Difficult Start Up After 550cc injectors installed??

[98autogstspyder]

I have just been trying to tune my car at low rpms. I put in FIC 550cc injectors in my 1998 eclipse spyder gst automatic yesterday. Car drives great and has no problems except for the start up. doesnt matter if the car is cool or hot, same story.

My friend removed the hoses running to the fuel pressure regulator solenoid. ( i dont know y, he says i didnt need them ) anyway could this be part of the problem. i just went outside and added fuel all the way to -2%. and the problem seemed to be fixed, but i didnt drive the car around.

seems strange that adding all of that fuel with 550's on there fixed the start up. any suggestions? This problem did not occur until the car was started up with the injectors in and the fuel pressure regulator thing being done.

I have come to a conclusion. My car seems to be completely backwards from what every1 else's is.

Tyler


mods of significance:
evo316g
turbo xs manual boost controller
greddy fmic
hks bov recirculated
FIC 550cc's
190 lph
safc
all other stuff should be in profile.

 

[miteclgst]

When I installed my 550's on my 97 GST I had a tough time starting the car with the AFC zeroed out, once I adjusted the AFC a bit it worked just fine, I know that all cars are different but upgrading to 550's should require a - % correction (around -10% or so) in order to make the car idle. I have never heard of disconnecting the vacuum hoses to the FPR, I pretty much have the same setup as you and I didn't disconnect any hoses. I think you will have a lot of people on here tell you to hook that selenoid back up. I mean the selenoid regulates your fuel pressure in perportion to you intake manifold pressure (correct me if I'm wrong). I would hook that hose back up and keep your friend very far away from your car.

 

[Violater101]

Yes, I would hook that hose back up also. Not sure if that is your problem, but it's their for a reason

 

[TERBOLASER]

Have your car call the police and get a restraining order on your friend and hook that thingk back up and lean it 10 percent for correction.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

the solenoid controls start-up fuel pressure i believe.. it is normal to idle a little rich... but not THAT rich. you say he unhooked the hoses.. did he at least cap off what wasn't connected to anything?

you should be like -15 at LEAST or leaner on the SAFC with 550s.

 

[Enigma_Man]

That fuel solenoid thing you don't need.

The FPR however, you need very very much.

Just make sure no hoses are loose and flapping around.

Otherwise, you have to trick the ECU into compensating for the 550s, because the car doesn't know you upgraded the injectors.

-Jesse

 

[98autogstspyder]

we hooked up the hoses but i am still getting a crummy start.
i have messed with the corrections several times.

i have done the correction at +4 , 0 ,-6,-10 ,-16, - 20

it still struggles to start


Tyler

 

[myblack98gst]

ON MY CAR

denso 720cc
walbro 255
earls 6an filter
6an SS fuel lines

I have the AFC on 0 at idle and it runs great if I try to lean it out it will not run for shit.. it runs even better at + settings at idle.. but as soon as I get away from idle the LOW settings are around -19

I must mention I do not have functioning ISC motor so I had to account for that in setting up the idle

 

[kpt4321]

The original poster IM'd me tonight, and we came up with a few things. For the archives:

First and foremost, the car needs to be pressure tested. I'd be willing to bet that with the FMIC and turbo install, all kinds of crap may be loose. Put at least 15 or 20 psi into the turbo inlet, and fix ALL of the leaks that you can.

Second of all, fix the FPR source lines. There are two choices:

Stock setup- Manifold source to one of the FPR solenoid nipples. Then the other FPRS nipple to the FPR itself.

Simple- Run a line from the manifold to the FPR, and don't attach anything else to it.

Make sure all connections are secure.

Now, once you have the FPR hooked up correctly and NO LEAKS, you should already be better off. At this point, it's time to tune; the car should tune normally, since the air metering is now no longer totally banjaxed.

For starters, put the SAFC around -12% to get the car running. However, do NOT trust baseline settings. Get a logger or find someone local who owns one and borrow it for a day or a couple of days. Use this site's tuning guides to get the fuel trims in line, and then tune at WOT.

 

[98autogstspyder]

thank you for your replies, i will do these tests on the car as soon as time permits me too. And as for a logger, that is a must. i think in the tuning guide, a pocket logger should be the first mod a dsmer gets.

Tyler

 

[doug]

Originally posted by TERBOLASER
Have your car call the police and get a restraining order on your friend and hook that thingk back up

You're not funny and you don't know what you're talking about. If you can't offer useful advice, don't post.

The FPS keeps fuel pressure up for warm starts-- that is all.
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions1.htm

Like the more knowledgeable people here have mentioned, you don't need it. And you don't need to "cap it off" after you've unplugged the hoses from it, just like you don't need to cap off the BCS after you install a MBC.

 

[98autogstspyder]

thank you every1 for your posts. tonight i will be logging and i will let u know wut happens.


Tyler