2G Cold air intake project

[mccurdy]

Hi guys,

I saw searching for some air filter cleaning methods on here and came across the (forgotten) DIY cold air intake. I'm pretty good with fabrication, so i thought id do it myself!

I'll have some pics up shortly, but so far its going well. I just had a few questions for those of you that might have already done it.

1.) I'm using the front bumper method for the intake hose (to the left of your fog lights). If i were to use the high beams method, how the hell do you cut into your housing and still keep the system sealed so you don't ruin your headlights?

2.) I'm planning on using a drummel tool at 20k RMP and a carbine disk to cut through the sheetmetal in the engine bay. Any other suggestions?

3.) I opted for some galvonized sheetmetal at home depot to create my 'casing' around my intake to keep out the hot engine air. Will this sheetmetal heat up or stay cool? I hear that using plastic sometimes is better for this. And if sheetmetal works, should I double up the layer or will a thin 1 layer be sufficient?

Thats it. Pics to come soon with a step by step guide.


Materials used:
Kragen 3'' Ram Air intake flex pipe kit - $14.99 (28 inches in length up to 36)
JB Weld glue - $4.19
1 sheet of galvanized sheet metal from HD - $7.99
Drummel tool set w/carbine cutting disks (diamon works great too!) - $37.99 for whole kit
1 3'' to 4'' rubber coupling from HD - $3.99

So far this is about half the cost of the only other method ive seen posted on this site (if you exclude the drummel set!). I plan on avoiding screws in my sheetmetal and using JBWeld to keep the metal casing in place. The 3 to 4'' coupling is what you attach the flex pipe to, and stick that in the opening on your bumper (just left of your fog light).

I'll give a more detailed guide tomorrow with pictures!

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

Subscribed! Cant wait to get an update, as I hopefully will be doing this as well.

 

[turboglenn]

Cool, can't wait to see the pics! I don't know how well i would trust JB weld to hold it in place over an extended period of time though.

Man, i wish i knew what model it was from, but my CAI was made from a ghetto parts store intake for a honda. It wasn't the cheapest thing ( i think they run about 35 bucks or so) but i cut about 8-10 inches off of it and it made the perfect path from the turbo to the stock SMIC location. It's 3'' and i think it's fine, i don't really see a need for 4'' or bigger

 

[T9S1i]

I made a CAI and it was REALLY easy. What i did was take a 4.5" filter adapter from my 2g maf, bought an aluminum 4.5" 90* bend. Cut the legs to length. Opened up my hole to the smic location a bunch and put the 90* from the maf/filter adapter, to the filter in the SMIC location. IT seemed a lot easier to do that then to build an air box in the engine compartment.

Ive driven the car in rain and had no problems. If i really needed to i could take the 90* off in like 2 minutes and have the filter in the engine bay, but ive seen no need for it as of now.

This setup dropped my intake temps about 40*, and it stays the same if not gets colder during a hard pull!

Good luck with the install! Post plenty of pics! I'm on the wrong comp right now but i'll post some pics of my setup when i get on my other comp.

 

[mccurdy]

Just a test guys.

Here are some preliminary pics from the install. I'm just trying to see if the photobucket album is working. I'll have the full album up later today. Click on the picture and it should take you to my photo album.

Sorry for the quality, these were taking with my phone.


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[T9S1i]

pics work for me!

 

[mccurdy]

I turned it into a slide show. Should be working. I'll replace it with the full album and guide once i finish it.

I sliced my thumb open with my screw driver, pretty deep too, making the rest of the install harder than it needed to be.

This is just my first attempt. I think I might even re-do it a second time with piping like my I/C piping.

Anyone have any recommendations on bypass valves? I was thinking of getting a brick of foam the close off the tube if i need it to, and have another opening somewhere if needed.

 

[mccurdy]

Update:

I have attached the slideshow above of the initial install of the CAI install. Phase 2 will be installing the box around my intake.
Below is the installation process to do the job yourself, quick, and easy.

