combine Pin #3 for Denso coils 2 and 3, these 2 wires will run to Pin #1 of the MAF connector. Trigger B
Pin #3 - Combine all of Pin #4 wires off the Denso coils, they all run to Pin #3 of the MAF connector. Ground
Pin #4 - Combine Pin #2 from Denso coils 1* and 2*, these 2 wires will run to Pin #4 of the MAF connector. Tach Output
Pin #6 - Combine all of the Pin #1 wires off the Denso coils, they're all going to be run to Pin #6 of the MAF connector. 12v coil feed.
Pin #7 - Combine Pin #3 for Denso coils 1 and 4, these 2 wires will run to Pin #7 of the MAF connector. Trigger A

*Note: These wires are the tach output, if you combine all 4 coils together you'll have double the RPM reading on your tach. We combine 1 and 2 as they're on opposite banks of the firing order. You can combine 1/2, 1/3, 2/4, or 3/4 and still get the same accurate RPM reading, 1/2 are just closest to the connector and require the least amount of wiring. If you don't have these combined properly you're tach will not work properly.

I used crimp on connectors and then solder them to the MAF connector. This isn't the most ideal way to do this and where a pin kit would be much nicer. It is solid and works fine though for now.
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Loom the wiring, plug everything in, test to make sure it runs on all 4 cylinders and the tach is reading accurate. Then you can remove both the stock coil packs and the ignition module and enjoy the new COP setup.

I'm currently using these on my 91 galant with a 210K mile stock 6 bolt with an FP red and supporting mods. I didn't have any issues with my original coils, but I like that I was able to ditch a couple fail points of the stock ignition system. There's definitely cleaner ways to orient these, but the angle on these specific coils made it a pain.

This should work on a 90 as well, however, you'll need a different male connector and the wiring is slightly different. My 90 is currently still tore apart in the back corner of my garage, but I do plan to update this guide with the proper 1990 wiring specs.

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There's a guy on eBay selling the male PTU connector. Just ordered one myself.

I have it, but haven't ordered the Denso Coils yet, due to waiting time on the CNC plates for the Yaris COP.

As soon as I install it all, I will post photos of the wiring and the whole setup, but the connector makes things tidy and easy to do.
 
Finally got around bro firing up the DSM fired up and ran great. Had to swap the firing order on the coils though.
That's awesome! I'm almost done with the projects I have for the car, and next in line will be the COP stuff, I am now contemplating to go R35 coil route, they are almost the same price (oem wise) as the Yaris ones, but they are 3 pin, so that's offputting a little, but they do offer stronger spark and closer dwell times to OEM than Yaris (shouldn't burn up)...
 
The only issue I am worried about is on long drives and with heat. I’d like the car to be as daily driveable as possible and possibly drive it to the Shootout 10 hours away, make a run and drive it back. More then likely still doing it but there’s that chance of issues.
 
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Yaris coils have a higher default dwell time. Making it closer to the DSM coils.

 
Yaris coils have a higher default dwell time. Making it closer to the DSM coils.

That's the only reason why I'm still holding back on the COP until I can transition to Haltech and do it properly. I've heard of a few people in our community where they melt and crack and cause all kinds of problems after longer drives etc... For people who barely take out these cars it may be fine, but to be 100% reliable as our stock ignition, I'm sure you'd need a standalone and do it properly
 
So you want to ditch your 30 year old coils and plug wires for something cleaner, but don't want the issues that come with running 300m coils in wasted spark, or the problematic CDI's that tie in with the 300m COP.

The EVO community has been using Denso coils for COP with great success in 800+ hp setups with no CDI required. They're a cheap, reliable and comparatitvely powerful coil to the stock DSM coils, however these can eliminate the factory ignition control module, factory coil packs, and the spark plug wires all in one.

If you're looking for an ignition improvement over the factory DSM coil packs, chances are these are not going to improve over good OEM coils.

There are a few guys that have been successfully running these in DSM's, but I have yet to find a good guide on wiring them and having proper tach functions as you will be eliminating the PTU at the same time. I like the cleanliness of COP and I will say in comparison they are a better setup all around, I run a sparktech kit using the same coils on the 2.3/FP black in my EVO and have had zero issues with it the past 8 or so years it's been on there.

The reason these work so much better than the 300m coils is due to the fact that the 300m coils have to be wired in series to be properly fired by the factory PCM. Wired in parallel has too much load due to their resistance and will either blow up the PTU or blow up the driver in the ecu. Wiring them in series however drops their output way lower than they would be if fired sequentially. The Denso coils have a built in igniter so the computer doesn't carry any of the load of the coil firing, which allows us to wire them "sequentially" but still fire them as a wasted spark coil like stock.

Into the guide, what you'll need:

4x Denso coils - Prius coils are what SparkTech uses for their Evo COP, however almost any 4 wire Toyota coil will work fine as long as it's the same style as the Prius coils. In my pictures I'm using some random Toyota coil packs that I had laying at work. You're looking for this style ideally
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Next you need 4x matching connectors- Spoolin Up used to sell these as pin your own kits, you can also find these online from various vendors. I pulled mine from a junkyard Toyota. Just make sure they're 4 wire and you'll be good to go.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Next you'll need a small length of wire or if you're cutting out junkyard connectors remove as much of the harness as you can with them.

