The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

crank pulley questions.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

91mits

10+ Year Contributor
161
3
Nov 29, 2010
Dallas, Texas
2 weeks ago i noticed a problem in my charging system, took off the alternator and got it tested, tested out fine, i had to recharge my battery 3 times now somehow the alternator is not charging it up.also car died twice and cranked up when i jumped it..this was on the way to the dyno so for now the dyno will wait until i figure out why its acting this way.i also took off the negative cable and the car shut off, from the looks of it the alternator is bad.just want different opinions..car is not a daily driver, but last week noticed the crank pulley oem one wobbled, was wondering if that could cause a different tension on the alternator and cause it to act up..i have a fluidampr on the way this week..just wondering. thanks.
 
alternator is bad, testing it at a auto shop/parts store sometimes doesnt load it enough to find out if its really bad or not. but that is a sure sign of a bad alternator
 
alternator is bad, testing it at a auto shop/parts store sometimes doesnt load it enough to find out if its really bad or not. but that is a sure sign of a bad alternator

my exact feelings...i figured its gone since the many times power steering fluid leaked out when i unbolt the hose...and leaking into the alternator...
 
Many times the stock crankshaft pulley will separate. All it is is two pieces glued together.

Do you have exhaust manifold shields? No heat shield will do more damage to an alternator than power steering fluid.
 
Many times the stock crankshaft pulley will separate. All it is is two pieces glued together.

Do you have exhaust manifold shields? No heat shield will do more damage to an alternator than power steering fluid.

yeah i don't have any heat shields...im using a fp manifold...but i got fluid in the alternator a lot of times...
 
I know a previous arguement and...personally, I would replace the oem pulley/dampner with an aftermarket one piece that will not ever separate again. I had this happen with my car and do not trust the oem pulley. contrary to some beliefs on here, it is better to get a proper dampened pulley that is a one piece design and be done with it.

You may hear all kinds of opinions on here and this is just mine. The oem one does a good job but is flawed and will not last. I would not ever put an oem one back on for this reason. Depending on a few factors, your alternator could be ok. If not, replace it too. The separated oem one is not turning as it should and may be part of the problem.
 
I know a previous arguement and...personally, I would replace the oem pulley/dampner with an aftermarket one piece that will not ever separate again. I had this happen with my car and do not trust the oem pulley. contrary to some beliefs on here, it is better to get a proper dampened pulley that is a one piece design and be done with it.

You may hear all kinds of opinions on here and this is just mine. The oem one does a good job but is flawed and will not last. I would not ever put an oem one back on for this reason. Depending on a few factors, your alternator could be ok. If not, replace it too. The separated oem one is not turning as it should and may be part of the problem.

thanks for the input, like i said , i have a fluidampr on the way by mail:sneaky: LOL..ill see if that solves the problem, if not, i think the alternator is gone as some people mention they don't test it out properly at the store
 
Have you checked the ALT fuse? It's the black 80 amp fuse bolted in the front corner of the passenger side fuse box. It runs in series from the alternator to the battery and if it blows it disconnects the alternator from the battery.
 
Have you checked the ALT fuse? It's the black 80 amp fuse bolted in the front corner of the passenger side fuse box. It runs in series from the alternator to the battery and if it blows it disconnects the alternator from the battery.

havent checked any fuses, don't have a test light...just figured since the car hesitated when i turned on loads and shut off twice while driving and cranked up right away after being jumped...might be the said alternator..:hmm:
 
havent checked any fuses, don't have a test light...just figured since the car hesitated when i turned on loads and shut off twice while driving and cranked up right away after being jumped...might be the said alternator..:hmm:

The symptoms that you are saying point to the alternator (and might very well be), are also the same symptoms you would see if the fuse was blown because it keeps the alternator from charging the battery. You don't have a way to test the fuse? So what. You have already thrown $400 at it ($300 for Fluidampr pulley and $100 for a rebuilt alternator), whats $4 for a new fuse you can pick up at any local auto parts store?
 
I would check that fuse. Also, while its running, check voltage between the alternator case (ground), and the alternator + terminal. It should be in the neighborhood of 14.0v if the its good.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top