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Coolant hose broke.

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99 gst spyder

15+ Year Contributor
522
1
Jul 12, 2007
st. paul, Minnesota
So on my way home after work and everything was all good, then I stop at a gas station for gas then drove off. I notice the stock coolant gauge just starting to go up slightly then by then it hitted the top mark. So I pulled over and found that my water hose going to the throttle body blew off. So then I had to limp home about a mile or two. Will this hurt anything? Anything I need to be concern of? Of course I know I'm out of coolant.

This was the second time this has happend but it was a different hose and was only around the block so the first time was okay.

I'm planning on getting new top and bottom hose that goes to the radiator and replace any loose or rotten hose and new coolant and water wetter.

Is my coolant system too hot that's why it happend? Fan does turn on around 210 degrees.

Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks.
 
It's ok things like that happen all the time. I would first replace the hoses and refill the coolant drive it around and you should be ok. Let us know if anything else weird happens after that, but I think you will be fine. Shoot it happend to me before still runs fine. Does your fan only turn on at 210? Or does it turn on before that too?
 
It's ok things like that happen all the time. I would first replace the hoses and refill the coolant drive it around and you should be ok. Let us know if anything else weird happens after that, but I think you will be fine. Shoot it happend to me before still runs fine. Does your fan only turn on at 210? Or does it turn on before that too?

Thanks . Well, I've been checking the last couple times when I was logging through ecmlink, fan seems to turn one around 210 when I stopped at McDonald's to check it, they were and again when I got home. Not sure while in driving and doesn't seems to overheat while driving too.

Ecmlink coolant cel light set at 210.

But doesn't seem right for any coolant hose to just burst off like that. Has happend twice already.
 
210 is pretty hot. I would flush out your coolant system. What degree thermostat are you using, I would try a 170. Try make sure radiator gets good air flow, I know fmic and a/c condenser block alot air flow to your radiator.
 
210 is pretty hot. I would flush out your coolant system. What degree thermostat are you using, I would try a 170. Try make sure radiator gets good air flow, I know fmic and a/c condenser block alot air flow to your radiator.

I just bought one from orielly not too long ago but I didn't even bother asking which one I got. Stupid me. I'll try a new stat, cap, and flush the system like said.
 
Run a leak down test.

Is the hose slipping off? or is the clamp not clamping properly?
 
Make sure your radiator cap holds pressure too that can cause problems with overheating if it isn'tholding psi. The hose blowing off prob just old and soft these cars are getting old !
When I checked hoses after I got mine . They were all soft and bulging . Pulled the engine to rebuild just replaced all radiator hoses etc . Beats blowing a hose at the worst possible time
 
210 is pretty hot. I would flush out your coolant system. What degree thermostat are you using, I would try a 170. Try make sure radiator gets good air flow, I know fmic and a/c condenser block alot air flow to your radiator.

Actually 210 is normal for a idleing DSM. My fans kick on around 210 according to link. Now if his cruising temps are that high then that might be cause for concern. A lower temp thermostat does nothing to help combat coolant temps. It just delays the problem if there is one.

OP, a stock 180* thermostat and a 1.1bar rad cap (or a .9bar) is all you need if your coolant system is up to par and not all sludged up. Just replace the hose you blew, refill the coolant, burp the system of bubbles and take it for a drive to see if any damage was done while the car was hot.
 
Never seen a log with 210 temp xD max I have ever seen is 203, unless the car is over heating i seen temps 225 LOL. Still 210 seems to hot for my taste that's why I recommend 170 thermostat I noticed lower temps when dynoing over the 180 thermostat.
 
My coolant temps at idle seem to climb pretty high to like 220 before fans kick on. Had to adjust the coolant temp settings a bit. But for the OP, you can just eliminate coolant going to your throttle body with a block off plate and looping the lines. Just throwing that out there.
 
Coolant block off at the throttle body won't do much, it will take away from cooling the throttle body when freezing temps are about. Water boils at 212 degrees F, idk how your guys motors are so hot running 210-220 that's way to hot. I would never let mine get that hot.
 
Coolant block off at the throttle body won't do much, it will take away from cooling the throttle body when freezing temps are about. Water boils at 212 degrees F, idk how your guys motors are so hot running 210-220 that's way to hot. I would never let mine get that hot.

Like i said, ~210* is normal for a DSM sitting at idle. The fan (i only have one stock fan) comes on and temp goes back down. While cruising i see ~180.. You do know that the rad cap increases the boiling point of the coolant right? :)
 
Like i said, ~210* is normal for a DSM sitting at idle. The fan (i only have one stock fan) comes on and temp goes back down. While cruising i see ~180.. You do know that the rad cap increases the boiling point of the coolant right? :)

Ya I been going through some threads seems 210 at idle for some people and looks like 206 1 degree timing is pulled. So your right I just never had temps that high I won't allow it. :p
 
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