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Cruise log, need some help w/ 02 sensor

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DSM_munky_man

10+ Year Contributor
1,128
6
Sep 20, 2010
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Alright went for a cruise to see what o2 sensor did cause I am sure it is bad. during the cruise it stayed at .04 untill i opened it up well enough then read between that and a volt, but it doesnt oscillate like it should during normal operation, Is this cause it is bad. I am sure it is and did the test w/ the DMM and it didnt do what it should, but the source volts is good. So it registeered voltage w/ increased exhaust flow but doesnt oscillate, is this still a bad sensor?
 

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Would a dead o2 also have rough idle that likes to die? And knock at boost levels that I had before I added the injectors and fuel stuff?
 
C'mon ppl please help!! Also I changed the o2 sensor and nothing changed, so my thought is am I running extremely lean? Cause it will read when I am under hard accel. And also I think the PO may have installed the narrow band wrong and just unhooked the volt feed to the narrowband and not to the comp, but that doesnt make as much sense since I still get reading under heavy accel. Please help me I need this running good ASAP!!

Also please help me out in this thread as well, it will help me out and I need it bad and fast!!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/386210-uknown-connector-need-help-fast.html
 
Get a wideband. Learning how to tune doesn't always pan out very well. Add in trying to do it blindly, and you could be in trouble.

Turn the boost down to wastegate. Try to sit at idle and get your injector size, and deadtime dialed in to where the narrowband o2 cycle's. Wait for a wideband to up the boost and tune much more.
 
I am pretty sure I am at wastegate pressure, it is about 9 or so psi, I can turn the boost controller down one more click though, I am not sure if that is wastegate or lower then wastegate. And I want a WB but no money right now for anything, even bills, so I am stuck with what I got. And sounds good, I will try that. And injector size and global is already set, the ahd then when I bought the stuff, but deadtime is already way up, should I adjust it down or up?
 
are you running the stock maf ? if you are indeed running stock then go to maf comp in link and lower your 50 and 100 hz sliders down a bit till your airflow per rev drops down to .25 or atleast in the neighborhood .
 
Yes stock maf. I have tried that and no matter how low I go with the mafcomp sliders it will only go
down to like .30-.32 and won't go no lower.
 
Definitely try and replace the o2 sensor.. That is what tells the engine to do with the mixture. In your logs you will notice when the o2 sensor reads low, your combined fuel trim goes up and you get a rich mixture. If it reads high then your fuel trim is decreased and your lean. So if you are not familiar with tuning, try replacing your o2 first, as it can get really confusing when you start to adjust things in dsmlink.

Correct me if im wrong anyone
 
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Already tried switching out o2 sensor and has the same results. No oscillation but volts go up under heavy accel.

Also there is white chalk stuff on the o2 sensor when I pulled it out, I am assuming that is cause it is running lean?
 
The first 2 just like the instruction videos say, then I smooth it out as well. I think the first one is @ 13 then 10 and then the next 2 or 3 or lower just to smooth it out. Also there is white chalky stiff on the o2 sensor, I am guessing I am running lean. I am going to pull plugs tomorrow and check the story on them.
 
Ok, well from looking at your log something is definitely interfering with your o2 sensor. I would check on your throtle position sensor. It says your at 0% but your RPM's are still moving up.
 
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look at the log at idle when it is warmed up . then look at maf raw.it's at like 50 to 60 hertz at idle. so dont worry about anything lower then that right now. go directly to the 50 and 100 hertz sliders . those 2 dots are the ones youll move . take away until your airflow per rev drops down to .25. i think whats happening is you are seeing to much air at the maf and its pushing fuel accordingly and the ecu is staying in open loop. hence no o2 readings. you can sit in the driveway to do this part. give it a try
 
Are you sure about the tps? I remember looking at it and it goes up when I push the pedal, but I wll check again tomorrow. And ill try adjusting the sliders down more too. As of right now I am on my blackberry at schoo so I can't do anything now.
 
if you have idle surge the rpms will go up and down without the throttle or the tps moving. so as long as it reads when you push on the throttle. zero at rest and 100 at wot you should be good.
 
