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Articles: Electrical & Wiring

Member-submitted articles related to DSM electrical and wiring.
I see more EVO 1, 2, 3 in North America lately. The engine and drivetrain are very similar to DSM/GVR4, so I think there is no problem to find info for repairs, but I see some people are struggling with electrical issues because of a lack of info. It seems there is not many FSM shared on the internet or I'm not sure if they even exists in English.I have the factory electrical circuit diagrams. But those are paper books and in Japanese. I decided to make it as a PDF file little by little while staying home due to the covid-19 mess, but I would take long to complete since I need to translate from Japanese to English. So if there is someone who really needs some diagram as soon as possible, just let me know. I would take a pic of the specific diagram you need and upload it in this thread to share.I will post each time when I complete each section/chapter.It's for EVO 2, but I think almost the same as EVO 3 and I believe the most of part can be used for EVO 1, too. I tried to pick up only the EVO's infos but some diagrams are shared with 4G9, so just follow the one that says 4G63. Please excuse any errors/typos in translation, if there is.Note : I do not take any responsibility for any damage or loss caused through these infos.
In this guide I will be describing how I replaced the MPI relay for a 1990 Eclipse GSX with 3 Bosch-style relays. This approach is useful if you had a MPI relay go out and you don't want to pay over $100 for a new one or if you are worried about sourcing one of these units in time for a track-side repair. Keep in mind that at the end of the day it's probably still quicker/easier to just buy a new MPI relay but as these get harder to find I like the idea of having an alternative strategy.Disclaimers:This has not been tested very extensively. I put this in my car and it started/idled as it should which makes me feel pretty confident that this works. However, in testing this I determined that the rest of my wiring harness was too far gone to continue without redoing a lot of it first (it's a hot mess of shorts and random wires). I will continue to use these relays after I get the rest of my harness more sorted and will update this post then. I believe this would work for any 1990-1994 4G63 cars as the MPI relays I’ve seen for sale are advertised as working for all these cars but I have only tested this on my 1990 GSX so proceed with caution if you have a newer 1G. If you know a reason why this shouldn't work for other 1Gs it would be much appreciated if you left a comment here!Guide: First step is to remove the old MPI relay from your car. It looks like a small golden box and is located in front of the ECU under the radio. Just remove the two bolts holding it on in this location. Then unplug the relay from the connector so you can remove the relay from the car. For me it was easiest to use needle-nosed pliers to get the connector off.Once you have removed the relay from the car I would highly recommend maneuvering the connector back behind where the ECU is so that it is poking out in the location shown in the image below. This will give you a lot more slack to work with the wires as well as making it much easier to see what you are doing.The MPI relay is essentially three relays in one and we are just separating them out as seen in the diagram.For more info on how the MPI relay works check out this very helpful thread ( is the electrical diagram I made to show how the wiring should be done. The circles indicate wires that will need to be spliced together. The two letters on the MPI pins are labels indicating wire colors (I also tried to show this on the connections themselves, dashed line represents a white wire).I also included a diagram from Project Zero G's website which will help locate the MPI pins in the connector.How exactly you wire and mount your relays is up to you. I would recommend wiring up the splices that go between relays on the bench and then cutting off the old MPI connector and attaching the relays last. I found keeping good notes and labeling as much as possible to be very helpful, just like with most larger wiring projects.Feel free to let me know if you have questions. If there's demand for it, I could make a video going through this wiring diagram and showing in more detail how I wired the relays once I have tested this setup a bit more.Hope this is helpful.
With the 1990 model year being the trial production there were many differences from the later years. These diagrams help document the Early 1Ga ECU and MPI 4G63T wiring. The later model year diagrams are easily available but these weren't.
We'll start this with the standard disclaimer: This is a modification made to our car. The following article shows you how this was done. You alone take full responsibility for any modification you make to your own car.After having many cars pull out in front of us, seemingly not seeing our low-slung DSM, I wanted to have some lights to help us be seen. When I remembered, I would turn on the parking lights, but often I would forget, until some moron pulled a stupid move.I'm not generally a fan of Daytime Running Lights (DRL), but with all the work that goes into our cars, an insurance check and a body shop are not going to get us our cars back using today's Book values. So, I decided that the coolest I could make DRLs look, would be to run the fog lights alone.Here is the diagram of how to wire your fog lights for DRLs, without running your parking or headlights. The best part is, you can still override the fogs to stay off, by turning off the dash fog light switch.Here is the diagram of how I wired the circuit. You will need a 12vdc automotive relay -- generally handles 30Amps or more --, some heavy gauge wire, and several spade crimp connectors. We also bought the socket for the relay so that we could wire it up and solder the connections, and then simply plug the relay into the base, in case we ever need to replace the relay at some future date.The power to run the fog lamps comes from the battery connection. The power is not applied to the fog lamps unless there is power to the Radio fuse. We were careful about several things: 1) The connection to the Radio fuse is on the "Supply" side of the fuse, so that the power to run the relay was not passing through the Radio fuse itself. 2) The connection to the Fog Lamps fuse is on the "To Switch" side of the fuse. This runs the power through the dash switch so that it can be overridden for the Fog Lamps to remain off.Here are the pictures of the actual install. You can see the grounding connection with the blue crimp eyelet on it:The exposed portion of the wiring was wrapped in loom cover and sealed with electrical tape to help keep out the elements. The relay was attached right next to the fuse panel to keep the wire runs short.I had to notch the cover for the wires to exit, but you can see it makes for a stock-looking appearance:Now we can drive and always have some lights on the front to help drivers see us who might have looked right over the top of us before. If we need to idle the car, or run the engine for any reason that's not driving, we can punch the Fog Lamp switch and turn the DRLs off.
