Crankwalk/Rebuild ?'s (Long)

[Detail]

A month ago I was driving home. I pushed in the clutch at a light, started hearing a whinning belt type noise and the rpms started falling. Drove the last mile home, parked the car. Then towed the car 300 miles north to my friends shop. They check the block and determine that I do indeed have the dreaded crankwalk. They of course attest it to the act2600 that I ran for 50k miles. The car currently has 146k on the odometer. It is a 95 talon tsi awd. I scored another block(not walked) from a friend (for the free) and also got it 300 miles north to the shop. Oh, and I'm a poor college student.(emphasis on poor)

Now you've been brought up to speed. Here comes the ?'s. Opinions are welcome.

What in the hell do I do? Cost is always an issue to a college student. I make somewhere around 5.15 an hour. I obviously don't enjoy walking. However I don't want to just throw some b/s in my baby and chance this happening again in a few months. I've been thinking about getting a http://machv.com/comenrebkit.html (rebuild kit) and trying to afford some decent rods, maybe eagle. Getting a machine shop to bore my newly acquired block .20 over and decking it. Then getting my shop to install the new parts, score new water/oil pumps, and throw my old 2g head on. Thats the best plan I can come up with. Cost is estimated somewhere from 2-2500 out the door with labor/parts/and machine work.

If you were me, what would your plan of action be? I know its hard but please try to refrain from the "shoot urself in the head type statements"

Thanks in advance.
D

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

you could look into a 6 bolt swap too. There is a lot of info on that here on tuners.

 

[1fast97gsx]

how bad is the crankwalk? What all is damaged so far? In some cases reworking the crank and replacing the bearings will fix it. If it's already kinda bad then a complete rebuild would be needed. What is wrong with the block you just got from a friend because you said you want to have it bored? Did it come with pistons and rods? Crank?

 

[igopoopy]

if i where you i would see if there is any dsm'ers in your area that can help you do the swap that will save a ton of money
you can get a 6 bolt (they dont walk as much)
there are alot of people on this site that can help you just ask!

 

[Detail]

at first thought I thought I would just change the bearings and call it a day. However after further speculation I decided not to chance it happening again on the same block. I mean chances are that once it walks, it'l be more likely to walk again. I cant prove that...but its kind of like a broken bone, once healed its still not as strong as it once was.

6 bolt is outta the ? Too much money for parts, too much labor, and I was told I would need a dsm link to make it run perfectly.

So...Still stuck. Good sudgestions though.

The block I recieved for the free has about 160k on it. The pistons arent torn up and the rods are probably still okay too. However the person drove the car across town with a badly blown head gasket and the thing overheating. I'm assuming there is some warpage across the block. Plus I just wanna start with something new. I can't be doing this rebuilding thing every year. I just cant afford to.

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Actually I was always told most broken bones heal stronger than they were. Of course since blocks don't heal I would agree with you there.
Do some searches here I don't know a lot about the 6 bolt swap but I have never heard you need a DSM link. I think you need to swap some parts but I don't think it's any thing too hard.
I can see why you don't want to go that way. It may be a little more expensive but I would be skeptical putting an overheated 7 bolt block in. It just seems like too much could go wrong.

 

[honduraneclipse]

6 bolt is outta the ? Too much money for parts, too much labor, and I was told I would need a dsm link to make it run perfectly. NO YOU DONT NEED DSMLINK FOR IT TO RUN PERFECT I JUST FINISHED THE 6 BOLT SWAP ON MINE AND NO ENGINE CHECK LIGHT CAME ON

However the person drove the car across town with a badly blown head gasket and the thing overheating. GO TO A JUNK YARD GET YOUR SELF A 6 BOLT BLOCK MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE OIL COOLER OF THE CAR YOU ARE GOING TO NEED IT


OH YEAH BY THE WAY I CAN GET YOU THE 6 BOLT SWAP WITH PARTS & LABOR ALL FOR 2900$ ALL NEW PARTS LIKE GASKETS AND TIMING BELTS COME DOWN TO SALEM MASSACHUSETTS AND ILL MAKE THINGS HAPPEN

 

[half-cocked]

OK, what about just swapping out cranks? Depending on how far you got into the bearing determines if the crank gets thrashed. The block should be fine, how would crankwalk ruin a block?

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

OK, what about just swapping out cranks? Depending on how far you got into the bearing determines if the crank gets thrashed. The block should be fine, how would crankwalk ruin a block?

From what I have read it is not positively known wheather it is the block, the crank, or something else or multiple things. The Safest way seems to be to go with a full 6 bolt bottom end.

 

[Defiant]

They of course attest it to the act2600 that I ran for 50k miles. The car currently has 146k on the odometer. It is a 95 talon tsi awd.

If it lasted 146K, and they're thinking the clutch caused it after 50K, I'd tend to disagree with their diagnosis.
Your motor just wore out. I'm sure the car wouldn't have noticed if it were you or my mother driving it

Maybe the heavy clutch affected the thrust bearing wear, but even if it did, I'd have that crank and block carefully measured and inspected. It sounds like it was a good one.

You might want to go with a lower-pressure clutch if you're the superstitious type, but face it: very few of us are going to do another 50K in a DSM. Do you think you're one of them who will?

 

[hellotbone]

I would have to say that the 6bolt swap is much more economical. I am doing mine right now on my 95 TSI AWD which had some serious rod knock in the 7bolt. I am also doing an auto to manual swap at the same time.

