Questions regarding crank pulley/engine trouble

[the_skin_eater]

My crank pulley apparently broke off before I bought the car. I knew it needed replaced. After looking around this site for awhile I realize there may be much more to it.

Its possible for valves to be bent and what not from this correct? What else could happen?
How do I tell if there are more issues that I cannot see? I could start the car up I think if I jump it, but what will I be looking for?

Also, to take the sprocket off is all I need is the special tool thingy listed on vfaq for the timing belt removal?

heres a pic of my sprocket. Need to take it off. Notice the broken bolts too.......I just need some more knowledge on this area. Thanks.

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[RotaryRyan]

If just the regular belt pulley broke off, which is what it appears to me, everything is probably ok.

So your choices to fix your problem are:

1 - Check your timing marks and make sure they are still lined up. If they are then drill and extract those four broken bolts (therefore not having to take off your timing belt and re-doing it), and put the crank pulley on.

2 - Take out the big center bolt in your sprocket and timing belt, take off your sprocket and replace it. Then re-do your timing belt and put a crank pulley on.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

My crank pulley apparently broke off before I bought the car. I knew it needed replaced. After looking around this site for awhile I realize there may be much more to it.

Its possible for valves to be bent and what not from this correct? What else could happen?
How do I tell if there are more issues that I cannot see? I could start the car up I think if I jump it, but what will I be looking for?

Also, to take the sprocket off is all I need is the special tool thingy listed on vfaq for the timing belt removal?

heres a pic of my sprocket. Need to take it off. Notice the broken bolts too.......I just need some more knowledge on this area. Thanks.

1. The valves could possibly be bent if the pulley went to pieces and slung the belts into the timing/balance belt area, but the odds are pretty high that this scenario WILL NOT happen. Plus looking at the picture, the belt appears to be in order.

Usually what happens when the crank pulley has taken a dump is that it will squeal when first started, probably have electrical issues due to the alternator belt not rotating as it should, maybe sling the belts (alternator or A/C usually). Replace the crank pulley and "all is golden".

2. If you're not sure about the engine....DO NOT START IT...remove all 4 plugs and rotate the engine CLOCKWISE by hand with a 1/2" drive socket + extension in the square drive shown in the picture (NEVER ROTATE THE ENGINE COUNTER-CLOCKWISE), if it starts to bind up you could possibly have valves and pistons touching and further investigation is warranted. Check the alignment marks to verify also.

If all is good to this point you might be able to extract the broken bolts without removing the sprocket, therefore you wouldn't have to do a TB job. However, the TB replacement interval is at 60K...and I can tell you if it goes you can be about a 95% sure that a head job will be in order, and not the good kind either.

3. To take the crank sprocket off you need to loosen the center bolt, be forewarned that it's a PITA to remove. The broken bolts can be removed with a "easy-out" or bolt extractor that can be found at most auto parts or hardware stores.

4. I've done a couple of TB jobs and never purchased the "special tool" as stated in the VFAQ, a long piece of all-thread or the battery hold down bolt can accomplish the same task.

 

[andymoraitis]

I've done a couple of TB jobs and never purchased the "special tool" as stated in the VFAQ, a long piece of all-thread or the battery hold down bolt can accomplish the same task.

Now that's a nice tidbit of info about the battery hold down.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Yea we used that method on a buddy's car and it worked fine. You only need the "tool" if you plan on re-using the old tensioner.

Although when I have done a TB job on my own car I replace the tensioner. I've never had a reason to remove the belt/tensioner other than for a TB job. And when you're throwing the old tensioner in the trash, who cares if the pin pops out.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

there are 2 tools on the vfaq, there's one for the tensioner that you use the battery hold down for, and there's another, wich I think skin eater may be talking about which bolts onto the crank sprocket and the ac tensioner so you can remove/install the sprocket without it moving on ya, http://www.vfaq.com/mods/cranktool.html even if you do the t-belt though you don't need to remove the crank sprocket.. only if you want to get at the front main seal behind it.

 

[thrdtryGSX]

If you are planning on ever removing the balance shafts this would be the perfect opportunity, while the motor is out. Here are some directions for the procedure if interested. http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/balanceshaft.html .

 

[FORMONTOYA]

there are 2 tools on the vfaq, there's one for the tensioner that you use the battery hold down for, and there's another, wich I think skin eater may be talking about which bolts onto the crank sprocket and the ac tensioner so you can remove/install the sprocket without it moving on ya, http://www.vfaq.com/mods/cranktool.html even if you do the t-belt though you don't need to remove the crank sprocket.. only if you want to get at the front main seal behind it.

Yea, on the crank sprocket, I use a pair of 460 Channel Locks and a 1/2" drive air gun. But yea, the crank sprocket is a PITA without something. And if you're going that deep, you SHOULD replace the seals.

 

[the_skin_eater]

ok, thanks. this helps much...

I will take the sprocket off just because I have a whole new pulley/sprocket, but then again I may look into seperating the two.

My motor is still in the car, and ###### wont do the balance shaft removal yet......

I will check for the valves as mentioned when I can...