Crank Pulley Sheared Off & Other

[KayTeeGST]

So about a month ago my bf took my car to work, he said it drove great on the way there and ran smooth, when he stopped at a gas station he turned off car obviously, an when he went to start it up again it started heard a clunk noise, and then it die. He said he looked under the hood and the crank pulley came off there was 2 bolts holing it in and they sheared off before i could put other bolts in, what had happen was the alternator bracket formed its self in a oval hole some how and i think it kicked up and put to much pressure on the pulley which broke bolt heads off.
I only had this car 3 months, before i bought it i did a compression test and was 170 psi across, but after this happened i did another compression test to make sure its worth fixing it and 1 cylinder i got 160 psi and the other 3 were between 125-120 psi, i was able to get someone to sleeve the alternator bracket hole and poxy around were the sleeve and filled the hole made it nice an strong [ obviously not factory strong ]. I am gonna replace the crank sprocket like i said the bolt heads sheared off, thats the easiest option since i lost my job before this happened. Am on a budget.
So whats my actual question is should i do a head gasket ? or has anyone had a similar issue i mean it didnt internally damage anything or i would of gotten no compression i am not sure this is my first eclipse and dealing with an interference motor please help. Sorry about this being like an essay.

 

[Dsmkauai]

My 95 gst has the same issue with the bolt hole being egged out. They just do it over time and really sucks. I just drilled mine out for a larger bolt. if your over that location and arnt using your a/c, you can get the jay racing relocation kit.

 

[KayTeeGST]

Yeah what I did was I got it drilled out bigger and put a sleeve in it and proxy it in there .

 

[MichaelSuch]

You probably don't even have to replace the crank sprocket. I've broken bolts off in the sprocket from over torqueing the crank damper/pulley, once the head breaks off the bolt there is no force applied to the fastener anymore, so it should unthread by hand. If you use a dremel and cut a slit in it then use a flat bladed screw driver or use a drill and a left handed drill bit, it will come right out.

Before jumping to conclusions on pulling the head, you need to verify timing. If timing is lined up then it is highly unlikely valves would have contacted the pistons. Maybe the compression test was done incorrectly.

Was this last compression test done with the engine at operating temp or was it cold? Was the throttle open 100% when doing the test?

 

[KayTeeGST]

We tried getting the bollts out the sprockey and the drill bit broke inside the the bolt that was in the sprocket.. the bolt is fleshed with the sprocket, if that made since. But this is how we did the 2nd compression test I think it was call a dry test ?? Engine was not warmed up all sparkk plugs were out this time and we just cranked 10 seconds . So the "wet" test is the more accurate one?
And with doing the sleeve and proxy n the alternator bracket do you think that would be good until i can rebuild/replace motor ? It seems pretty sterdy .

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Put a nut surrounding the broken bolts and weld them to those studs. Cool well and then turn the nut to remove the broken ones. I have before on a head with a broken bolt flush in it. Had to cool the nut good before we tried to remove the bolt or it would twist off. I think we poured our refreshing beverages on it that we had out during the "operation" . Worth a try with a mig welder or just get a new sprocket.

 

[99OZDSM]

For a compression test, it should be done with the car warmed up, WOT, and with a fully charged battery. I crank her over for about 5 cycles. The tester should max out at some point if you have someone helping you. Also, after you do a dry test, you can put a drop of oil into your low compression cylinders and then re-test. If the number jumps up, then your rings/cylinder wall could be done. However, dropping oil will always increase this number b/c the oil will naturally seal the rings to the cylinder wall. To be completely sure, you would have to do a leak down test.

Also, have you checked your oil and coolant for a milky substance? That's a sure sign your headgasket could be done.

 

[KayTeeGST]

yeah i got a new sproocket already from import miller good fricken deal i love that place..

and the comopmression test when you say rings and cylinder walls will be done meaning it will eventually throw the rod ? okay ima be replacing sprocket tomorrow when i am done doing the sprocket, before driving it i should do a leak test an drop oil in cylinder to see what it does ? my oils was blackish brown i dont think i have a bad head gasket my brother said if my compression is low to just do it . but i need experenced in put ..

 

[99OZDSM]

Well if your first test was right then you are below the factory service limit for cylinder compression. I believe the limit is 133 psi. Check out this link.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/compression-and-leak-down-testing.338152/

 

[ThunderChild]

Replace the crank pulley, re-verify timing marks (set timing if needed), then re-do your compression test, put a few drops of oil down the plug holes.

If u can verify timing and get the car running, try to do a hot compression test as it will yield more accurate results.

If u have the equipment and know-how, you can do a leak down test to check if your hg is good or bad as well as check the condition of other areas, such as rings, valves etc.

Gl!

 

[KayTeeGST]

ill have certified mechanic helping he is letting me do some stuff i wanna learn and be able to do this on my own . cause i never dealt with the timing gears or anthing with that area but thanks so much you guys ill post again for an update i am excited...

