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Cooling System -Deionized Water

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architechnik

15+ Year Contributor
690
10
Jun 21, 2007
Glad, Oregon
After trying various methods to cool the under-hood temps, I've created a decent plan. I am adjusting the way air flows by cutting into the hood with screened vents and rigging up a VERY low profile scoop (I hate the way most look) and switching to an all water cooling system.

The aluminum radiator is on its way, but for now I am running distilled water and a basic 7%-3% "wetter" additive. I hope to cover all basis with the non-glycol system, but I keep asking myself, "Where do I get deionized water?!"

Any suggestions? Do I go down and buy a filtration system or maybe the pool store has chemicals that would work?
The only other solution I can think of is using a copper plate and grounded battery before prior to dumping in my car.

(Does CLR do the same thing as turning the water more basic? Acid bad, Basic better for metals correct?)
 
Run 30% Prestone. You want it for water pump lubrication, seal maintenance, and to combat electrolytic erosion. You do not want de-ionized water for coolant.
You will not see cool under-hood temperatures on a turbo car. DSMs don't have overheating issues. Replace your radiator cap, thermostat, and if still overheating, suspect the water pump's impeller.
 
I replaced the cap today with a 16lb over the 13. I have upgraded the hoses and the water pump is only 3 months old.
The trouble is the under hood temps are stifling the intake and reaching 110 deg!

My little first gen is really feeling these hot summer afternoons and with a 50/50 was spraying coolant out the reservoir at an alarming rate.

I'll switch back with a 70/30, but I've heard water with a little additive helps drop the temps more than using a full mix.
 
If you want to lower underhood temps (as opposed to coolant temps) wrap your exhaust manifold and turbine housing. I have wrapped my manifold and there was a noticeable drop in underhood temps. I have also made a partition to isolate the air filter from the rest of the engine compartment. I'll try to get a pic for you.

Using more water in your coolant mix will increase it's ability to remove heat from the engine. But I would speculate that this could possibly raise underhood temps. It seems that more heat would be removed from the motor and then radiated to into the engine compartment. I don't know this for a fact but it seems possible. If anyone knows for sure that I am wrong let me know.:)
 
My 1G takes about two gallons... so if you know someone who already has a filtration system - such as someone with a really nice well pump system - then it's free. I don't know anyone like that off hand.

The Theory:
Really you're just trying to make soft water, where chemicals called buffers convert the cat-ions and an-ions into a nice balance with a ph of about 7.2 - 8.3 (The higher the ph the more basic it is, with 7 at "neutral")

Metal is corroded by acids and bases tend to cause gummy buildup under excessive wear. Water has a natural property of converting itself between cat-ions (positive) and an-ions (negitive) in equal balance, but you don't want as many anions because they'll react with metal.

Oh, and fancy hotels and sky-rises use these same buffers and filtration systems to ensure the pumps, pipes, and plumbing aren't fouled up by tap water!
 
I am no expert in this subject or in english , but since i have a saltwaterakvarium i can tell you that anyone with or any petshop who deals with salytwater can give you the ionized water.( I make it myself at home )

/A
 
I didn't think about that! I'll check out the aquarium place in town here.
We want deionized, not ionized, but I think that's what you are talking about. Sea water tends to have a slightly basic ph (around 8) because of the calcium compounds dissolved.

Thanks for the suggestion Donk! Now to find something to lubricate the pump adequately that dissolves well in water and will live up to the heat requirements.

I guess this is turning into more of a personal quest for the best cooling solutions for a home garage engineer.

Haha, get it, Solutions!!!
 
You guys only need DISTILLED WATER, not Deionized Water.
The process of distilling water is simply boiling the water, trapping the water vapor and allowing it to condense and form water droplets, catch said droplets in a reservoir of some sort and put in your radiator...
I just go to the grocery store and buy a 2 gallons.
 
Distilled water is only effective if it is used within about a week of distillation. If you have taken a chemistry class at a respectable institution, you'll know they distill their own water, as the particles from plastic containers become dissolved in the water.
Glass containers work better, and metal is much worse.

Likewise, the bipolar properties of pure water molecules results in a lot of ion exchange and can still corrode metals more than with added buffer chemicals.

Oh, and any carbon dioxide that comes in contact with distilled water becomes carbonic acid!
 
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