Materials needed:
Flexible 3'' tube at least 20'' in length (Got mine from Kragen for $19.99)
1 galvanized sheet metal (2x2 should do it)
JB Weld OR sheetmetal self tapping screws
3'' to 4'' rubber coupling.
2x2 piece of cardboard

Tools used:
Screw drivers
Knife
10mm wratched
drummel tool kit with carbine cutting disks and sanding disks
sharpie and duct tape


Step 1: Pop your hood. Take the piece of card board and bend it into 3 (The shape you want your airbox to be around your air filter.) Look at your filter and see where you'll need to make the bends at.

Step 2: Once you know where to bend the cardboard, stand the cardboard up against your airfilter/MAF to see how tall/short the cardboard model needs to be. (The side closest to the headlights must be shorter in height than the side next to the fuse box. Obviously due to the shape of our hoods!)

Step 3: Measure all the places you'll need to cut out of the model to allow it to fit around/ontop of the filter and stuff on your firewall floor. (I had to relocate my greddy profec b).
Once you have the shape, cut the cardboard model to fit, and make any adjustments you need so it fits snug and secure around your filter/maf. (See slideshow)

Step 4: Take the cardboard model once its all cut right and place it ontop the sheetmetal. Use a sharpie and trace the design onto it. Once you have the shape traced, use either scissors or the drummel tool to cut it out. After your done, sand the edges so they are smooth.

Step 5: Mark where you will need to bend the sheetmetal. I just cross referenced the cardboard model and made a mark on the metal version. Place something heavy and thick (I used a brick) ontop of the sheet metal, and bent up the sides accordingly. Make sure its straight and u don't over bend it!
IMPORTANT: Youll need to make your sheetmetal version a little taller than your cardboard model to account for a base. I added an extra 3/4'' to the bottom, then i bended this area at a 90degree angle to act as a base to secure the airbox to the engine bay metal.

Step 6: Now the sheetmetal model is complete. You can add any cosmetic touches you want. I just left mine the galvanized way it came, but u can try spraypainting it if you want. Set the airbox aside.

Step 7: Remove your air filter, MAF, intake, and coolant overflow tank. These just unbolt so use the 10mm wratchet to take these off. keep the airfilter attached to the MAF to prevent stuff from getting lodged in the honey combs.

Step 8: Now we need to decide where to make your 3'' hole to attach the flex tube to. Since i have my Upper I/C pipe close by, I moved my hole nearly directly underneath my airfilter cone. I traced the exact size of the 3'' tube onto a piece of blank paper, then cut it out. Then i placed the paper circle where i decided to drill (see slideshow) and traced it with a sharpie. Remember, measure twice, cut once.

Step 9: Get in there with the drummel tool and start cutting. This was the hardest part. If you can, find the drill style cutter instead of the carbonite disks. The disks make it hard to cut in the confined space, but it IS possible.

Step 10: Once the hole is done, use your sanding disks to clean up the hole so it doesn't tear holes in your flex pipe.

Step 11: Now take the flex pipe out of its packaging and connect it to the 3'' to 4'' coupling (at the 3'' side) Tighten the bracket so its nice and tight. Pull the flex pipe thru the coupling enough to where you have a little slack in case air tries to expand the pipe and push it outta place when you drive. My flex pipe kit from kragen is accordian like so i can expand it and push it together. I Just pushed the excess pipe together.

Step 12: Push the other end of the pipe that isn't connected to the coupling through the hole in your bumper next to your left fog light. Grab it as you push it through and pull the pipe until the coupling fits snug and tight into the opening. If you got the right kinda coupling, it will fit the shape of your bumpers opening (see slideshow). I got my coupling from home depot's plumbing dept. Its pliable and strong.