Greetings from Europe!While trying to diagnose my cruise control not working, I found out that my speed sensor signal is absent. I was looking for some information online on how to fix it and the only answer I found was - just replace the whole gauge-cluster. Well, as you might imagine, these cars are getting more and more rare, so "just go find in junkyard" option might not always be available.In this article I will guide you through how to test and fix speed sensor in 1g Eclipse for only 3 bucks and 30min of your time.The easiest way to test if your speed sensor works without disassembling any of the interior is C-65 connector right next to left driver's foot. We are looking for yellow-white pin 11.Connect your multimeter either in voltage oscilloscope mode or just continuity testing mode. Where the yellow-white pin as your positive and negative being grounding point anywhere in the car.If your reed-switch is fine: If testing with voltage oscilloscope, then turn on the cruise-control, as that should certainly give the needed 5V for the signal, if your ECU for some reason does not (I have evo8 ECU, so it doesn't provide required 5V) With oscilloscope you will see something like, where signal jumps between 4.9V-0V, when your car is movingWith continuity tester you should hear continuity switching on and off again when car is moving, when it's standing it can either always be off or always on (depending on the position of magnet in the dash)If your reed-switch is bad: It's either going to be always 0V or 5V (have continuity or not), regardless of car movement.So how do we fix it?Need to disassemble the dash and get our gauge cluster out: 1) Two screws on the bottom of the dash bezel 2) Two screws on the top of the dash bezel 3) One screw behind the C-shaped molding on the right from the gauges 3) Remove the bezel 4) Four screws should be holding gauges cluster 5) Carefully pull out the gauges cluster, it should go very easilyThen carefully disassemble the gauges cluster: 1) To remove the "odometer button" just pull it out (I was slightly spinning it while pulling, it went easier that way) 2) Remove the front glass 3) Remove two screws holding the speedometer gauge plate and pull it up, it should remove the speed indicator arrow as well (barbaric, but effective) 4) Now there are only couple of screws holding the speedometer assembly inside the cluster from the other sideNow when we have speedometer assembly out:You can go ahead and check once again the continuity between reed sensor pins while spinning the magnet, which is shown on the next image:Note: interestingly enough, speedometer might still be working, while the speed sensor is dead, that's because speedometer relies on magnet + coil, while the speed sensor relies on magnet + reed switch.If you confirm that reed switch is not changing the continuity (when you spin the magnet manually), then it's time to disassemble this whole thing. Note: that reed switch might still work fine and switch continuity, if you bring some bigger magnet and put next to it, but if the original magnet cannot make it switch, then it has to be replaced. 1) Remove two main screws holding assembly together from the face side 2) Remove two screws from the side, which are holding reed switch pins in place 3) Carefully remove reed switch assembly (reed switch assembly on the bottom, new reed switch on top, slightly smaller, but it doesn't matter) 4) Now you can split the assembly in half, be very careful doing that as all the plastic if quite brittle,Note: be aware of the coil stop arm marked on the image (you should be able to move it out of the way by pushing it with something thin) Yes, I broke the guiding pin of mine, that's why I'm mentioning this, but it's not critical, you will still be able to assemble everything back.Soldering time, bring your new reed-switch ("normally closed" type) which costs ~3 bucks here in EU. Oh and it doesn't have a polarity, so no worries. (new switch in place) You can test it without assembling anything - just use the bottom half of the assembly (where the reed switch is getting installed), and spin the magnet again.Congratulations, now assemble everything back in reverse order!PS: apologize for any weird wordings in english :)
Materials needed:-15 feet of 4-gauge power or ground wire. Available in many color options from car audio suppliers. Any color but red is okay. Red is universally used for the positive side battery connections so be very careful if you want to use red wire. -8 pair of gold plated ring connector ends for 4-gauge wire from same place. -Rosin core solder. -Wire ties (optional)Tools Needed: -Metric wrench. Socket wrench is good for most connections but you will need a flat wrench for the alternator connection. -Heat source for soldering. A small torch is good. -Wire cutters -KnifeProcedure:1. Cut eight lengths of cable: 1 Battery to firewall. 9” 2 Battery to R strut. 13” 3 Battery to throttle body. 12” 4 Throttle body to head. 12” 5 Head to exhaust. 12” 6 Battery to L strut. 42” 7 L strut to alternator. 40” 8 L strut to distributor. 16”2. Strip about ½ inch of insulation from each end of each cable.3. Slide an end on a cable and rig something to hold in so the end is lower than the cable.4. Heat the end with a torch, unroll several inches of solder wire and keep it in contact with the copper cable just above the end piece. When it’s hot enough the solder will melt. The cable will absorb solder like a sponge. Get plenty of it in there to saturate the end and for a complete bond.5. Attach all the ends to all the cables in the same manner.6. Slide the little black and red junction covers over each end; black on one end and red on the other.7. Attach the black end of cables 1,2,3, and 6 to the battery ground connector. It’s tight but they should all fit. If not you may need to get a new battery connector with a longer bolt. Remove the existing firewall cable but leave the block cable unless you intend to make a new one. USE CAUTION. Do not let the cables contact the positive battery terminal!8. Attach all the wires to the points listed above. The throttle body, and left strut tower are used as junction points to extend to other areas. There are three total connections on the left strut. I don’t think the ring connectors are big enough to use the actual strut mounting studs. I used the mounting bolt for an air conditioner hose. I had to replace the bolt (6mm I think) with a slightly longer one to hold all three connections and the bracket. Clean, scrape or sand each ground location to assure good contact.9. Tighten all nuts to specified torque.10. Start it up and feel the power!Ron Tew
This article is designed to help 2g owners identify all the plugs in the engine bay. \The photos and wire colors were based off of a 1999 Eclipse GSX, so other years and models may vary in location and wire color.I would like to give a HUGE thanks to turbosax2 for helping with the photography and the documentation for the article!!The way the tech article will be set up will be as follows:This post will have the master list of all the connectors. Each connector will then have it's own separate post below which will contain a little description and a few pictures and diagrams. The first picture will be an overview shot to show the general location of the plug. The plug will be circled in green. The next picture will show the plug itself. Following that will be a picture of the back of the plug to show how the wires are inserted into the plug as well as wire color. And lastly will be a diagram showing the arrangement/layout of the wires as well as the wire colors. These diagrams will always be viewed when looking at the back of the plug with the clip (the part that holds the plug in) on the top.Some descriptions will come from the service manual and others from Virtual Tour of the DSM Engine Bay - Quadrant map.Master List 1. Manifold Differential Pressure (MDP) Sensor 2. Fuel Injector 1 3. Fuel Injector 2 4. Fuel Injector 3 5. Fuel Injector 4 6. Ignition Coil (Coil Pack) 7. Ignition Power Transistor 8. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 9. Knock Sensor 10. Camshaft Position Sensor 11. Auto-Cruise Control Vacuum Pump (Cruise Control Actuator) 12. Volume Airflow Sensor [Mass Airflow Sensor (MAS)] 13. Fuel Pressure Solenoid (FPS) Valve 14. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Solenoid 15. Condenser Fan Motor [Air Conditioning (A/C) Fan] 16. Brake Fluid Level Switch 17. Radiator Fan Motor [Main Fan] 18. Hood Switch 19. Dual Pressure Switch (AC) 20. Capacitor (Noise Condenser) 21. Left Headlight 22. Left Combination Light (Parking) 23. Left Side Marker 24. Right Headlight 25. Right Combination Light (Parking) 26. Right Side Marker 27. Evaporative Purge Solenoid 28. Theft Alarm Horn 29. Idle Air Control Motor (ISC, IAC) 30. Turbocharger Waste Gate Solenoid Valve [Boost Control Solenoid (BCS)] 31. Back-up Light Switch 32. Front Wiring Harness and Control Wiring Harness Combination 33. Evaporative Purge Solenoid to ECU Harness Connector 34. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) 35. EVAP Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve 36. Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor 37. Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge Unit 38. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 39. Heated Oxygen Sensor (Front O2 Sensor) 40. Starter Solenoid 41. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) 42. Positive Battery Cable/Starter Motor 43. Left Fog Light 44. Right Fog Light 45. Generator (Alternator Power) 46. Generator (Alternator) 47. Power Steering Pressure Switch 48. Horn 49. Oil Pressure Switch (Dummy Light) 50. Oil Pressure Gauge Unit 51. Ignition Suppression Resistor (Fuel Injector Resistor Box) 52. Engine Speed Detection Connector 53. Windshield Wiper Motor 54. ABS Hydraulic Brake Unit 55. Left ABS Sensor 56. Right ABS SensorWire Color Key B = Black Lg = Light green Sb = Sky blue V = Violet O = Orange Y = Yellow Br = Brown G = Green Gr = Gray L = Blue P = Pink R = Red W = WhiteHere's an example on how to read the diagrams.If you look at the picture, you'll notice there is 2 wires coming out the back of the connector. The diagram has 2 boxes that contain letters from the color code list above. The first box contains RSb. The first letter is the main wire color - red. The second letter (if applicable) deals with the stripe color, which in this case is sky blue as you can see in the picture. The second box contains a G for green. There is no stripe on this wire. These diagrams only deal with main wire color and stripe color. Some of the diagrams contain blank boxes which just means there is no wire there.