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Change that oil. You don't want that icky stuff. When he was saying that the cylinder walls were "done" I think he was meaning they are glazed or the rings are just wore out which won't make it throw a rod, just make it smoke when it's running and not have as good of compression as it used to. The rods are tied to the crank (and pistons) but if the rod/main bearings are still good (do you still have good oil pressure?) then it shouldn't effect the rotating parts.

 

[KayTeeGST]

yeah i am gonna do that i have oil in the back seats i am using 5-30 is that a good oil viscosity it the walls are glazed ? but i have black smoke when i idle and going into 1st gear from a stop and like little clouds of white smoke comes out ocassionally but not alot its not a thick wight cloud . and yeah i still have good oil pressure.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

White is usually associated with WATER....Black usually a rich condition (to much fuel). That could be washing the cylinder walls with fuel and wearing out rings depending on how long it has been like that. The oil debate is all over on here, some using 20-50 some 5-30 depending on the conditions of there engines. Some like synthetic some like conventional. I am breaking in a new engine so I will start with conventional to seat the rings and probably run 5-30 after.

 

[ThunderChild]

If ur getting white smoke puffs I'd definitely do a leak down test to make sure ur hg isn't leaking.

And as 90tsiawdtalon said, black smoke is an overly rich condition. So check injectors, regulator, pump for proper operation and to verify if they're aftermarket (a 255 walbro on stock fuel system can over run the stock fpr, and oversized injectors can dump too much fuel per pulse on an otherwise stock system) also, your coolant temp sensor (s) and O2 sensor (s) will determine fuel trims as well. If they are old, questionable or fouled, then they need replaced.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Good oil pressure usually indicates that the bearings are still in good shape, not always but usually so you should have a good bottom end. I worry about the smoke as tametalon92 is speaking about.

 

[KayTeeGST]

i been using the 5-30 convent. the guy i bought the car from didnt know anything about the car he said he had it 2 months he didnt even put it in his name. but was over heating he thought was water pump but it was the thermostate yeah i know its running rich i can smell it . on that part i just got a MAF and 02 sensors but yeah i havent installed em cause i got em after my vehical wanted to brake off the pulley . so just check the fuel parts.. should i also check timing ? oh gosh yeah but white cloud puffs would just be head gasket. i would have to remove the timing belt to huh ??

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Those parts will probably fix the rich condition. I wonder, does it have a Check Engine Light (CEL) on? If so, just find out what it is pointing out as a problem and deal with it also. On your question about timing belt, yes when you do a valve job/headgasket then it is time to replace all timing components and belt or belts (there is a second timing belt that is for your balance shafts). I looked at your profile so don't take this wrong but ALWAYS go with OEM timing components, pulleys, tensioner etc. You can use the belt of your choice but the pulleys and stuff should be Mitsubishi for a flawless result. Don't skimp on them. Now you are going to have to retime the motor, but with the right tools for the job (you can buy a kit that has the necessary tools all in one), you can do it! Gotta love a gal that will work on her own car!!

 

[KayTeeGST]

yeah i always try to keep it oem for the most part but, but idk man the timing stuff is scary for me i never really messed with the timing anything . so the other timing belt is by the oil and crank sprocket or is that just the one belt i dont remember.. and its fine thats what my profile is there for . get to know people and learn more which this is a big help i need my car running tip top and since i just got a job at a parts compay idk if anyone heard of BuyAutoParts.com
but they got good selection and ill be the one helping people figure out what they need .. so that kit would be on ebay ? ima look right meow ..

 

[KayTeeGST]

oh and the check engine light was is on its for 02 sensors and MAF and something else i believe.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Look through our "vendors" at the bottom of this page. They carry OEM Mitsubishi timing components and can probably provide you with a kit that covers it all. They have been very good for my needs. STM, Extreme PSI and JNZ are all vendors that I have done business with. All are very knowledgeable about our cars also. Some have very reasonable shipping too. Shy away from ebay as there are a lot of aftermarket knockoff parts there. A few items are no brainers that will still be a good product but be careful on there, especially on a turbo purchase!

 

[BogusSVO]

If the puff of "white smoke" you see is just at start up, and long periods of idle.

Then it may not be white, it could be a light blue smoke, and that would lean you more towards valve stem seals.

It can be hard to tell the white (coolant) smoke from the blue (oil) smoke

Keep an eye on the coolant level, more so since you mentioned the PO said it was overheating.

 

[KayTeeGST]

So got the sprocket off and everything is TDC only thing holding me back I didn't notice when I received the alternator I ordered from Miller was wrong so I have to giggy rig the old one until I start working to get a brand new one luckily I just got a job at Meridian Auto Parts. I wanna do the slave and master cylinder ima be doing it by my self so any pointers ?! I mean I replaced a master once on a beamer but that's it . I heard it aint to difficult on my car just would like tips thank you !!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It can be done by a single person but its sure a lot easier with two or the proper bleeding tools which you may have access to. It's just like brakes so you need to pump the system up for pressure and bleed the air out at the slave cylinder until no air is left in the system.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

This came from the mitsubishiforum website, read through it. It will be helpful.

http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-63/clutch-pedal-master-cylinder-16012/