Step 13: Pull the other end of the flex pipe up through the hole you just cut. If you want, you can use a 2nd 3'' to 4'' coupling and set the 3'' side of the coupling in your fresh cut hole. This will make it sit better, but u might not have enough room (i didn't). If you do this, just connect the flex pipe to the 3'' side of the coupling. I however just pulled the flex tube up through the hole. I pulled through all excess pipe length, then pushed it back together (like an accordian).

Step 14: Now is the time to use the JB Weld where you may need it. I measured pretty good, so my flex pipe fit snug in the hole. If yours doesn't, use some jb weld to help secure it. Do the same for the bumper entrance.

Step 15: Re assemble everything you took apart earlier. Once back to normal, take the airbox you cut out, and place it exactly where you want it. Mine is 3 sided. One fits around the filter and 2 sides along the headlight assembly and fuse box. Trace with a sharpie where your folded base will sit on your engine bay.

Step 16: Use either JB weld (make sure your engine bay metal is clean!) or sheetmetal screws and secure the airbox, and your done!



It may seem like a lot of steps, but it goes pretty fast. The important thing is to take your time so you don't go through the process again due to mistakes. PM me with any questions.
The whole setup cost next to nothing. I spent about $30 without the drummel set, or about $65 with the drummel set.

Slideshow: This was done pretty much in the order i described above.
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[turboglenn]

Looks really good, especially for not requiring an abundance of tools to create! Graet job and great write up! Good job!

 

[kmoore]

I may have missed it in what you wrote but what kind of improvements (number wise) did you see from this? I'm sure intake temp was dropped, lbs/min increase, etc. but any solid numbers? Just curious

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Dropping +20*F (I also logged similar temperature drops) is more than worth it

 

[mccurdy]

No figures yet guys. I don't have a data logger so i guess its hard to determine the gains.

So far the airbox has stayed fairly cool.
I might create a 2nd layer for the box though to prevent any 'oven' effects from occuring during longer drives. I figure the outter most layer will soak up most the heat and the inner layer will keep the intake area protected from it.

I'm pretty busy at work but I'm going to try and fabricate something next weekend to see if its applicable. I might hit up a muffler shop with a mandrel bender too, to see if i can't make a J pipe to replace the according flex pipe. The only problem with the flex pipe is the acordian design isn't aerodynamic, which could hurt performance.




Oh, and the car feels like it pulls harder, faster. Not sure if its b/c of the colder air, or more being sucked in at a faster rate? Blcknspoolin, what did you use to measure your temp drops?

 

[wishihadatalon]

I just did some work like this on a buddies 2g. I just blocked off engine bay heat with a piece of smoked acrylic that I had laying around, built a nice pipe, and wrapped it with reflective tape. Without piping from the front of the car to the air filter, I logged a 30*F drop at the throttle body elbow. Not sure on a power gain or not, but I can only imagine that it helped. After I get a few more projects out of my garage, we are going to try to make a fiberglass duct for the front of the car and run 3" dryer ducting up through the stock smic pipe hole. All work so far has been done without cutting anything on the car and I would like to keep it that way.

 

[deflator]

Very nice! Kindof a non ghetto version of what I did.

My super cheap semi-temporary method was 4" dryer ducting ($6 at HD) connected to a 5" to 4" reducer ($5). Use screws to mate the reducer and ducting up to the stock "kidney" bean plastic duct that was connected to the stock sidemount IC, then connect that to the bumper and put it in the sidemount location.

Fab up a box from sheetmetal ($5) paint it and put rubber stripping on the edges ($3) and I have 10-15* above ambient max with no change to my intake setup. Total cost with spraypaint and screws was less than $40

 

[mccurdy]

I'm curious if painting the sheetmetal will affect the temperature in which it can withstand before heating up. Perhaps someone else might know? (Kinda like how black paint absorbs heat/light and white paint reflects it)

What method did you use to fab your box? I went off a rough cardboard model. I'm thinking of doing the chopstick method to get more precise measurments. Does your close snug with the hood?

