The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Slow Starting Slow Cranking Starter PASS

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JuiceGsTurbo024

20+ Year Contributor
167
0
Mar 3, 2003
209, California
Ok i searched i got a few answers but let me tell you i already checked fuel and i checked spark iam getting spark but i am about to change spark plugs and then i am going to change the CAM angle sensor but if that does not work what else could it be? i checked fuses there all good? battery is good tried two already and took the starter in and it passed? and the car turns but cranks over slow? everything was working good with my last motor i put in everything worked fine then i put in this motor and car turns over slow?? i know a good amount i am not a master yet but i know my dsm's :beatentodeath: hahah well any help would be great
1990 Eagle Talon TSi
 
Yeah Thats One Thing That Always Helps Cause Belive It Or Not The More Gronds The Better But If Engine Overheated Bad, engine Oil Is Two Heavey, Poor Battery To Starter Connections, Burned Solinoid Contacts,or Need A New Starter Because There Are Things When U Get It Checked They Dont Check It Could Be A Bad Ground In The Starter Many Things Soo If All The Things Above Are Good Then Its Most Likely The Starter Cause U Got A New Battery Also I Would Get Alt. Checked It Could Be Overloading And Pulling Way To Many Amps
 
Measure voltage on the starter positive stud itself while cranking. If less than 10V you have too high resistance in battery cables or connections. Also make sure large battery negative cable goes under starter mounting bolt (not to engine frame) as well as the car body.
 
Measure voltage on the starter positive stud itself while cranking. If less than 10V you have too high resistance in battery cables or connections. Also make sure large battery negative cable goes under starter mounting bolt (not to engine frame) as well as the car body.


I agree. To test the entire power feed circuit to the starter from the battery, put your red lead on your Battery Positive Terminal, and than put the black lead on the Motor Terminal of the Starter Solenoid. The bottom screw sticking out the side. This tests all componets in the circuit. You should have a reading somewhere around 0.2V to 0.6V, but check to make sure. If you find high resistance, go from one componet to the next until you find normal resistance. Other than that, you could look at mechanical resistance.


:talon:
 
iam about to test it. could it be the knock sensor i like an idiot cut it of the old motor and put it together but i searched knock sensor and there is also a ground? so i think it can be that also the Engine Coolent Temp is broken from the plug but last motor started up with out it on? i am going to connect the wires? there is two?? green and yellow? so i amgoing to put them on and see if all starts up? also the battery is only putting 12.52 volts out before i crank it ALSO WHEN I CONNECT THE BATTERY THERE IS NO SPARK OR ANYTHING LIKE SMALL SPARK WHEN YOU CONNECT THE GROUND OR POWER TO BATTERY LIKE THERE IS MOST THE TIME WHEN YOU CONNECT THE BATTERY? COULD THAT IT? AND ITS f*CUKING SHIT UP? DAMN I NEED TO GET THIS CAR TO RUN? I AM GOING TO ALSO REPLACE THE KNOCK SENSOR SINCE I READ ITS BAD TO RUN ENGINE WITH OUT IT BUT I JUST WANT TO START HER UP AND THEN I AM GOIGN TO FIX EVERYTHING? BUT I THINK I NEED TO DO THAT FIRST WELL THANKS FOR THE HELP I AM TESTING STARTER VOLTAGE I KEEP YOU UP TO DATE tHANKS AGAIN!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top