ECMlink dies when clutch pedal is pressed and throttle is blipped

[DSM B]

Hey Guys, I am having an issue when I press and hold the clutch pedal down and blip the throttle while clutch is still depressed, the engine just dies. It does not sputter or hesitate, just literally goes to 0 RPM.

Now, I have found numerous threads discussing this exact issue however, they are not resolved and items asked in the threads to check, I have checked. I have a log attached and everything seems adjusted correctly, both mechanically and in the ecu calibration. I have checked the BISS adjustment, the ISC coils check out.

This issue is really present when I am driving and I press in the clutch to downshift, my RPM's just drop to 0. Any thoughts?

I know crank-walk is brought up in most of these, but I do have a 6-bolt with a 2g head and I am not seeing anything mechanically in the crank suggesting crank-walk.

Also, I do have light flywheel which I have read can also contribute to this. If it is this, has anyone found a way to resolve this? Please let me know if you have any input.

Thanks

 

[DSMPT]

I know crank-walk is brought up in most of these, but I do have a 6-bolt with a 2g head and I am not seeing anything mechanically in the crank suggesting crank-walk.

Also, I do have light flywheel which I have read can also contribute to this. If it is this, has anyone found a way to resolve this? Please let me know if you have any input.

Has this been happening since before or suddenly started to happen?
Crank-walk would occur on both 6 bolt and 7 bolt. So anyways you have to check it first and also make sure all adjustments on throttle body are properly done.
In case if the cause is the light weight flywheel, you better have a Fluidampr instead of the stock crank pulley. And/or opening the throttle plate slightly more by stop screw (SAS). Those may make the engine stall less happened.

 

[DSM B]

Are you saying I have to turn the idle switch in more than 15/16 of a turn to open the throttle blade more with throttle fully closed. I believe that was the value in the service manual... This has been happening for sometime but now seems worse this first time driving this year

 

[DSMPT]

Are you saying I have to turn the idle switch in more than 15/16 of a turn to open the throttle blade more with throttle fully closed.

Yes in case if you have a 1g throttle body. If 2g or aftermarket throttle body, adjust the stop screw to open the plate slightly more than the current position when it's fully closed. It may cause a bit higher idle but should make the engine speed dropped slower, so in some case you can avoid the engine stall happened. This is if the cause is the light weight flywheel.

 

[DSM B]

So I did a quick test last night and here is what I found. I turned the SAS 1.25 turn from my original 15/16th of turn. I readjusted my TPS voltage to 0.63 vdc and started it up and rev’ed the engine with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor. The engine did stumble a small amount after RPM decel, but it did not die which is what it did with my previous 15/16th of a turn. That seems promising, especially seeing as I did not have fuel trims and BISS adjusted for this new throttle blade setting! This week I will adjust my BISS and fuel trims to the new SAS setting and see how it works. I will also see how it reacts to turning the SAS screw 1.5 turns and recalibrate everything again to see what it better.

 

[DSM B]

Alright, I adjusted the SAS to 1.25 and warmed up the car and made my calibration changes. I then pushed in the clutch and blipped the throttle and it died.

So I adjusted the SAS to just about 2 full turns out. This about maxed my BISS screw turned fully in. I blipped the throttle again with the clutch pushed in and it died. Please see log attached. You will notice 2 blips, the first one is just blipping the throttle not pushing in the clutch and the second one is with the clutch pushed and the car falls on its face!

I think we can rule out the SAS adjustment unless anyone notices anything in the log... Any other suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks

 

[DSMPT]

Then the lightweight flywheel is probably not the direct cause. Did you confirm that it's not the crankwalk? And did you make any changes before this started often?

 

[DSM B]

Ok, so a lot has happened this past month. I replaced my clutch with a South bend and replaced the tob with an oem. I also rebuilt my driveshaft while I was in there. The tob was the cause of the intial issue I believe as the car is running great. It is not dying on me when I press the clutch in anymore.
Also I adjusted my idle switch out to about 1.5 to 1.75 turns out and it does seem to return to idle smoother.

Thanks for the feedback and help!

 

[AWD-Tony]

@DSM B Can you tell what actually was wrong with the tob?

 

[DSM B]

I found grease on the back fingers of my previous pressure plate. I suspect from the tob, presumably from a misadjusted clutch pedal, master cyclinder and slave cylinder.
When I installed my new clutch and tob just recently, I took great care in following the service manual explicitly for proper adjustment. I am happy to report everything seems good.