I guess I don't need the sidemount duct with my setup, and since i bought my car with a FMIC already on it, I've never seen this before. Thats pretty cool. How does your 4'' Dryer duct reach your intake though? I had a hole already that my Upper I/C pipe runs through, so I had to custom cut my engine bay sheetmetal to make a new hole directly underneath my air filter. Did you do this too or do you have custom route piping for your FMIC??

 

[deflator]

My FMIC is short route actually, so the hole for the stock piping was completely unoccupied. I cut it larger with a dremel, then made cuts in the ducting at the top so it had strips in it, then bent those strips after the ducting went through the hole so the strips went outward, making it larger than the hole. A few sheet metal screws and the ducting is secured to the car.

For the box, I used corrugated cardboard to mock it up with kabob sticks to get the contours. I mostly followed a write-up by wret on here, just went even cheaper

And the black paint is entirely for show, just a little dress up and to hide the fact its dryer ducting. The ram air ducting is nearly invisible in the side kidney bean hole in the bumper

wret's write-ups
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/195667-diy-ram-air-duct-cold-air-intake.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/194759-diy-cold-air-intake.html

 

[mccurdy]

yeah i saw his write up. Good stuff for sure. Your totally lucky you have the short route piping. I'd have to change my intercooler to get that >_< (stupid greddy).

Wret and others used more materials than I wanted, as well as a lot of self fabrication. I didn't have access to the stock SMIC air duct, nor knew it existed, so I just used the HD 3'' to 4'' coupling, and other easier/cheaper materials. haha. Kinda ghetto, but hard to notice and works pretty well!

I might redo the airbox tonight for an even tighter seal with the chopstick method.
Where did you get your rubber stripping from?

 

[deflator]

I might redo the airbox tonight for an even tighter seal with the chopstick method.
Where did you get your rubber stripping from?

Home Depot Racing of course, its rubber garden hose that I cut down the side with a razor, then put the lip of the box into the cut and secure it with more screws. Looks pretty decent and the hose cost like $2.50

 

[mccurdy]

Interesting method!

 

[phunny]

I was looking at that flex tubing today for my ram air but I'm afraid that since it's not smooth it will really hurt the ram air, performance wise. Anyone here wanna chime in?

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

Very nice! Kindof a non ghetto version of what I did.

My super cheap semi-temporary method was 4" dryer ducting ($6 at HD) connected to a 5" to 4" reducer ($5). Use screws to mate the reducer and ducting up to the stock "kidney" bean plastic duct that was connected to the stock sidemount IC, then connect that to the bumper and put it in the sidemount location.

Fab up a box from sheetmetal ($5) paint it and put rubber stripping on the edges ($3) and I have 10-15* above ambient max with no change to my intake setup. Total cost with spraypaint and screws was less than $40

Thats EXACTLY what I was gonna do....use that plasic piece for the stock smic. Can you show some more pics?

 

[deflator]

I jammed a 5" to 4" dryer ducting reducer from home depot into the plastic piece. Mated that with the 4" ducting with a worm gear clamp and drilled holes and screwed the 5" end into the plastic piece. Dryer ducting is great because its so flexible, you can't really go wrong. I spray painted it black after I took this pic

 

[mccurdy]

Curious where the hell to find the stock SMIC duct.

I have some dryer duct in my garage, but its no where near as flexible as you claim, so i didn't even think to use it. Hrmm. Even the stuff i saw at home depot wasn't flexible, and it was just as rigid as my flex piping. Perhaps I didn't look hard enough.

What i did kind of like about the flex pipe i got from kragen, is it comes with an adapter that fits some intake filters directly (you connect it to the top most part of the filter). I might give it a try and see if it helps the airflow at all.

Good write up though deflator.

Oh and Phunny, I thought about this too. But I figure that anything that increases the airflow is better than nothing!
Perhaps dryer ducting, if you can find it flexible enough, is better though?

 

[ApexVIII]

i just thought about makeing this same set up the other day, did a little searching and it seems like they actually do some good!

nice job !

 

[wret]

Here's one I did in stainless steel.