did the turbo conversion but wtf

[kccombs]

Im done finally with my turbo conversion on my 92. I have a t3 t4 60 a/r turbo. Ebay 38mm waste gate with a 7 psi spring in it right now. It has 2 1/2 inch upper and lower pipings. With a hks sg bov and i need to switch it with a stock bov to get it recirculating. Ive go everything so far besides the bov and checking the timing. It idles pretty good but fluctuates up and down alittle bit. And when you just try to get on it when revving it up it seems like its flooding. Could all these be becuase just the timing and bov or something else. Thanks for the help

 

[kccombs]

I dont beleive i ever unpluged anything around the battarybut i will check it out. The nts do have it right?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I dont beleive i ever unpluged anything around the battarybut i will check it out. The nts do have it right?

Yes.

 

[kccombs]

Ok i will check them out as well

Checked it out and everything was connected. And i went ahead and took the grounds from my knock sensor and fpr selenoid off and sanded a little area where they go so there is no paint or primer showing so now there is bare metal.

And also found a 90 degree coupleing that was completely off off my uicp.

 

[Turbotsiawd]

Boost leak testers are like 30 bones on eBay,com

 

[92AWDHX40]

MAke one less than that.

 

[jpmxrider489]

The isc was my problem but that wasnt flooding me out. It sounds like the ecu is dumping fuel when it shouldnt. Are you using dsm link or safc? I would try to dial back injectors. I would get a good fpr. The 255 is to much for even tsi fuel mods.

 

[kccombs]

Set my timing 5 degrees btdc. And fixed my noise coming thru the radio. Did the boost leak test and the only leak i had was the 90 degree elbow that was off of my uicp. At 1st it seemed like my car was running great when just letting it idle. Then took it for a drive then it started to seem like it was flooding out again. What else could i check? And im not sure if i memtioned this before but i also havent got a downpipe on it yet so its just running as header and then o2 housing.

The isc was my problem but that wasnt flooding me out. It sounds like the ecu is dumping fuel when it shouldnt. Are you using dsm link or safc? I would try to dial back injectors. I would get a good fpr. The 255 is to much for even tsi fuel mods.

Im not runing the dsm link or safc. The fpr would make since as well. If i got an after market fpr how high should i set it?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Im not runing the dsm link or safc. The fpr would make since as well. If i got an after market fpr how high should i set it?

37 psi with the vacuum line off and plugged.

 

[rEclipserGST]

You mentioned ebay external wg. Curious, did you take a picture of it? I'd like to see if it is missing the "fire ring/valve seat" like my friends ebay 38mm. Swapped his temporarily & had slow boost spool. Back to my TiAL 38mm with a new spring in it obviously.

 

[dsmornothing]

60 trim on stock injectors? Did anyone by chance think maybe he needs to upgrade his fuel system and start tuning?

 

[rEclipserGST]

60 trim on stock injectors? Did anyone by chance think maybe he needs to upgrade his fuel system and start tuning?

Should not matter with the external WG with a 7 lb spring in it.

 

[kccombs]

Yes 7 pound spring in the waste gate. Stock tsi 450 cc injectors. Stock tsi fpr and stock tsi fpr selenoid.

37 psi with the vacuum line off and plugged.

Which vaccum line pluged if i put on an after market fpr?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Which vaccum line pluged if i put on an after market fpr?

The FPR vacuum line. You pull it off the regulator, cap it with your thumb, set the pressure at 37, then reattach the line.

 

[Jon91TSi]

Yes 7 pound spring in the waste gate. Stock tsi 450 cc injectors. Stock tsi fpr and stock tsi fpr selenoid.



Which vaccum line pluged if i put on an after market fpr?

There should only be one vacuum line going to the upper portion of the aftermarket AFPR. Block it, set the pressure, and reconnect the vacuum line.

 

[compression]

I believe the noise filter is a 90 specific only part. Without the tachometer won't function but the vehicle will run.

Just bypass the fpr solenoid , run a straight vacuum line to it.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I believe the noise filter is a 90 specific only part. Without the tachometer won't function but the vehicle will run.

There are three noise condensors on 1g (not just '90) DSMs; Two in the engine bay and a third by the rear seat.

 

[kccombs]

Ok ill have to get a aftermarket afpr and see if it helps.

I believe the noise filter is a 90 specific only part. Without the tachometer won't function but the vehicle will run.

Just bypass the fpr solenoid , run a straight vacuum line to it.

And i got the noise thru the sterio corrected once i sanded a small portion of paint and primer off and put the grounds to bare metal.

1-140 PSI UNIVERSAL ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR KIT+HOSE+GAUGE BLUE | eBay

Just wanting to make sure this is what im needing. And if i get it do i still need to put the vac lin to the fpr selenoid or just leave it pluged in and no vac lines going to it or out of it

 

[compression]

its much easier to just run a line straight from the intake manifold to the regulator. it works perfectly.

make sure that regulator rises, 1 psi of fuel per 1 psi of boost. it does say

"Increase In Fuel Delivery For Turbo Car Will Provide Consistent Boost And Fuel Flow."

 

[kccombs]

its much easier to just run a line straight from the intake manifold to the regulator. it works perfectly.

make sure that regulator rises, 1 psi of fuel per 1 psi of boost. it does say

"Increase In Fuel Delivery For Turbo Car Will Provide Consistent Boost And Fuel Flow."

Sorry just doesnt make much since since the fpr is attached to the fuel rail.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Hey been trying to follow this i did the conversion what is the problem.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Sorry just doesnt make much since since the fpr is attached to the fuel rail.

All he is suggesting to do is bypass the fuel pressure solenoid. There is no need to, it's just an option. The fuel pressure solenoid's only job is to increase the fuel pressure on hot starts... thats it. Your car will still operate normally without it. So, what are your options?

• Option 1 (factory): Run 1 vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure solenoid. Run a second line from the fuel pressure solenoid to the fuel pressure regulator.
• Option 2 (bypass the solenoid): Run 1 vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. Thats it.

 

[kccombs]

All he is suggesting to do is bypass the fuel pressure solenoid. There is no need to, it's just an option. The fuel pressure solenoid's only job is to increase the fuel pressure on hot starts... thats it. Your car will still operate normally without it. So, what are your options?

• Option 1 (factory): Run 1 vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure solenoid. Run a second line from the fuel pressure solenoid to the fuel pressure regulator.
• Option 2 (bypass the solenoid): Run 1 vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator. Thats it.

Ok i read up alittle about the selenoid and basically it seems like i didnt need it at all. So ill do the delete on it. But i still leave it pluged into the harness correct? And after getting a afpr do i get an adapter for the fuel rail to hook up the new afpr so i dont have the stock fpr in?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Ok i read up alittle about the selenoid and basically it seems like i didnt need it at all. So ill do the delete on it. But i still leave it pluged into the harness correct? And after getting a afpr do i get an adapter for the fuel rail to hook up the new afpr so i dont have the stock fpr in?

On a 1g you can remove the entire solenoid pack without throwing a CEL (check engine light). If you buy an afpr kit from one of our supporting venders it will come with everything needed to install it including the adapter for the fuel rail.

 

[kccombs]

On a 1g you can remove the entire solenoid pack without throwing a CEL (check engine light). If you buy an afpr kit from one of our supporting venders it will come with everything needed to install it including the adapter for the fuel rail.

I will def have to check them out. Hopefully it will run good afterwards.