CV Axle/Tranny

[djailer]

97 GST 150K. Well, I was almost home last night. I turned the corner on my street and at first I thought I just missed 2nd gear. I tried again and nothing happened...I just coasted to a stop. No noises or anything, the engine was running fine. I found I could shift into any gear without the clutch. Putting the clutch in didn't affect anything. I got out and looked behind the drivers side front wheel. I could see the shaft turning freely along with the engine? Nothing seemed to be hanging.

The clutch was just rebuilt two, three years ago and I am not hard on it - this is my daily driver. I am about to go out and take a look but I thought I would put this out there for any suggestions for when I come back in. Any thoughts about what I am going to find? What to check specifically?

Doug

 

[pauleyman]

Looks like you broke an axle. The axles can move on their own in neutral if there is nothing stopping them, like a car on the ground. You will see this when the car is on jackstands with the motor running. If the axle is moving but the car isn't look at the end at the wheel.

 

[djailer]

And the reveal...It didn't break, but somehow it popped out of the hub.

I have had the car for three years. The previous owner says it is lowered 3" and I guess I believe it. I can't get my floor jack under it unless I get it started in the wheel well. Naturally the ride is pretty hard for a daily driver. I have stumbled into a pot hole or bump now and then and jarred my teeth but nothing else has ever come of it.

When I made the left turn I ran through a rough part in the road and somewhere between the start of the turn and after the rough spot is where I guess it popped out.

Is this something that all the stars lined up for and just happened? I figure the suspension is pretty tight and should not normally allow enough travel for the axle to pop out like that. The boot was off of the inner seal when I got the car in the air. The axle must've traveled quite a bit. When I took the hub off I noted that the joint was angled dramatically and it took a gentle tap to get it back to the center. All the bearings seem to be there and there is plenty of grease. Could it be bad anyway? I can always replace the joint but is there something else going on? I don't want to connect everything back up just to have it pop out again - this time maybe in a less convenient spot.

The other thing I am wondering is why the transmission wouldn't still work - at least somewhat? I assume the passenger side is OK, I will find out for sure when I get that side lifted. Don't both wheels get driven? If so it seems the passenger side should move when it is in gear?

Thanks for any insight.

Doug

 

[bryanwheat]

If one axle is not engaged to the wheel than the car will not move when in gear. The differential is just an open diff, it just has spyder gears. Looks like someone didn't install that axle with the correct locking clip. The shaft should have a metal internal locking clip just like the transmission side axle cup to lock it into the axle hub.

 

[rbwtrans]

Personally, I've seen bad lower ball joints (both) cause the spindle to move outward enough to cause this. I would check the ball joints and remove the axle to check that the c-clip isn't damaged. Also check your axle seal. A leaking axle seal can destroy your transmission if it goes un-noticed.

 

[bryanwheat]

Personally, I've seen bad lower ball joints (both) cause the spindle to move outward enough to cause this. I would check the ball joints and remove the axle to check that the c-clip isn't damaged. Also check your axle seal. A leaking axle seal can destroy your transmission if it goes un-noticed.

The inner axle will flex or separate before the outside separates. The inner slides in and our in the cup. If the outer joint comes apart it is damaged or the clip is bad.

 

[buhay6]

Ya definitely check the CV first and for most, then ball joints and with your CV out your axel seals are right there so you can check those basically right when you pull the CV. I'd just replace the CV seeing as its already out and how many years old it is already but that's your call, its just what I'd do. keep us updated bud!

 

[djailer]

Thanks for all the feedback. I will go with the suggestion of just replacing the entire axle assembly...by the time I buy the outer CV - assuming I can even find it around here - and boot I will spend as much as an entire new axle w/both joints and boots - ($95). I don't have to worry about which part was bad and I won't get as greasy!!! ! New seal for the tranny side as well...thanks for the reminder. 150K is pretty much the lifespan for a CV anyway from what I have been reading. Which means time to replace the passenger side as well.

