Detonation no matter what i do. GRRRR! lol

[a1320eclipse]

Well....fixed the boost leaks. Its pretty sealed up. Takes over a minute to bleed off 15psi and will hold 2psi . but that didnt fix the problem. All it did was keep the MAF from being over run at 15psi. Still picking up knock at around 5k. Tried going super aggressive on taking timing out. Im lost. Got it down to pulling around 1.4* at 15psi. Guess ill jus leave it there.

 

[chanley talon]

Check your harmonic balancer.the rubber tends to crack and the balancer separates itself slowly and this can also cause knock issues.
I would also change the oil if it hasn't been changed.A noisy valve train will cause false knock.

 

[a1320eclipse]

I initialy thought about all that stuff. But considering that i can eliminate knock with turning down the boost under 13 or so lbs. And if i go above 14-14 i have to retard the timing but it doesnt go away, just reduces it, and it always comes in around 5k.

 

[yukiz]

first, adjust your TPS, throttle position (make sure they are 0% TPS volt .63v when idle, and 100% TPS volt 5V at woot, you can tune this while your car off.) warm up car, Adjust BISS screw, and log for ISC position, make sure you are at a range 28 to 33. and post your idle log in operating temperature. because idle is very important before you do further adjustment. first time screwed up, all your adjustment wont be acurate....

 

[a1320eclipse]

first, adjust your TPS, throttle position (make sure they are 0% TPS volt .63v when idle, and 100% TPS volt 5V at woot, you can tune this while your car off.) warm up car, Adjust BISS screw, and log for ISC position, make sure you are at a range 28 to 33. and post your idle log in operating temperature. because idle is very important before you do further adjustment. first time screwed up, all your adjustment wont be acurate....

Thats all fine. And i deleted the ISC motor under the TB. The car starts and idles 1000rpm.

 

[EVO_THREE]

What's your base timing set to?

 

[Armandotech]

I had the same issue with a car I was tuning a while ago with Dsmlink, it would just know no matter what I did so I turned the knock sensor off and problem solved the car made the power it was suppose to with no issues. As long as you know the timing the engine needs and you don't go crazy with it you don't really need a knock sensor

 

[DJ23GSX]

Like stated before your asking waaay too much out of that stock intercooler to run 20psi on the 14b. With evo 560's safc and the stock intercooler I was only able to get 15-16psi anything more and heatsoak and knock owned me. The only guys I've ever seen personally run 20+psi on the stock sidemount were all running race gas to do it and it was just for a 1/4 mile pass not daily driving.



I just reread this thead and all this talk of intake temps is confusing. What type of MAF are you running? If its a 1g or 2g maf then those intake air temps are at the maf so they are not your temps entering the enging after the intercooler. After intercooler temps are probly way higher especially on the stock sidemount.

9!'clipseDOHC your running speed density so I'm guess your intake temps are being read after the intercooler?