The 94-96 cars (correct me if I'm mistaken) have a separate cam angle sensor and crank sensor. Other years have them both in one unit on the passenger side of the head.Here is where the CAS is located on these cars:Closeup:You'll first have to make a wiring harness to connect the 1gCAS to the cam angle sensor and crank sensor connector. (Link on how to make this harness: RRE Instructions) step 1 is to cut the wiring harnesses for both. Cut them so you have as much wiring as possible to work with as you have to route the wiring around the back of the motor. Here's where I cut the cam sensor:This is what the connector looks like for the cam angle sensor:Here's the whole pigtail I cut off.If you're still confused as to where these connectors are, they are both mounted on a metal bracket behind the motor by the firewall. Here's a picture of both pigtails mounted on the metal bracket:These are the connectors that go to the wiring harness:This is where I cut the crank sensor:Once you make your wiring harness, you have to remove the plug on the passenger side of the head where you are going to install the 1g CAS.To do this, you must remove the valve cover. Most of you have probably done this by now. Remove the spark plug wires, take out the spark plugs, and remove all the inside and outside bolts on the valve cover and remove. If you havn't taken it off in a while you may have to pry it open. Now would be a good time to get a new valve cover gasket set...especially if your old one is worn.Here is the motor with the valve cover off. You have to remove this cap to get out the plug. Just take out the two 12mm bolts.Here's the cap out and the plug out.Here's the camshaft without the plug. You can see a slot where the CAS will go into.Now, jack up your car. Take off the front driver's side wheel. Remove the plastic so you can see the crankshaft pulley. (I actually was able to do this without taking off the wheel, but taking it off makes it easier) Take a 1/2" drive (ratchet wrench) and turn the motor CLOCKWISE so that the motor is TDC. Basically there are marks on the cam gears that you want to point towards each other. The mark on the exhaust cam gear (towards the front of the car) should face 3:00. The mark on the intake cam gear (towards the back of the car) should face 9:00. Shown below:Now you have to set the 1g CAS to the right position. I can't seem to find the right words to describe what I want to say, so I'll do my best. But on the cas (shown below) the slot has one notched side. Also, the circle under it has a notch in it. You want to match up these notches.Once you've lined this up, attach the cas to the camshaft in the slot at the end. Re-install the cap over the cam with the two 12mm bolts and torque to spec. Bolt the cas to the head. Make sure the bolts are in the middle of the slot for now. In the picture below, it's at the end, but you should have it in the middle to start.Now go ahead and put the valve cover back on, and put your spark plugs back in. Now to use this cas you have to reverse the order of the spark plugs. From left to right, your cylinders are 4-3-2-1. The normal setup of spark plugs into the coil pack from left to right is 4-1-2-3. You need to reverse this so the order on the coil pack is (from left to right): 3-2-1-4. In DSMLink make sure "Invert CAS" is selected. I'm not sure how to do this without DSMLink, so someone please post up if you know what to do. Connect your wiring harness to the new 1g CAS and to the crank angle sensor and cam angle sensor on the wiring harness.Now you have to set base timing again which should be 5 degrees advance. You will need to use a timing light. Follow proper directions for using a timing light. To adjust timing, simply loosen the bolts on the cas so you can rotate it. Rotate clockwise to decrease timing, and counterclockwise to add timing.Now you're done!!
This article presents the procedure for the ignition system wiring changes when swapping a 1991-1994 ECU into a 1990 car with a 90 wiring harness, gauges, and coil. This procedure corrects the tach signal so your tach works with a 91-94 ECU. This procedure was covered on the KeyDiver web site which I give full credit for presenting the original wiring schematics. The procedure has been removed from the site and this article is provided to replace it. There is another procedure used for the ECU swap ignition wiring but that way is much longer and requires many more parts.converting a 1990 to a 1991-1994 ECU systemFor this process the only part needed is a power transistor from a 1991-1994 2.0 engine (N/T or Turbo).The 1990 coil plug has 4 wires coming out of it where as the 1991-1994 plug only has 3. The color of the wires on the 90 coil plug are as follows from the back of the connector.1 2 3 41=Yellow/Black 2=Yellow/Green 3=White 4=Black/WhiteThese two pictures show the 1990 coil pack connector and the four wires used.The 1991-1994 power transistor (#J722T) has 8 pins while the 1990 power transistor (#J122) only has 6. The wire colors for the 91-94 are as follows from the back side of the PT.1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1=Yellow/Black 2=Yellow/Red 3=Black 4=White 5=No wire 6=Black/White 7=Yellow 8=Yellow/GreenOn the left is the 91+ PT and on the right is the 90 PT.These two pictures show the 91+ PT and its wires.The 1990 wiring harness is almost identical in the engine ignition area as compared to the 1991-1994. The wires needed from the harness are originally go to the power transistor the colors are as follows.1=Black 2=Yellow/Red 3=Yellow 4=Yellow/Green 5=Yellow/BlackThe first wires that need to be connected are the thick gauged Black/White wires on the power transistor plug and the coil pack plug. The transistor's wire needs to be spliced into the coil plug's matching wire. That is the only wire on the coil pack plug that needs to be changed the rest are untouched.Then the 1, 2, 3, 7, and 8 wires on the 1991-1994 power transistor have to be connected to the corresponding colored wires on the 1990 wiring harness.The next wire that needs to changed is the 4th wire on the power transistor, this wire needs to be lengthened to reach inside of the car so it can connect to the ECU. The wire needs to replace the 109# pin out wire, the ignition pulse detect, the existing wire that was in the 109# spot is to be left unconnected. The 6# and 14# pin out wires on the ecu need to be swapped also. This is a link that shows the pin out location and #'s on the ECU.1G ECU PinoutsIf you have any questions or comments feel free to PM me at any time. Please remember to rate my tech article.