By check the ball joints is it just be sure they aren't loose or?? I will google this as well. I am trying not to bust them open so I don't have to press them back - 'cause I don't have one. To get the axle out I used another suggestion I found...remove the lower control arms on the body side and the wheel moves out enough to get the axle in and out...barely!! Those both just bolt back on - theoretically

Doug

 

[bryanwheat]

Thanks for all the feedback. I will go with the suggestion of just replacing the entire axle assembly...by the time I buy the outer CV - assuming I can even find it around here - and boot I will spend as much as an entire new axle w/both joints and boots - ($95). I don't have to worry about which part was bad and I won't get as greasy!!! ! New seal for the tranny side as well...thanks for the reminder. 150K is pretty much the lifespan for a CV anyway from what I have been reading. Which means time to replace the passenger side as well.

By check the ball joints is it just be sure they aren't loose or?? I will google this as well. I am trying not to bust them open so I don't have to press them back - 'cause I don't have one. To get the axle out I used another suggestion I found...remove the lower control arms on the body side and the wheel moves out enough to get the axle in and out...barely!! Those both just bolt back on - theoretically

Doug

I always take the upper ball joint loose than unbolt the strut fork from the lower control arm and unbolt the brake caliper. That will give you plenty enough room to get the axle out. As for replacing the axles at high mileage. I would leave the other alone until it's bad. If the boot is good and it has grease in it than it will usually last for a very long time. Sometimes when you buy parts from parts stores you get an inferior produce that will sometimes wear out faster than what the old one would of lasted. That is why i don't like to replace things that aren't broken.

 

[djailer]

I got it all back together tonight. Only took about 2 hours to get the new axle in. Popped into the tranny just like it is supposed to. Only question I have....I removed the old seal and a very small O ring fell out- maybe 1 1/2 inch around? I didn't see any place for it to sit on the tranny side so I put it on the end of the axle and popped it in. I had to unbolt the lower control arm, the lateral control arm (?)from the body and take out the shock mounting bolt. Didn't have to pop any ball joints though I got the wheel assembly out of the way enough to get the axle in there.

The fluid didn't look anything like the fluid I got from Baxters. It was light green and semi thick. Not like the 75-90 gear oil the counter guy gave me. What's up with that? It barely dripped any out so I figure, being jacked up as high in the air as I had to get it to work under it was it is probably OK. Both wheels on that side were off the ground!

Tooled down my road, did a close U-turn to the left, and made it back home. Good to go I hope. The manual said to set the car on the ground before tightening the main lower control arm through-bolt but on my car that is never going to happen. I would have to find a lift somewhere and put it over my head. We'll see how that works.

Any ideas about that O ring?

Thanks

Doug

 

[djailer]

Funny I am back to this thread. I just noticed a leak coming out from where the axle clips into the transaxle. I put the seal in, but ??? What about that O ring I mentioned? I am concerned but really dread taking that all apart again. I wouldn't know what I was looking at anyway. Unless the seal is totally munged or something. And, I am betting the turquoise fluid is Royal Purple Syncromesh or something.

My immediate problem is how to get the new fluid in in the meantime. I found the fill hole - and it is on top of the casing, not the side. Maybe I need to read again but I thought you added fluid until it drips out of the hole.....Gonna be a long ways until that drips up! What am I missing??

I am attaching a photo showing the side of the housing. **This is not the leaky side ** The fill plug is on top (Red Circle) and I assume the huge one under the axle is the drain.

What is the official method and how do I determine when enough is enough?

Thanks millions.

 

[boost97gst]

Same thing happened to my passenger side the other day. I popped the boot off and the bearing assembly in the cup was cocked at a 45* angle! , bought a new one, no problems whatsoever. These open differentials really suck. Had i known how bad the torque steer was i would have sprung for the quaife lsd. Thats my next mod for SURE. Im only laying down 240 at 12psi right now and its all over when i nail it. Id hope a LSD helps with that problem.

 

[djailer]

OK, I messed up. I found the breather hole, not the fill plug. Thanks to this post: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151508853-post4.html

I think that answers the question about how much. I think I know where to look for the fill plug but I swear I checked that side out up and down and didn't see it. It should be around to the right of the photo. I will take another even closer look tonight.

