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could this be blown headgasket

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ChiTownHussla

10+ Year Contributor
1,268
6
Nov 16, 2010
Chicago, Illinois
Hi guys, I have a problem with holding coolant. After 3 or 4 days I will have to put more coolant in. When I did a compression test, it was about 90 -85 psi for the compression test. My Local DSM Wiseman, says it may be my rings or my headgasket. I would like to know what the possibilities are and what to fix. Thanks for the help. I will check this post every day, multiple times a day. thanks again
 
That's low compression across the board. I'd defiantly be looking into making time for a teardown on the engine. Is it smoking at all? Does the exhaust smell sweet? (indicative of coolant) How does the oil look?

Any overheating issues at all?

Something is defiantly amiss, though. Might just be a worn out engine... how many miles does it have on it?
 
Ok, lets take this one by one. Yes my car needs a rebuild. I knew/know this but I just paid 450 to do my Timing joband water pump job with pulleys and tensioner. My local dsm guy said a leakdown test would help identify it, but he didnt have the tool to do it he said. Lastly, I am definitely losing coolant because I just put some in about 3 days ago and had to put more in this morning. I just want to know if I can do the headgasket only at this time because money is real tight.

Or if 95 talongirl or 95talonowner would be down to do it for beer or I buy dinner I would totally drive it to whereever you guys are located. You know how young DSMers are, and plus I picked up the car for 500 so I knew it wasnt gonna be perfect.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I can afford to buy the HG and maybe new pistons/rings if I can get both for under 200. The work to put it in though would be my killing factor. Any input and help is appreciated. Thanks
 
Have you done a compression test on it. Leakdown would be better. Is the car smoking? If it is burning coolant it should smell sweet and smoke white. No point in just changing the headgasket until your sure that is the problem.
 
Just to make sure, you did do the compression test with the car off and the valves closed?

Are you leaking coolant anywhere at all?

I didn't see an answer to if your car is smoking or not. Here is some good info on the leak down test.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

But if you are not leaking coolant anywhere and you are not mixing water and oil, then yes you most likely have either a badly warped head, blown head gasket, or possibly a bad crack in a coolant passage.
 
I did but I ask that just b/c i have ran into many people that try to do a compression test while it is running. That way if the did it right then great and if not they can go back and do it properly.
 
regardless, simply just look at/smell your ehaust. if its shooting some excessive white smoke, then its burning coolant.
if its blue smoke, then your burning oil.
there is ALSO the possibility of your coolant seeping in with the oil, make sure you check that too.
if your not burning coolant and its not mixing with oil then start looking elsewear for the coolant leak.
 
The main point here is, with compression numbers that low and regardless of other things it's time to pull the engine and get it rebuilt. Other problems won't matter if this isn't done first.
 
The main point here is, with compression numbers that low and regardless of other things it's time to pull the engine and get it rebuilt. Other problems won't matter if this isn't done first.

true, but not necessarily completely true, his valve seals could be worn or burned. therefore only causing him to have to rebuild the head. not likely but im just throwing that out there, besides the best thing to do is find out exactly what it is thats wrong with it first before just going and tearing it apart. specially if its a DD.

EDIT: you can go ahead and tear it apart and rebuilt the engine (as quick as you can if its your DD) or, if it were me i would try to find out what was wrong first to make sure i knew what it was because its simple to find out, then if need be tear it apart... once again thats IMO - to each his own.
 
O.Ok Guy's. I am looking to put new pistons and hg. Hopefully this will fix it. What I needed to rebuild head

You'll have to take it to a machine shop and have them pressure test it and check to see if it needs any machining.

of course they wouldn't have anything to do with loss of coolant, but if you somehow have a bad valve seal you can lose compression, or burned valve, or even the valve not seating correctly.
ive had this happen before on a 420a engine.

I've been interpreting you saying valve seal as in valve stem seal which could in no way effect compression. Maybe that's where our confusion lies. Either way, head needs to come off at a minimum and be checked by a machine shop in the OP case.
 
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Have you checked your oil? Is it milky? If so that's a blown headgasket. Also do you see any leaks by your radiator? Are the hoses in good shape?
 
too think the oil is a good indicator of blown head gasket and the way these motors are designed when that timing belt was put on it might have been a good idea to consider a head gasket especially if it's a high mileage motor.
 
I wouldn't just shoot in the dark by replacing aforementioned parts. don't go in blind it will end up costing more in the long run.
 
O.Ok Guy's. I am looking to put new pistons and hg. Hopefully this will fix it. What I needed to rebuild head

You probably need to have the block bored and run an oversized piston to fully fix the problem (a full rebuild).

If money is really tight, pull the head and the oil pan, carefully remove the pistons and rings, and check the ring gaps.

If the rings are toast, re-ring the motor (a new set of rings) and as long as the pistons aren't scored/damaged, reuse them.

Throw a new composite HG in there while you're at it, and that should hold you over for awhile until you have the funds to do a full rebuild.
 
Check all your plugs if your leaking coolant into a cylinder usually the electrode looks a lot cleaner than the others. Also if your leaking coolant into a cylinder then you can almost bet your bottom dollar your compression is going into your cooling system. open your coolant reservoir and smell for exhaust fumes and look for bubbles in the coolant if you can see.
 
I wouldn't mind stopping by Chicago once I get my car on the road in a couple days.

A few things. If your oil is OK, and your losing coolant, I know it sounds dumb but have you checked for leaks? Remember - you have a heater core. Check all the lines that are associated with coolant and look for even the slightest leaks. If all that checks out then you are probably burning it (head gasket). When the car is running, how does your exhaust look? Color/smell can give a lot of info away. Yes - go sniff your exhaust, don't huff it but make sure people think your crazy - it's a DSM after all.

Did you do the compression test with the engine hot? If not - re do it. Get a correctly done leak down test. If your rings are OK, a head gasket is much cheaper than a rebuild. $200 isn't going to service your bottom end like you would think. This build this year for me was almost 200$ in misc bolts and gaskets! You can get a Fel-Pro HG from Autozone/Advanced etc for around $30 ~ 35, REPLACE YOUR HEAD BOLTS. That's another 30 or so unless you go ARP (always a good idea). Timing will need to be re-done.

There is always a lot to cover when you get a used car, come to La Porte sometime and I'd be more than glad to take a look.
 
If your compression is 85-90 evenly across the board, I'd look to see if timing didn't jump a tooth or 3. Does the car run/idle perfect or does it sound like it's running on 3 cylinders?

And whoever the hell suggested doing a compression test with the valves closed, please explain to me how to do that one!!
 
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