So you want to ditch your 30 year old coils and plug wires for something cleaner, but don't want the issues that come with running 300m coils in wasted spark, or the problematic CDI's that tie in with the 300m COP.The EVO community has been using Denso coils for COP with great success in 800+ hp setups with no CDI required. They're a cheap, reliable and comparatitvely powerful coil to the stock DSM coils, however these can eliminate the factory ignition control module, factory coil packs, and the spark plug wires all in one.If you're looking for an ignition improvement over the factory DSM coil packs, chances are these are not going to improve over good OEM coils.There are a few guys that have been successfully running these in DSM's, but I have yet to find a good guide on wiring them and having proper tach functions as you will be eliminating the PTU at the same time. I like the cleanliness of COP and I will say in comparison they are a better setup all around, I run a sparktech kit using the same coils on the 2.3/FP black in my EVO and have had zero issues with it the past 8 or so years it's been on there.The reason these work so much better than the 300m coils is due to the fact that the 300m coils have to be wired in series to be properly fired by the factory PCM. Wired in parallel has too much load due to their resistance and will either blow up the PTU or blow up the driver in the ecu. Wiring them in series however drops their output way lower than they would be if fired sequentially. The Denso coils have a built in igniter so the computer doesn't carry any of the load of the coil firing, which allows us to wire them "sequentially" but still fire them as a wasted spark coil like stock.Into the guide, what you'll need:4x Denso coils - Prius coils are what SparkTech uses for their Evo COP, however almost any 4 wire Toyota coil will work fine as long as it's the same style as the Prius coils. In my pictures I'm using some random Toyota coil packs that I had laying at work. You're looking for this style ideallyNext you need 4x matching connectors- Spoolin Up used to sell these as pin your own kits, you can also find these online from various vendors. I pulled mine from a junkyard Toyota. Just make sure they're 4 wire and you'll be good to go.Next you'll need a small length of wire or if you're cutting out junkyard connectors remove as much of the harness as you can with them.Next on the list is either a junk 2g MAF, like I used, or if someone knows where to get a male PTU connector as a pin-it kit I'll gladly edit that in. I asked ECMTuning, Ohm Racing, and a few other manufactures on obtaining a male either 2g MAF connector or the PTU connector and none of them got back to me on it. The 2g MAF uses the correct connector and they aren't too hard to gut out of the MAFs housing.You'll need to figure out a mounting plate for hold the coils. I traced a plug wire cover onto a sheet of aluminum and cut mine out with an angle grinder. The plate is setup for Prius coils, however, since I didn't have Prius coils on hand when I assembled it for testing I had to put some nuts under the coils to mount properly. As far as I know no one makes a plate for these off hand.Wiring for these is fairly simple, we'll go back to the picture posted above of the connector to start. On the Coil Connector: Pin #1 is the 12v feed. Pin #2 is a tach output signal. Pin #3 is the trigger to fire the coil. Pin #4 is the ground.On the MAF/PTU connector: (you'll have 8 male pin slots in the connector itself, but only 7 legs on the back side. The 2g MAF doesn't use pin 8 so go to the side of the connector with the missing pin and mark it so you know which side is pin 8.) Pin #2 - Combine Pin #3 for Denso coils 2 and 3, these 2 wires will run to Pin #1 of the MAF connector. Trigger B Pin #3 - Combine all of Pin #4 wires off the Denso coils, they all run to Pin #3 of the MAF connector. Ground Pin #4 - Combine Pin #2 from Denso coils 1* and 2*, these 2 wires will run to Pin #4 of the MAF connector. Tach Output Pin #6 - Combine all of the Pin #1 wires off the Denso coils, they're all going to be run to Pin #6 of the MAF connector. 12v coil feed. Pin #7 - Combine Pin #3 for Denso coils 1 and 4, these 2 wires will run to Pin #7 of the MAF connector. Trigger A*Note: These wires are the tach output, if you combine all 4 coils together you'll have double the RPM reading on your tach. We combine 1 and 2 as they're on opposite banks of the firing order. You can combine 1/2, 1/3, 2/4, or 3/4 and still get the same accurate RPM reading, 1/2 are just closest to the connector and require the least amount of wiring. If you don't have these combined properly you're tach will not work properly.I used crimp on connectors and then solder them to the MAF connector. This isn't the most ideal way to do this and where a pin kit would be much nicer. It is solid and works fine though for now.Loom the wiring, plug everything in, test to make sure it runs on all 4 cylinders and the tach is reading accurate. Then you can remove both the stock coil packs and the ignition module and enjoy the new COP setup.I'm currently using these on my 91 galant with a 210K mile stock 6 bolt with an FP red and supporting mods. I didn't have any issues with my original coils, but I like that I was able to ditch a couple fail points of the stock ignition system. There's definitely cleaner ways to orient these, but the angle on these specific coils made it a pain.This should work on a 90 as well, however, you'll need a different male connector and the wiring is slightly different. My 90 is currently still tore apart in the back corner of my garage, but I do plan to update this guide with the proper 1990 wiring specs.
Just about every thread that you search will tell you to get bulb 74 for your little Toshiba V-2 sockets for your gauge cluster.This is not the correct bulb size. Do not waste your time buying the 74 bulb.A 74 bulb will fit VERY tightly into the socket, so tight that it will expand/swell the socket to the point that you can't even reinstall it back into the cluster. You could theoretically expand the hole in the gauge cluster or dremel the Toshiba V-2 socket so that there is less material, but why even bother with that when you can get the correct bulb in the first place.If you need to replace a gauge cluster bulb, make sure you purchase the 2723 bulb. This bulb fits perfectly into the Toshiba V-2 socket and installs just like the OEM bulbs.