Next on the list is either a junk 2g MAF, like I used, or if someone knows where to get a male PTU connector as a pin-it kit I'll gladly edit that in. I asked ECMTuning, Ohm Racing, and a few other manufactures on obtaining a male either 2g MAF connector or the PTU connector and none of them got back to me on it. The 2g MAF uses the correct connector and they aren't too hard to gut out of the MAFs housing.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You'll need to figure out a mounting plate for hold the coils. I traced a plug wire cover onto a sheet of aluminum and cut mine out with an angle grinder. The plate is setup for Prius coils, however, since I didn't have Prius coils on hand when I assembled it for testing I had to put some nuts under the coils to mount properly. As far as I know no one makes a plate for these off hand.

Wiring for these is fairly simple, we'll go back to the picture posted above of the connector to start.
On the Coil Connector:
Pin #1 is the 12v feed.
Pin #2 is a tach output signal.
Pin #3 is the trigger to fire the coil.
Pin #4 is the ground.

On the MAF/PTU connector: (you'll have 8 male pin slots in the connector itself, but only 7 legs on the back side. The 2g MAF doesn't use pin 8 so go to the side of the connector with the missing pin and mark it so you know which side is pin 8.)
Pin #2 - Combine Pin #3 for Denso coils 2 and 3, these 2 wires will run to Pin #1 of the MAF connector. Trigger B
Pin #3 - Combine all of Pin #4 wires off the Denso coils, they all run to Pin #3 of the MAF connector. Ground
Pin #4 - Combine Pin #2 from Denso coils 1* and 2*, these 2 wires will run to Pin #4 of the MAF connector. Tach Output
Pin #6 - Combine all of the Pin #1 wires off the Denso coils, they're all going to be run to Pin #6 of the MAF connector. 12v coil feed.
Pin #7 - Combine Pin #3 for Denso coils 1 and 4, these 2 wires will run to Pin #7 of the MAF connector. Trigger A

*Note: These wires are the tach output, if you combine all 4 coils together you'll have double the RPM reading on your tach. We combine 1 and 2 as they're on opposite banks of the firing order. You can combine 1/2, 1/3, 2/4, or 3/4 and still get the same accurate RPM reading, 1/2 are just closest to the connector and require the least amount of wiring. If you don't have these combined properly you're tach will not work properly.

I used crimp on connectors and then solder them to the MAF connector. This isn't the most ideal way to do this and where a pin kit would be much nicer. It is solid and works fine though for now.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Loom the wiring, plug everything in, test to make sure it runs on all 4 cylinders and the tach is reading accurate. Then you can remove both the stock coil packs and the ignition module and enjoy the new COP setup.

I'm currently using these on my 91 galant with a 210K mile stock 6 bolt with an FP red and supporting mods. I didn't have any issues with my original coils, but I like that I was able to ditch a couple fail points of the stock ignition system. There's definitely cleaner ways to orient these, but the angle on these specific coils made it a pain.

This should work on a 90 as well, however, you'll need a different male connector and the wiring is slightly different. My 90 is currently still tore apart in the back corner of my garage, but I do plan to update this guide with the proper 1990 wiring specs.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I noticed you said that you wired this for a 91 4g63t. Would this same wiring instructions work on a 95-99 2g or are the pins different?
 
So how much have you tested this setup? My experience with some specific Denso coils similar to these is that this wiring setup can fail in unexpected ways. If you haven't tested this then I strongly suggest everyone take caution with this approach. Here's why.

My experience with similar Denso coils from some year Camry (I'm drawing a blank right now, but they look very similar to these) is that their maximum charge time is almost half of what a DSM ECU is hardcoded for (with exception of the black box ECUs as I think you can edit the dwell table there). My specific coils I found at 12V really could only tolerate a charge time around 3.2ms per their tech sheets, compared to the stock DSM charge time of I think 6.8ms? I forget, I have the dwell table somewhere.

What I found was when wiring my coils directly like you're describing let the car idle, and even drive at very low RPM, but as I started driving the coils stopped working (they completely stopped firing), yet would work after a power cycle (again, only idling, would crap out if I revved the engine). In the technical documents on my coils I found they had a failure mode that triggers when the coils are overcharged to prevent destruction/damage to the coils. What I realized was happening was as car RPM went up my voltage went up and coils were overcharging as my alternator voltage output was jumping above the idle voltage, and the dwell map was mapping out a dwell time way too long for these coils to tolerate at the given voltage. The stock dwell map as I pointed out is already way using a dwell time across the voltage range that is almost double what my coils are spec'd for, and honestly I'm surprised they even idled considering how far off spec this configuration was.

My solution was to develop a dwell reduction circuit, one that would intercept the firing trigger signal and delay it appropriately to map to the desired dwell times for the coils. This fixed my problem, and I've raced successfully on this setup for a few years now. Not something everyone is capable of doing and I turned over ownership of it to Spoolinup that produces Evo coil-on-plug systems as he sponsors me and provided the coils and wiring for me to play with.
I believe this is happening to me, my car would work fine for a couple hours then out of the blue it wouldn't start, no tach signal nothing. I tried it on another car and the same issue. I it was going into failure mode just as you said. Sooo is there a special harness I can purchase to fix this problem?
 
Hello Guys, I'm planning to install these Denso Coils 673-1306. I'm using ECM LInk V3 on my car. Do I need to lower dwell time to make these coils work properly? If so, Is there any trick to to do it using ECM Link? @Tyeler18 , what's your experience so far?

 
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