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"Cranking way slow" Help

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zachsEVO3

15+ Year Contributor
169
2
Apr 1, 2008
Ithaca, New York
So the GEN 2 MAFT wiring is cleaned up and nothing was wrong with anything I did there


But my mechanic is still telling me hes having a hell of a time getting it running and that its "cranking way slow" even with a new battery and alternator.

He asked me how it ran before the GM conversion and far as i can remember not to well which is why I did it, but that was purely battery power and fueling. Last time it did move on its own was to go in n outta the paint shop a year ago.

Should I ask him if he can get any CEL's for me er what?:banghead:
 
you have to have so many cca(cold cranking amps) on the battery for it to turn over right. I belive atleast 580cca on dsm you might have gotten the wrong size battery for your car
 
i second that. check and make sure the battery has the correct cca rating before trying anything. just because the battery is new doesnt mean you were given the correct one. battery size could be the same, but cca rating could be wrong
 
Update he tried it with a 700cca battery and its still cranking slow, what else could be the problem?

FYI the last time it moved under its own power was to get out of the paint shop like over a year ago....before the GM conversion but what about that would make it crank way slow?? Educate me, oh wise ones.
 
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Im not sure why the car is cranking over slowly. Thats souly battery/starter. I have WAY less CCA because Im using a mini battery and it still cranks normally. Im sure this is a dumb question but is the battery charged?
 
you can ohm out the battery wires going form the battery to the starter and from the starter to ground. This will see if there is any corrosion or something causing high ohms. Also you do put your digital multi meter on the battery and get the voltage when it is sitting there....then the voltage when it is trying to turn over and see the difference...i would say it shouldnt drop below 11v when it is cranking...and if it is there is some GFS (green fuzzy stuff), corosion or a break in the battery lines somewhere.
 
have you rebuilt your motor? If so, Ive seen guys over torque thier bearings and the crank will turn very very sloooooooowly because of the lack of clearances. I would almost bet there is an issue with your battery or starter. I would first start at the battery and get it fully charged/tested by your local checkers or autozone and see if you got a bad batt. If not I would check and make sure there is NO corrosion on the terminals and all wiring going to and from your batt and starter. Let us know what happens. Good luck
 
you can ohm out the battery wires going form the battery to the starter and from the starter to ground. This will see if there is any corrosion or something causing high ohms. Also you do put your digital multi meter on the battery and get the voltage when it is sitting there....then the voltage when it is trying to turn over and see the difference...i would say it shouldnt drop below 11v when it is cranking...and if it is there is some GFS (green fuzzy stuff), corosion or a break in the battery lines somewhere.

don't do an ohm's test. it doesn't tell you a thing. all it needs is one wire out of 50 and your ohms test will say it good.

to the OP, do a voltage drop test. test the voltage of the battery (post to post) and the starter selenoid to battery (measuring accross the wire). if the differance is more than half a volt, there is excessive resistance (dirty connections, bad wiring, etc.)

the goal here is too make sure your starter is actually getting ALL the voltage and amperage the battery is putting out.
 
If so, Ive seen guys over torque thier bearings and the crank will turn very very sloooooooowly because of the lack of clearances.

Ummm no.. Doesn't work that way. Bearing clearance is set by the bearings and the crank itself, not how much you tighten the crank caps down.
 
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