Original Author Richard Montalvo - FacebookPosted here to save the information and make it searchable."Here are total costs associated with this upgrade I just did. - Bosch Throttle body $150 (Amazon) - Billet throttle body flange $90 - Bosch wiring plug $12 - Pedal from a 4G eclipse $15 (Junkyard) - Vibrant cast elbow $35 (local shop) - Torque Solution clamp $85 - Fab work, piping & Labor $200 - Tuner adjusting the Haltech $125 : $712 no tax.Now take into consideration that I did the fab work and welding myself, but I would charge someone $200 to do all this fab work if they brought me their car. Other people may charge less or more. These are straight costs for how I did it. You can save money by not using a cast elbow and boost clamp. Straight couplers are cheaper. Also if you tune the ecu yourself obviously no cost for a re tune- Adding Cruise control - Better idle - Better cold start (especially w/E85) - Traction control - Throttle activated Exhaust bypass valve - Eliminating Idle Motor, TPS and FIAV - Safety. Nothing can jam the throttle open - Better pedal travel/feelNow someone mentioned that there is throttle delay when using Drive by Wire. I recently drove a friends car with Drive by Wire and I didn't notice any delay so I cannot confirm that it is an issue at this time. I will advise later on once I drive it around for a few miles. Hope this was informative."
Hey I had to change my O2 sensor so i figured i would make a tech for it while i was doing it.:)You might need to change you O2 sensor if you fouled your old one or just if you want to replace a old crusty one with a fancy new you might be needing: O2 sensor socket Ratchet with extension Torque wrench anti-seize compound(local car parts store or comes with sensor) New O2 sensor, wires, connector (the o2 sensor im using is the Denso: First time fit, it seems to be the best no reason why you shouldnt get this one, it can take leaded gas and has extra water protection among other things, all for $94 shipped) i got mine from machVthis is what your looking for on the car
This article is meant to serve as a general guide to get the horn to work with an Nrg short hub or aftermarket steering wheel. Credit goes to this particular article for the idea of using a hose clamp: Also take note of the picture from this article to see a hacksaw blade used instead of a hose clamp: ********Note: I will not be going over srs light or how to maintain airbags Useful Videos: -For disassembly//assembly of nrg setup wheel-To understand the general concept of how the horn works skip to 1:15. The dude in the vid uses a paperclip instead of the hose clamp, but the same basic concept.Disconnect Battery!!!I'm gonna skip all the steering wheel disassembly to the part when removing the clockspring. The spring has two connectors that go under the dash, the one we want to use for our horn is white and has 3 wires: green w/ red stripe, blue, and black. Cut the connector from the clockspring leaving a decent amount of wire from the green/red wire and blue wire. The black wire will not be used so it can be cut short, covered with electrical tape, etc. If you don't want to cut up your clockspring, go to the junkyard and get yourself that one connector.This picture above shows the cut connectorAt this point, we will move on to using the hose clamp as a spring for the horn. I recently replaced my lower radiator hose and decided to use one of those hose clamps. I started by completely unscrewing the clamp and cutting the hose clamp to length using tin snips. You want to cut the solid part that doesn't have slots or find a hose clamp with a long enough section of slotted metal. You can reference the pictures to see the shape, but the general idea is to have it stationary, while also always contacting the bronze piece on the back of the short hub. The hose will be rubbing the back of the short hub so I would recommend using some Permatex Dielectric Grease to lubricate the connection. I smeared it on the hose clamp and on the entire bronze back.Install the nrg short hub to know how much you need to bend the hose clamp. I wanted to use the factory holes where the clockspring bolted to, so I made 2 bends to make almost like an omega symbol using a vise. I placed the slotted end on the lower-left screw post, marked it with a sharpie, and drilled a hole to use the factory screw. I then drilled a second hole on the other side of the clamp to try to use a white bump as a place to hold the clamp in place. I ended up missing my mark and used a Dremel to bore/extend out the hole enough to make it over the little bump. I also managed to screw in the factory screw on the lower-right post to secure the clamp further from the right side. I put a little epoxy on the bump part for extra support, but honestly feel like the second screw does a sufficient job, especially with the white bump as a retainer point.This picture above shows "white bump" mentioned priorScrew and epoxy holding the clamp in placeBack to wiring: The blue wire will be extended with a butt connector or soldered and then grounded using a ring connector. The green/red wire will also be extended to reach our hose clamp. Bend a small ring connector to make an L and place it between the screw and hose clamp on the bottom-left screw post. (Drawing of Circuit Below as well as pictures of it installed). Follow the installation process for the rest of the nrg setup using common sense or the vid from the budget tuner (linked above). Make sure all the parts connect to each other, connecting the male to female connectors of each component to each other. The short hub connects to the quick release part that sticks out, while the horn button connects to the actual quick release that bolts to the steering wheel. If you find out that the horn button has 2 male spade connectors, make a female-female adapter using a small wire and 2 female spade connectors. If you find that you only have one male connector on the horn button, follow this video:Review of basic circuitThis picture above shows the grounded blue wire (later connected with a butt connector, also ignore the messy wiring above that)This picture above shows the bent ring connector attached to the green/red wire between the clamp and screwConnect the battery and test :) Hope this helps at least someone!
In this thread Ill show you how to install a vac pump. The reason you would do this is to help launches when your brakes cant hold you back. While sitting at the line with boost, there is no vacuum going to the booster. This is mainly for people with a auto trans.You will need wire, wire strippers, crimpers, relay, hose, check valve, and the pump. You need find where you want to mount your pump. This is the pump I got.You need to remove the hose at the brake booster. You need to put a T in this line. On the remaining two ports, one goes to the booster and the other is going to the pump. In the line going to the pump is where you need a check valve put in place. Remember the pump is providing vacuum.Next you need to cut the plug off the pump and find another two pin connector. I used the same color wires so It would be easier to troubleshoot down the road. You need to wire the connector accordingly. This step isn't needed unless you wanted a plug and play system. Then you need to find a spot to run the wires through the firewall. I made a plate with a bulkhead going where my old clutch master went through. You can see in this image.After this, you'll want to get a power wire. I have a fuse block getting supplied by my battery. I have a fuse between the battery and fuse block. And then the fuse block is secondary fuses for whatever you want in the future. Find a place to mount a relay.You can use this diagram. I made a T for power rather than using 2 wires from the fuse block. You will want 12v power to pin 85 and 30. You need to run the positive wire from the pump to pin 87. The negative wire from the pump goes any ground on the car. Just find a old bolt to put the wire under.Now we need to get the wire from the ECU. For the fuel pressure solenoid we use pin 3 which is blue with a red striper. For the EGR solenoid we use light green with red stripe. The EGR is pin 6. I chose to extend both these wires where I plan on putting another relay to save time later on. I chose to use the EGR. This wire needs to go on pin 86 on the relay.Next we go on to dsmlink to confirm the install is good. You'll need to connect and go the the EGR or FPS tab. Set the values on the left side to 0. You can test multiple tps points. But I chose 5 for tps. You need to change the hg/ boost to what your ecuboost says in your log. Next with the car off but in ACC start a log. Then make sure the pump turns on and the relay clicks when you reach your desired TPS. After this you can fine tune as you need.Remember the ecu switches to ground. You cant wire the relay like this AND use a switch. This is only for dsmlink control. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. This article also assumes you are not using your current EGR and FPS solenoid. I think by the time your wanting to do this install, you already ditched emissions and the stock FPR.
