Did i blow my turbo...or worse?

[etay89]

So here's my story. On April 4th , I upgraded my turbo from a 14b to a 16g. The turbo was remanufactured and I also reused ALL oil and water lines as well as gaskets.

About 3 days after I put the turbo on, I started blowing white smoke and my engine started making a loud sound. I later found out that there was NO oil in my car. I got some lucas oil treatment and 4 qts of castrol syntec. The sound disappeared and the engine was running better. I still continued to blow white smoke (wasn't alot and the smoke was oily, a person told it was oily and my whole back bumber was covered in oil) if i would have about 30%+ throttle.

Then on Saturday, I was driving up a hill pushin about 5-10 psi, and then it made this pop sound, and then i lost all power. It just cruised at 20mph and managed to coast it about a 1/2 mile home.

The following day, I tried to turn the car on it kept making this clanking sound (it would do it before I even started the car).

So...yeah, I don't know what to think or make out of it. I plan on getting an install kit and re-installing my 14b next Thursday, but is it possible I did more damage?

Mods:
3" catback exhaust
mbc
cai
stock 450cc injectors
255lph walbro (no afpr, i know i know)
gauges: boost and aem wideband
safc2 at stock settings
ngk bpr7es spark plugs and ngk wires
auto tranny

and also a possible vac leak near my throttle body?

 

[90moneypit]

If there was no priming oil, then no oil in the engine, you drove it 'for awhile'. The turbo isn't blown, it's cooked. You can replace blown oil seals but it's a bit more to take the scoring/heat damage off the shafts and it's been rebuilt once so it may already have oversized bearings so...

Your engine? Yeah it's probably cooked too. No oil and boosting... I'd drop the oil pan and see how much metal is in the pan vs still on your main and rod bearings. With the loud pop, I wouldn't be surprised if there aren't pieces instead of flakes of metal.
Check the pan with a magnet to see how much metal there really is though.

Oh and while 6 bolts are less prone to crankwalk, they still need oil too...

 

[etay89]

I only drove around with low to no oil only 1 night and to work and half way home from work. I wasn't really boosting hard either...usually under 10 psi. Like when my car started actin funny, I drove around like that for about maybe 30 miles (and the trip to work is a 10-15 drive).

still though, you're right. I'll have a verdict thursday..hopefully it's good news.

:edit: also, after that loud pop, I was still able to drive it home the final 1/2 to 1 mile. It never overheated, filled with oil+lucas oil treatment, so it's probably bad shape..but not that bad (hopefully not)

upon further inspection...i pulled my 3rd spark plug... this is what it looked like. the top is black...it doesn't smell like gas or oil but its dry and black, so i don't know what to make of it.

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[etay89]

ok people, here's the verdict:

so last night, me and a buddy were working on the car. we changed the oil filter, and there were little flakes of silver in it..and when i say little i'm talkin microscopic. therefore i beleive i have no rod damage. we took out the 16g and man..there is a CRAPLOAD of in and out place as well as side to side. needless to say, that turbo is TOAST. but now i'm having another problem: boosting

before when I had my 14b on, i was boosting 10-15lbs easy. even when i had the 16g on, i did 14-18lbs no problem..but now it struggles to get past 5 (i'm really trying to push the car either). I made sure all the intercooler piping is connected and it is. everything is secured tight. I also did a compression test. i kno have a vac leak near my throttle body but that didnt stop me before.

4th cylinder-140psi
3rd-130psi
2nd-135psi
1st-125psi

 

[TheGreatGSX]

4th cylinder-140psi
3rd-130psi
2nd-135psi
1st-125psi

Did you do the compression test correctly? Have the car completely warm (ideally driven around the block), WOT, and cranking 4x? I've recently learned these will factor it greatly!

1stGenTSi
Yeah, blue smoke is oil, white smoke is coolant.

I've always been told white smoke = oil and blue smoke = coolant and have heard this from dozens of people on this board. I've recently had an oil leak from my old T-25's turbo seals and I was blowing white smoke

 

[Colorado KID]

My T-25 seals were bad too.. It's really hard to tell because it looks like white smoke. but it has a little blue tinge to it. It looks more white because its dumping into the exhaust (From what was explained to me). Color can also be different based on the type of oil used. Your standard vs synthetic.

Good luck man. Hopefully its just the turbo. I bought new coolant lines and new Oil lines and i have a small leak from the feed line.. and for some reason.. the coolant is barely dripping out from between the crush washers i used for the coolant lines. Eh. It doesn't seem to be making a big deal.

 

[turbo_lag92]

so let me get this straight you put the 14b back on? your only pushing 5 psi and it wont go past that? check your bov gasket, couplers, boost controller.

 

[etay89]

Did you do the compression test correctly? Have the car completely warm (ideally driven around the block), WOT, and cranking 4x? I've recently learned these will factor it greatly!



I've always been told white smoke = oil and blue smoke = coolant and have heard this from dozens of people on this board. I've recently had an oil leak from my old T-25's turbo seals and I was blowing white smoke

all i did was remove the engine fuse and try to turn the car over. each cylinder was done one by one.

and as for the smoke comment, i'm stickin with white=oil and blue=coolant

 

[talontsi1225]

You guys are wrong. White is coolant and blue is oil! White smoke is coolant for when the ethalyn glucole(sorry on spelling) gets in the cylinder it burns and exits the exhaust. Plugs your plugs and see if they are greenish tint. And do a wet compression test to see if your rings are bad. Dump a little oil in the cylinders through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. They should raise like 5 psi but if they rise noticable then you need new piston rings too. Hope that info is good

 

[90moneypit]

Yes, white smoke is coolant. Blue smoke is oil, and black is fuel. It's been that way since the invention of the internal combustion engine and will stay that way until they change one of those three to something else. For example, I don't think too much fuel in a hydrogen powered car would blow black smoke...

If you want even more proof, the new e-cigarettes use glycol to suspend the nicotine, it's vaporized and you inhale/exhale a whitish vapor.

 

[JusMX141]

The car is untuneable with the AFC. I believe someone hooked the AFC up wrong upon installation, and the ECU is in limp mode. I tried swapping a known working MAS and it made no difference.

I rebuilt etay's Big 16G, and the journal bearings were destroyed from foreign material being injested into the oil supply. Could mean his engine is on the way out....but without a good tune it's impossible to rule out engine noises or running conditions.

 

[etay89]

and the journal bearings were destroyed from foreign material being injested into the oil supply. Could mean his engine is on the way out....but without a good tune it's impossible to rule out engine noises or running conditions.

why you gotta say it like that man!?

i took my car to advanced and right now, i'm throwing 2 error codes: p0135 and p0100. i'm not worried about the 0135 but the 0100, i AM worried about. i was driving the car last night and then the engine just cut off. there was no foreign sound, the car was running incredibly rich and bogging down bad. i probably just destroyed my engine like a dumb ass.

my next steps are rewire the safc and check/correct the wires for maf. if none of that works, i'll replace the ecu. if that doesnt work, i now pronounce arby dead ...

or get a 6 bolt