I suspect I know the answer but how much trouble am I getting into driving it with a leak? I don't see more than a few spots under the car when I park it, but the supports under the transaxle are pretty gooey. I got about 1/4 of a bottle in last night just in case. Should it leak more when I am driving? I assume there is no real pressure in there but there are moving parts. I have to get to work and back for the rest of the week but Saturday I can take that axle apart and see if the clip worked loose or something. I was pretty sure I got it to catch when I installed the axle.

 

[djailer]

Bad axle seal...ordered a new one from ExtremePSI and will put it in this AM. I am curious though....in a post in the Drivetrain section someone implies that the seal goes flat side out? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/429704-axle-seals-leaking.html

All the photos I found look like the flat side went towards the tranny. Am I missing something?

Doug

 

[bryanwheat]

Bad axle seal...ordered a new one from ExtremePSI and will put it in this AM. I am curious though....in a post in the Drivetrain section someone implies that the seal goes flat side out? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/429704-axle-seals-leaking.html

All the photos I found look like the flat side went towards the tranny. Am I missing something?

Doug

The flat side does go on the outside. The spring around the lip will always be on the inside.

 

[djailer]

OK, got that. The new one didn't look too much like the old one - there was no place for a spring around the inside on the old one. It looked more like this.Old one - basic 'U' shape And when I took it out it was flat side in. The new one looked at lot like this one....2G Axle Seal Replacement-(scroll down a bit). I checked with the Mitsu dealer and made sure I ordered the correct part #. There was the same lip on the outside edge but I didn't see anywhere on the axle where that might match up. And mine seated further in to where the lip just stuck out at the edge...a bit further in than this one but it is seated all the way in at the bottom too. Maybe that photo was the passenger side. Putting the axle in might have driven it the rest of the way in anyway...I did see a suggestion somewhere to put the seal on the axle and put the whole thing into the transfer case. I chose the hammer and 2x4 method.

The new one did have a spring on the inside. So far so good...no leaks yet

 

[boost97gst]

I hope you have more success than i did. I bought a new pass side seal, it too looked a bit different but i installed it anyway. No leaks for about a week or 2(maybe 100 miles of driving) Went out the other day and theres a couple fresh drops of fluid in the driveway.... Same damn seal. Im going to order another one, this time from mitsu or extremepsi and be done with it. Autozone always sells SHIT parts. And at like 9$ a quart for synth tranny fluid, this is getting old!!
On topic, im glad yours is fixed, please, if you find time, update this thread in a few weeks or a couple hundred miles and let me know if your seal is holding up well. Thank you

 

[djailer]

BTW, the Mitsu part # the dealer gave me was MD742053. It matches up with what I found online. That is the front, driver's side.

 

[djailer]

OK, so far so good. 200 miles and no leaks. Looks like I did something right!!!!

I have gathered from lots of posts - and maybe a signature or two - that you don't buy an Eclipse if you don't want to get grease under your fingernails. Next fix is a tossup. Even though I have almost no idea of what I am doing when it comes to electrical I have two fixes to try. There is a short somewhere and I am not even sure where to start. When I have the turn signal on I see the check engine light pulse in synch with the turn lamps. The CEL is for the rear O2 sensor which I think is out but I am ignoring that until I get closer to emissions time.

The other choice is to try to re-hook my alarm back up. My GST came with a Turbo-Timer installed and I never used it...couldn't figure out why I would even try with a 5-speed. Not like I am going to put it in neutral, set the brake, and hope it doesn't roll anywhere while it does it's thing. I never race it (its my DD) and although it is lots of fun to run the turbo up now and then I always have plenty of normal drive time before I get into the driveway. One day I decided to take it out. Long story short I probably should not have tried. The wiring job was screwy - all white wires and blue connectors - and I wasn't able to get the ignition hooked up right. Cost me almost $200 to have someone fix it. When they did that they disconnected the alarm - they told me they had no way of knowing what should've gone where in all the spaghetti.

Now the alarm has only four wires. The install directions seem reasonable. Find the door switch wires, power, etc. and hook 'em up. Unhooking the TT also seemed to be a breeze and look where that got me. There seems to be plenty of posts about this kind of hookup but am I being overly optimistic here?

Any thoughts, suggestions, other?

Doug