look at the log at idle when it is warmed up . then look at maf raw.it's at like 50 to 60 hertz at idle. so dont worry about anything lower then that right now. go directly to the 50 and 100 hertz sliders . those 2 dots are the ones youll move . take away until your airflow per rev drops down to .25. i think whats happening is you are seeing to much air at the maf and its pushing fuel accordingly and the ecu is staying in open loop. hence no o2 readings. you can sit in the driveway to do this part. give it a try

Yes, try this.. here is a video to help you in the process. Watch this video first and it will help a lot/make more sence when you actually go to try and mess with air flow per rev

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html
 
Already watched that a million times. The only way to get my airflow per rev to .25 area is adjusting the global fuel. so it went from -63.3 to -50.8%. Still no o2 reading. When I adjusted the mafcomp tool it wouldnt change anything and the lowest I could get it was .36 but was jumping from there to .40. I had it adjusted bout halfway down and up above the zero, both ways to the point where it wouldnt even idle correctly and wanted to die. So i zeroed it and messed with the global fuel to see if I could richen it up a bit. Well it runs a lil better and airflow per rev is where it should be, but still no o2 reading. But my NB reads lean to good when I throttle it. and when I cruise it comes from lean to good while cruising on the pedal, but when I let off it goes away down on the lean side. I know NB isn't a tuning tool and nothing more than a light show most the time, but it still tells me what my o2 is doing and reading. Here are 2 logs from when I adjusted stuff. the first I think is when I had it at -51.6% and second is at -55.x%. and as of now it is at -50.8%.

Also all the plugs look like this as well.
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Not sure if it was mentioned before either, the o2 Sensor had some white chalky stuff on it too, same as plugs.
 

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Your stuck in open loop accordinly to your logs. Try adjusting your open loop thresholds, that is what allows your o2 sensor to read/oscillate. Trying to think of other ways I can help you.. if this does't work

And your o2 is white because your running lean.
 
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Alright, what should I set them too? They are still in the stock settings now. Go lower or higher? And that should open up my tuning right so i can adjust mafcomp and my deadtime? Should I put everything else back to original settings after I adjust the open loop threshholds.
 
i would set the injector global settings back to where you had it. then adjust the 50 and 100 hertz sliders on your maf comp till you get the airflow per rev hovering as close to .25 as you can get it. and judging from your log the combined fuel trim was plus 16.5 precent.which means the ecu is trying to add fuel to avoid being lean so youll have to add to the dead time on the injectors till you get the combined fuel trim to plus or minus 5 percent. and get back to us.
 
Well on the way to school today at idle no action from my NB but when I hit the gas it jumped to ideal. Then cruising it bounced back and forth. So I ran home and grabbed the computer to log some stuff, and it turns out that at idle or when the idle switch is on (for the most part) I am in open loop, once I get cruising and have some throttle on it it will be closed loop and the o2 will oscillate like normal. Also at idle I get some surge and when the rpms jump up it goes closed and they come back down and it goes to open and so on. You can see this in the logs, they are a bit lengthy cause It is a 5-7 min drive, but just skim through to check the idle times and then the cruising. One is on just streets to school, stop and go. The other is mostly freeway, that way you can see a longer period of the closed loop. This is with the same settings as before, nothing changed, still not sure one what to do to get it to closed loop just at idle. I looked at the threshholds for open loop and got lost, maybe if soemone can open the log then up the directacces for the log and let me know what to put them at so I can get closed loop at idle. Here are the logs.
 

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Latest log, things are idling better and get some action on the NB and on link w/ the o2. At the end of the log i messed with some settings cause the airflowperrev was down like .17-.19 So i tried adjusting mafcomp up and then doing some deadtime adjustmants and global but got it a lil more dialed in but FT's do some wacky stuff at the end too.

I guess the log wont attach cause it is too big, I can email to anyone who has interest to look and help me out.

Here is a link to the ecmlink website, the bottom-most log is the newest. Please take a look.

ECMTuning User Support Forums
 
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Couple more logs, I think it is dialed in pretty well, the first is some idle, then some cruise and idle, the second is cruise and some harder accelerations (not WOT).
 

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