I paid 1500 Canadian for the JDM 6bolt complete swap my 7bolt sensors and go.

 

[huafist]

I'd agree with the 6-bolt swap under ideal circumstances. In my experience it's not a question of "if" a 7-bolt manual is gonna walk, it's "when".
But again, you're poor like me, and you got a free block. I'd tear the oil pan off the new block, check my clearances, check my piston rings up top, check the deck for trueness, and if all is well, I'd just replace all the gaskets/seals, slap a head on it and call it a day. If you're really paranoid, re-ring it and replace the rod/main bearings. It won't be any less/more reliable than if you spent money on pistons, boring, and eagle rods, but it'll cost a hell of a lot less. The topline rebuild kit you linked to above would do fine for your purposes I would think. Regardless of which way you go, it's not gonna effect the chances of the block in question crankwalking.

 

[Detail]

well i really agree with huafist. the block i had seemed to be from a "monday" car. I have a reputation for really putting a hurt on my stuff. However I do take good care of it and insure the best possible products are in or on it. I think you misunderstood what I meant about the last clutch. I drove the car from 80k to like 140k with one clutch. That was probably 500 street launches, countless hours of mountain road racing, and a few times of actually going to the track. Also it accounted for about 50 drives to and from school which is 500 miles roundtrip. My mechanics are very skilled people and close personal friends. I'm trying to go the route they think I should go. My wrench says throw some bearings in my old block, new oil pump, water pump...and call it a day. The owner of the shop says maybe I should accept the downtime and try to make things a little bit better down there. I dunno which is the right one.

Six boltage...To the person who writes in ALL CAPS, The car is registered in Atlanta, Ga which has smog regulations. Throwing codes is not allowed. I said that I was told the car needed the link to run PERFECT. Not just run...I would like to do the 6 bolt swap, but I really dont want to rock that lower compression either. I dont have money for a bigger turbo to even that out.

I dont know what to do. I'm glad you guys are looking into this though. Who knows, one day your fine like me, and the next your really in my shoes. Keep sudgesting.

 

[huafist]

I've never heard of having to use a DSMLink to make a 6 bolt run right in a 2G. The primary differences are the CAS, oil cooler, flywheel, heater hoses, and water outlet (thermostat housing). You'll have to use your 2G Alternator (controlled partially by the ECU) and P/S pump.
I'm in the process of mirroring Magnus Motorsports 6 bolt swap article (snagged it from the Wayback Machine).

 

[yoshimitsuspeed]

Dude Have you done crankwalk and 6 bolt swap searches on this site yet? You keep asking questions I have seen awnserd a dozen times. Most people I have read who do the 6 bolt swap use 1g rods because they are stronger, and 2g pistons (I am pretty sure the reason they do this is to get 2g compression).

Quote
Defiant
Maybe the heavy clutch affected the thrust bearing wear, but even if it did, I'd have that crank and block carefully measured and inspected. It sounds like it was a good one.

^^^I would try this first
If any thing is out of spec look at second options

Quote
honduraneclipse
NO YOU DONT NEED DSMLINK FOR IT TO RUN PERFECT I JUST FINISHED THE 6 BOLT SWAP ON MINE AND NO ENGINE CHECK LIGHT CAME ON

^^^ He might write a little funny but I think translated he is saying. No you don't need DSM link for it to run perfect. I just finished the 6 bolt swap on my car and NO check engine light came on.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126399&highlight=bolt+swap

I am sure there are vfaqs on the swap but I can't find one. Maybe someone else can point it out

 

[honduraneclipse]

sorry for writing all in CAPS but i was trying to distinquish, between his qoute and mines... yes, by the way smog regulations have nothing to do with your new 6 bolt running perfect... if your worried about your smog regulations then make sure , your catalytic converter is clean and working perfect and also stick with your stock exhaust, new wires,plugs, good working maf sensor etc.etc.etc....im not saying you absolutely dont need DSM link ...but sometimes you do because 1. its a good investment in the long run to tune....2. it also helps you clear trouble codes ( due to low maintenance on the car done by you or the previous owner) which in case that would be the reason why the 6 bolt didnt run perfect when you first crancked over the car..

 

[Detail]

Yes I have looked into what is needed for the 6 bolt swap, but you know just as I do that the magnusmotorsports website is down and I can't look through and see exactly what it takes. I need to know down to the DIME how much this would cost me to do. I gotta front this and in the mean time, WALK everywhere. With that outta that way, the rest of you, THANK you for your help. I found someone with a recently rebuilt 6 bolt.
It has:

Machine Hone,Deck,Vat,Polish Crank
New Rock Oil Pump
It has 2ng gen pistons with 1st gen rods with ARP rod bolts. machined,installed the rods on the pistons and rod bolts.
I used honda bond on the oil pan.
Clevite Conecting and Main Bearings
New Hastings Rings
New Bosch Water Pump
New Engine Gasket Set
New Arp Head Studs
New Mitsubishi Timing Adjuster
New Mitsubishi Balance Shaft Bearings
Machine installed the bearings.
Cylinder Head Exchange...Complete Head and Valve Job
New Alt Belt
New Mitsubishi Timing Belt
New Balance Shaft Belt
New Mitsubishi Timing Belt Cover
New Mitsubishi Knock Sensor, Front Water Pipe, Line from Front Water Pipe to turbo
New mitsubishi Crank Pully
Used Alt.
Black Powder Coated Valve Cover
Polished Intake manifold

for 1k.

Sound like the way to go?
What else might I need? 7 bolt clutch work?