The 2g's have alot of problems with the horn buttons not working. I took a few pictures and figured I'd put put something in print to go with it.First and foremost ALWAYS check your fuses first. Check both the fuse block located just above the left foot area inside the car and check the power distribution center (fuse block under hood) for blown fuses.I prefer to check most electrical problems at opposite ends first and then work my way towards the middle of the circuit. The horn under the left front head light (on 99RS models at least) and the switches at the steering wheel are the ends of the system. It's easier to get to the horn switches themselves rather than the horn.So the first thing you'll want to do is disconnect the battery. -edit: Prior to doing this, make sure you have your radio code if you are still running the factory radio. In many cases, you will have to reset the radio if you disconnect the battery. :end edit--You do this to protect yourself from having the airbag go off in your face. Make sure you disconnect the battery and let the vehicle sit for about 5 minutes.--------The airbag system is designed to deploy when the vehicle is impacted in a certain manor. In the event that the airbags are not required to deploy, the system still remains armed in the event of a second impact. The capacitors are for accidents where power to the airbag system is lost. The capacitors provide that power source to keep the airbag system in operating condition until the driver can exit the vehicle.------After the battery has been disconnected for five minutes, you can safely remove the airbag from the steering wheel. You do this by removing the four 10mm bolts that hold it to the steering wheel. There's one bolt in each area circled below. The two red circles indicate the horn switch location and on the back side of all four circled areas you will find the bolts.
Little break down on why and how i got to this stage. My cars in the UK so we are similer to EU rules and regs so we have only Amber indicators in the rear but when the car was imported so many years ago they rewired some bits took some wires out for the rear and it needed tidying up.So I lost the 4 rear bulbs that are USA regs for brake and indicator, the front wings get side markers and the bumper marker was an indicator. When i recently redid the wiring to get rid of old wires and clean it up i ditched a few bulbs as i dont need them no more and this caused me some issues even before LED bulbs! I bought some LED bulbs that had build in resisters but clearly were not enough for the system and not able to compensate for it.The fix is simple and easy and its less then $5 to do and its hidden!!!The oem Loop thats normally in this spot adds 1ohm of resistance which is fine for filament type bulbs but not good for LED ones. The new unit adds 6ohms of resistance and is good for 50watts so plenty of power to spare and can cover a good amount of LED bulbs inline.Really simple to do! Desolder the oem loop and solder in the new one! Its that simple. This should take care of most of your needs as its a fairly decent sized unit. I made a small slit on the housing for the wires to sit through when its all capped back up and taped it down.
Part 2 of the pictures for wiring a Dynatech ARC2 box to a 1990 DSM using the 1990 stock connectors for plug and play status! For the beginning of this thread go here ----> are the rest of my pictures from the install.
Since there are a few members that would like to know how a simple relay functions, I drew up this rough drawing to show just how a simple relay operates. I hope it helps out those that are "electrically challenged". Marty
Original information found here: of the steps found there was not needed, and some of the instructions were a little confusing so I modified it a bit while everything is still fresh in my mind.Parts needed: 2 8-ohm, 20-watt resistors from Radio Shack(Part #: 271-120) Some spare wire, you may want to pick up a roll of speaker wire at Radio Shack Wire cutters and strippers 10mm deep socket Flathead and Philipshead screwdriversNow, on to the fun:The amber-cornered European/Japanese taillights will work with the American version of the 2G Eclipse as long as you make some modifications to the wiring. Hopefully you have access to instructions on removing your taillights, but in case you haven’t I’ve included a brief description of the tools and process. A 10mm deep socket will come in handy here.Before you start, go to Radio Shack and get 2 8-ohm, 20-watt resistors(Part #: 271-120), and a roll of speaker wire if you do not already have any.1. Remove the two panels for bulb access. Also take out the center section of the interior section of the trunk. To do so you will have to take out the spare tire so you can pop the bottom part of this panel. With that popped you can lift it up and off. This will give you access to the seven nuts that hold the center Eclipse section. It will also make it easier to run some new wiring. With the center section off you can unbolt the right and left side taillights.2. Once your old taillights are removed, you need to transfer sockets/bulbs from the all red American lights to the Euro/JDM set. Mount the new taillights into the tail section and then the center Eclipse section. Plug the sockets back in the way they came out of your stock taillights.Now, keep in mind how the (US) lights are wired to work from the factory. This will help you understand the changes required to get the Euro/Japanese lights wired. The driving and parking lights are all the way across,in other words all three sockets are energized. They use a twin filament, 1157, bulb. The low wattage filaments are used for the running and parking lights. The corner(outer-most) ends never energize the high wattage filament, but fortunately they are there waiting for a new role. The two sockets toward the center use the high wattage filaments for brake lights, turn signals, and hazard flashing. This is important to remember because a single wire feeds the signal for these functions. The same wire that sends the electrical pulse for the turn signal also sends the steady voltage for the brakes.The new taillights will need to be set up so the two center bulbs use the low wattage filaments for parking and running; and the high wattage for brake lights only. The corner amber socket needs to have the high wattage filament dedicated to the turn signal and hazard voltage. Remember though that a single wire sends all three to the American taillights. So the trick is to remove the brake signal to that wire and only allow the turn/hazard signal voltage through.3. To get started, you are going to cut the green wires on the outer-most bulb sockets(amber corner) about 3" from the bulb socket itself. Tape the chassis side of the wire up as it is not needed anymore, and you will be running new wires to this "pigtail" later on.4. The next step is to remove the turn and hazard signal from the wire that carries the brake light voltage. To do this you will need to access the hazard/signal flasher behind the radio. To gain access you will need to lift off the center console and the passenger side panel. It is a small black box above and behind the radio to the right side with a white connector on the bottom of it. Once you reach it, unplug the connector from the unit. It has ten wires connected to it. As you look at the connector you will see one side has a notch. To the left and right of the notch are two wire contacts each. The one on the left closest to the notch is the one that sends the signal to the back. There is a gray clip that keeps the contacts in place so take it off and don't lose it). Push out the contact identified prior. If you want to be sure you have the correct one take a voltmeter and probe the socket. You should see it activate when you press the brake pedal (duhh) and go to zero volts when you are off the pedal. When you have the contact pushed out of the socket, replace the gray lock and then tape up the wire you just removed so it cannot short on anything. Another way of testing this once the contact is pushed out, is to have a friend look at the taillights while you press the brake pedal, they should NOT come on if you pressed