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420A Crank no start

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ToddBonezW82

Probationary Member
7
1
Apr 9, 2023
Munford, Alabama
Bought the car from a lady cause I'm somewhat familiar wit the car.. 10mo ago I did diagnosis and told her it needed crankshaft position sensor and then I left for a while, came back to find out she had started seeing a guy and he told her he'd fix it.. Well after he pulled it to his house, another guy got it moved cause her and the other guy had falling out. He tried to jus big boy her outta the car and he said he'd fix it!!

Long story short, wires were stripped and what not.. Well now, I bought the car and been tryin figure out what they screwed up.. So they didn't put the crankshaft position sensor she bought on it so brings me to this!! I've done this so far..

1) bought a ecm/ecu "cause the cycle of key wasn't getting the light on dash.
2) new crankshaft an cam sensors.

I now have the light on cluster and fuel pump working on key cycle but got no spark.. it's like after the fuel pump cycles and I turn the key I lose power to everything!!

I bought the car cause my 06 Honda blew up and then I had a 77 Coupe DeVille fall on me and I lost my job few weeks ago an I really need get it goin so I can get back workin..

any idea or suggestions would be great!! Thanks in advance!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Check for spark fuel and compression.
Well when I installed all the parts I turned it over an realized I had no spark so I then check my connections an all and then as I put the power to the car the radiator fan acts like it starts and all relays click and pump primes up but soon as I go and turn the motor over I lose my power to the coil crank cam and injecters.. so I read about hooking a jumper from the red wire on the crankshaft wire harness and it hots the coil and injectors and now I got fuel coil and injectors but no power to the crank or cam and the fuel pump instead of priming up for 5 seconds it does it fast like 3 seconds
 
I understand you are looking for us to point you in the right direction to fix this, especially considering you need reliable wheels to get to work. Unfortunately the whole "wires were stripped and what not" piece makes that impossible. Did Captain Wirestrippers short wires, frying fuses and relays? Burned wires? Loose or bad grounds? Bad connections? Cross-wiring? Who can say without eyeballs on your ride. Without knowing the locations and extent of the damage we cannot possibly say where the problems are.

Jumping power to get something working really just tells you that the problem isn't with the components on either side of the jump. The only time it diagnoses the problem is when the bypassed circuit is simple and linear. It can be a helpful diagnostics step, but not if the bypassed circuits have been mangled by an ignorant gorilla.

Best thing you can do is download the field service manuals that apply and go through the ass pain of repairing the damage wire by wire, component by component. Also, make sure all of your grounds are good. Once that is done you can begin to confidently address any bad components. Slow and painful, yes, but the only way to ensure the car gets fixed instead of just getting lucky with a band-aid, leaving you open to more problems and frustration later. Unfortunately no simple fix in this.

Field service manuals are found under: RESOURCES --> THE DSM MAINTENANCE GUIDE.

 
I understand you are looking for us to point you in the right direction to fix this, especially considering you need reliable wheels to get to work. Unfortunately the whole "wires were stripped and what not" piece makes that impossible. Did Captain Wirestrippers short wires, frying fuses and relays? Burned wires? Loose or bad grounds? Bad connections? Cross-wiring? Who can say without eyeballs on your ride. Without knowing the locations and extent of the damage we cannot possibly say where the problems are.

Jumping power to get something working really just tells you that the problem isn't with the components on either side of the jump. The only time it diagnoses the problem is when the bypassed circuit is simple and linear. It can be a helpful diagnostics step, but not if the bypassed circuits have been mangled by an ignorant gorilla.

Best thing you can do is download the field service manuals that apply and go through the ass pain of repairing the damage wire by wire, component by component. Also, make sure all of your grounds are good. Once that is done you can begin to confidently address any bad components. Slow and painful, yes, but the only way to ensure the car gets fixed instead of just getting lucky with a band-aid, leaving you open to more problems and frustration later. Unfortunately no simple fix in this.

Field service manuals are found under: RESOURCES --> THE DSM MAINTENANCE GUIDE.

Thanks!! I appreciate any advise.. I heatshrinked the wires he stripped which was couple under the 2 relays on firewall then 2 of 3 wires to coil and the fuelpump wires and the lighter wires.. I did this to try prevent messing the new ECU up... but I'll take a look at that link and might get out there an work on it shortly!!
 
Well maybe I found a problem not real sure yet but the relay behind radio/glovebox area [MFI] "I think" 2pin is missing and right behind glovebox but closer to passenger side of car I found a open/empty connector that's really clean to jus be hanging there!! I'm goin to do some studying here in bout hr after I shower and we'll see!!

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Good find. Just be wary of chasing ghosts. Manufacturers create things en masse to keep costs down, meaning many times the wiring harness is the same across multiple models. So it is possible what seems like an empty or incomplete connector isn't a problem, just an uninstalled option or upgrade on your specific vehicle. Heated mirrors are an example of this - the wiring is there in the harness, just the switch, relays, and heated mirrors are missing on lower-end model that don't come with heated mirrors.

It also means a commonly used 8-pin connector will be used to join 7 wires if that saves the cost of having to manufacture a separate 7-pin connector set.
 
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