out the correct contact. If they do come on, put the contact you removed back in and press out the contact on the other side closest to the notch and try again. I used a small allen key to press the contacts out of the connector harness. Now put your radio back in and your console together.5. The next job is to send a brake signal to the two center sockets. To do this you need to run a wire from the signal that goes to the center "third" brakelight. This is behind the panel under the rear 1/4 window on the driver's side. To remove the panel you will need to remove your lower back seat by pulling on the pieces in the middle of the seats under the seats and lifting up. This will give you access to a screw you need to remove for the panel to come off. There is harness running up under this panel with a green wire that you will tap for its signal. You can identify the correct harness by finding the white socket that is "plugged" into the chassis. It will be a green wire coming out of this white plug, you can again take a voltmeter to test this wire by pressing the brake pedal, or just snip it and see if your third brake light still works. Once you have identified the correct wire, you will want to attach a fairly long wire to this one by soldering or just tapping and taping it. Run the wire you attached back to the taillight area and place the panel back on and put your back seat in.6. The white socket that hangs from the taillight bulb sockets are now ready for their surgery. First the driver's side. Strip back the insulation on the chassis side of the harness to reveal 3 wires, the ground (black) and the wire next to it (parking light voltage), stay. The gray/blue wire is cut leaving a 2-3" pigtail. The end that goes to the socket will be connected to the wire you soldered in the prior step(3rd brake light wire) and will also need to be daisy-chained over to the other taillight for the brake lights over there, but that comes last.7. The chassis side of the cut gray/blue wire will be extended to the amber corner socket on the left side. In addition you will need to connect the 8-Ohm resistors to a chassis ground on one end and this wire on the other. So from this single wire it splits into two wires. One to the resistor and ground and the other to the socket connector on the amber arrow. To explain this a little easier, ground one end of the resistor, and connect the green wire from the amber corner as well as the gray/blue wire to the other end of the resistor.8. Next is the right socket. The wire to be cut is gray/red. The socket side gets connected to the brake light wire daisy changed from the left light. The chassis side gets split again. One strand goes to the amber corner wire and and the other to the grounded resistor.As long as you followed these instructions 100%, everything should be working perfectly. I modified the original write-up while everything was still fresh in my head as I just did all of this last night. Just test the signals now and make sure they are working, as well as the hazard lights.Hope this helps, Spidey
I'm going to show you how to hard-wire your SD kit and Flex Fuel sensors instead of using an adapter harness for those either redoing their engine harness or you simply don't have the funds for the adapter harness.There was very little information on MAF wiring that I could find but maybe I wasn't using the right keywords.. Regardless, here's credit to this thread for having what I needed: After reviewing that thread, I then traced all the MAF wires across my harness to confirm where they went. There is a diagram that includes the ECU pin #'s a few pictures down if you're making a new harness. My car is a 98 GSX- your wire colors may vary but the positions of the wires should be the same.First thing you want to do is make an even cut across all the MAF wires to cut the plug off. I spread mine out so you can easily see the colors of each although they'll be listed below.Here is the pinouts for the MAF harness. Wires should be installed as seen in the pic below(looking from the back side) For example, the top MAP sensor plug would get the black #5 wire in the top left hole, green/yellow #1 wire in the top right hole, and the orange #2 wire in the bottom center hole. Note: If you're using a Omni MAP, you'll have to figure out the wiring yourself as my setup is for an AEM 5 bar MAP sensor. You will solder or crimp 2 wires onto the black #5 wire because the ground is used on both the AIT and MAP plugs. On the ethanol sensor, you will run its own separate ground from the center - pin. Do NOT tie it in with the #5 ground wire because it's a 5v ground and ECMtuning says not to, periodt. #7 will not be used so you can just heat shrink it to prevent any shorts and if you're not going to be installing the flex fuel sensor either, go ahead and heat shrink #3&4 wires as well.This diagram may be easier to read for some...I ran out of time to actually crimp the wires and install them but I will update the thread after I've done so and also include ECMLink instructions on how to log these values.
INTRODUCTION I notice there are not that many install guides for installing the Apexi Super AFC, usually its because the links are so old you can't find them. So I decided to write one up with pictures and good diagrams. I'm doing this write up for the 2G turbo's, I am not sure if the 1G or any others car is the same. I do know for sure that that the 2GNT install is totally different as the ECU is in the engine bay and it uses a MAP sensor. I also did this with the first SAFC, for the AFC, SAFCII, or SAFC NEO I am not sure if it is exactly the same. Another note is that this install guide will cover basic installation/wiring and setup. For tuning info you'd best look at the many other guides on tuners.INSTALL TIME This took me about 1 hour and 20 minutes (I checked the pictures timestamps, sure seemed longer than that). So plan to at least be working on it for an hour at the least and like 2 hours if your having trouble. Take breaks too my knees and back were killing me from all that surgery ;).WHAT YOU WILL NEED FOR THE INSTALL: Cutters Electrical Tape Soldering Iron (helps if you have a cordless one) Solder Sharp Knife Flashlight (dark in there)This is if you are going to solder the wires in which is the best way, alternatives are wire taps (but they look ugly).BULLET CONNECTORS Another thing you might want to get if your SAFC didn't come with them are bullet connectors. If you get the SAFC brand new unlike mine it will have bullet connectors. These connector are there so if you want to quickly uninstall the SAFC or more like disable it. You can unplug it and make it stock quickly.The first step is to get your work area ready. You will need to take the console side panels off on the drivers side. This will require unscrewing and pulling the panel off. You'll probably want to get your flashlight setup if there is not much light out. You also might want to get some kind of pad for your knees because you'll be on them for a while. You will want to start routing the harness where you want to install your SAFC, mine was installed under the radio. After you take the panel off it should look like this:Here is where the ECU is (its right behind that big bracket for the radio):Now that we know where the surgery will begin here is a diagram that I made with the help of turbosax2 colored wiring ECU diagram from this post (I highly suggest you print this diagram out, in color also): diagram has has a list of what each pin/wire does, wire colors, and how thick the wire is. To the left is a map of each pin numbers. There are 4 colors for each of the ECU connectors. The left diagram is exactly how the ECU will appear when you are working it, please note that the legend is backwards, just match the colors up and you will not have a problem. The wires you will be tapping to the ECU are also highlighted in the colors that are on the SAFC. You will notice 2 of the wires have 2 colors on them and there are notes on them. This means there will be two wires either tapped or intercepted. There are also notes under the pin map.The wires we will be working with on the SAFC are: RED = SAFC POWER BLACK = GROUND BROWN = GROUND GREEN = TACHOMETER GREY = TPS PINK = MAS ORANGE = MASWe will not be using: BLUE, WHITE, and YELLOW wires. Cut the ends off of them if they are exposed and tape them or find someway to keep them out of the way.I started with the all the wires on the red connector, the lowest connector. It helps to unplug all the connectors you will be working with. I will say this once. You want to check and DOUBLE CHECK that you have the correct wire. Do this by finding the wire on the map and legend and confirming the wire color. Then double check by comparing what the pins/wires around the wire you are working with. So the first wire I am working with is the power wire. You will want to the get the RED SAFC wire out and look on the diagram. The power wire is on pin #25. Look for a red wire that is in the upper right corner of the connector. There should be a black wire on top of it and another one north west of it. Then there is a red wire to the left of it. If you confirm that, thats the one. Whew now I won't go over that again, just remember to double check it.There's the wire. Now cut into the jacket with your knife. Should look like the wire in the picture.If your soldering the wire in this is the method I used. I wet the part I cut with the soldering iron. Then I strip a little off of the SAFC wire just a little and wet it with solder. Then I put the wire in place and melt the two together. I do it this way so if I want to uninstall it later it will be easy to pull off. Anything else I will actually tie the wire around the wire then solder it but like I said I want it to be easy to uninstall. With that being explained solder the RED SAFC wire to this wire. Should look like the picture when your done.Be sure to give it a little tug when it cools down to make sure it is on there good. If you pull it and it comes right off chances are it will come off due to vibration or whatever. Now bend the wire as far as you can to get it parallel with the wire and wrap the exposed wire with electrical tape to prevent shorts. Should look like this:Now solder in the ground wire. Notice I already did it in the previous picture. The ground wire is tricky you need to solder TWO wire to it. The BROWN and BLACK wires from the SAFC. The BROWN wire needs to be closer to the ECU. Then the BLACK wire needs to be soldered further down the wire. I soldered it about 1cm away from the BROWN wire. Solder them and wrap them up. Should look like this picture:Now we're done with the RED connector. You can go ahead and plug it back in and pull get the YELLOW connector ready. Its that small one in the lower picture.Find the WHITE wire in the YELLOW connector and solder the GREEN SAFC wire to it. Then tape it up.Now plug the YELLOW connector back in and get the BLUE connector. We're almost finished. Find the BROWN wire with a RED stripe on it and solder the GREY SAFC wire to it and tape it up.Here's the last tricky part. Get your cutters and find and cut the BLUE wire (it looks green in that picture) with a YELLOW stripe on it. Notice its already cut in the picture.Now solder the PINK SAFC wire to the BLUE/yellow wire going to the ECU. Then solder the ORANGE SAFC wire to the wire other wire that goes to the MAS. Tape it up and your DONE! Go ahead and plug in the connector and double check that the others are plugged in. You can go ahead and put the side panel on if you want to. Also note that I am NOT using the bullet connectors I just soldered them in. You would solder a FEMALE connector onto the wire going to the ECU and a MALE bullet connector onto the wire going to the MAS and connect them. Then if you want to disable the SAFC just unplug the PINK and ORANGE wire and connect the BLUE/yellow wire together if you wanted to use the bullet connectors. If you soldered it too bad you need to unsolder and solder it back together.This picture shows the leftover wires you will have. These wires are not used because they are used for other cars that have different sensors or more than one airflow sensor. I know for a fact that the yellow and white wire are used on the 2GNT. The blue wire can be used to view your O2 sensor reading but I hear that it is not good to do it.Now go ahead and mount your SAFC where you want it to be. Like I said I mounted mine under the radio and I put a fuzzy dice next to it to fill in the gap. Then make sure you connected the harness to the SAFC like in the picture.This is what the wiring looks like after installation, there is A LOT of extra wire so tuck it in there somewhere it will not create any problems.BASIC SETUP FOR 2G TURBO Now go ahead and put the key in the ignition and turn it to ON. DO NOT start the car just put it to on. If you did everything right you will see the SAFC start up. If not check your wiring or if you put the connectors back in. Now hit the PREVIOUS button until you get to this screen and highlight ECT and hit next:You should see a screen like this:Go to SENSOR TYPEhighlight KARMANThen go to CAR SELECTThen set CYL to 4 and set the THR pointing NORTHEASTAlso set your HI and LOW maps to 0% if you don't want the SAFC to do anything if you haven't added injectors yet. (Ghey won't let me put anymore pictures in)You might want to also go to the monitors and see if anything is out of the ordinary. Step on the throttle and you should see the THR % move.Fire the car up and hopefully it runs, you should check if your RPMs are right. Congratulations your SAFC is now installed!Basic setup tip here: If you want to set your idle or low RPM to a particular injector find out how much percent larger your injector is compared to the stock 450cc injector.Example: If installing 550cc injectors. 550/450 = 1.22 -1 = .22 = 22% 550cc injectors are 22% larger than the stock 450cc injectors, so you will need to subtract 22% fuel to make it idle l So in the low setting you would put -22% across all RPM ranges.
So, while I had the headlights out of my 92 Talon for the FMIC install, I had decided to do an LED bulb conversion. No site really listed bulbs that would work and it took a little bit of customization to get them to fit, but it wasn't hard. Follow along and I will try to make it simple. LED bulbs for a 1gb are 9005 and 9006 LED bulbs for the headlights and 880 LED bulbs for our fog lights. The fog light replacement is simple, just remove and replace with the LED bulbs. Our original headlight bulbs used halogen, I believe, that uses a metal strap to hold them into our housings. I had to remove the metal straps completely so the new LED's would seat (they have an oring on them to seal out moisture). After removing the strap, you need to see which of the 3 possible ways to twist in the new bulbs, that make the LED's face straight up and down vertically. This way the LED's use the most part of the reflectors in our housings. After figuring out which way to install them to make them vertical, you have to figure out how to get the ballasts to fit into the housings so you can put the covers back on the back of the housings. That was the hardest thing to do, was fit that box into the housing, behind the lenses. It can be done, but you will see I had to trim the hold downs on the connectors for the headlights for them to fit. There is another reason to trim the snap off of the original connector, one of our bulbs has to have the connector turned 180* around in order for the LED's to come on as LED's are polarized. They will only work in one direction. If they don't come on, you turn the connector over and plug it in upside down. To hold the new bulbs in, you will see I used Grey Silicone and let them sit over night to be sure they were attached good and wouldn't fall out. The next day, they were solid as a rock, but since it is silicone, if you ever need to replace them, you can just peel the old off and put new on. See my pictures and if you have any questions, fire away. Last night, I got to try them on the road for the first time, and boy, you can see EVEYTHING for miles, LOL. I love them, you will too. I got my bulbs from Amazon and they were under $50 for all 4. If you would like to see how I got my headlight lenses so nice and pretty, see this article ---> MartyThis is the connector modification that I had to do:Lights ON!!!
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