2G Cold air intake project

[deflator]

Here's one I did in stainless steel.

sure makes mine look like a piece. I'm going to make it a true cold air intake once I get the 4" MAS adapter I ordered. Jam the ducting onto the end of a cone filter and put it in the sidemount location, use some kind of 4" arm from that through the hole in the body to the MAS, and bam! Ram air and cold air intake all in one

Oh and maybe I'm wrong to call it dryer ducting. Its just some kind of thin aluminum ducting I found at home depot

 

[mccurdy]

def - Do you mean put the cone filter attached to the 4'' flex pipe near the bumper ( Like Filter first, then flex pipe all the way up to the MAS? - Interesting. The kit i bought for my pipe had a similar design on the back, but the pipe just connected to the cone which connected to the MAS. Curious what benefit there would be from putting the filter at the end of an extended arm (near the bumper)?

Wret - did you just cut a hole where the tube fits into? Mine fits ontop of my filter, but im considering making a new one (in hard plastic or stainless steel) that fits as perfect as possible. I'm having an issue with my profec B controller gettin in my way though =\

 

[wret]

Wret - did you just cut a hole where the tube fits into? Mine fits ontop of my filter, but im considering making a new one (in hard plastic or stainless steel) that fits as perfect as possible. I'm having an issue with my profec B controller gettin in my way though =\

Yes. The "tube" that passes through is a piece of four-inch pvc pipe, which happens to be the perfect size for a 4.5 inch filter. It is not 100% air tight but by sealing any remain cracks and holes it can be nearly so. Sealing it this well is not really important unless you are trying to get a ram-air effect.

 

[deflator]

Its hard to explain what I'm planning, so I made a diagram.

You know how cone filters have a recessed center part? I'll have the aluminum ducting I already have in place jammed over the top of the filter, ramming air from the kidney bean opening into the top of the filter while the rest of the filter is just in the wheel well getting ambient atmosphere.

 

[mccurdy]

interesting. You'd risk getting the filter increasingly dirtier at a faster rate, as well as risk running over something, possibly knocking the filter outta place and gettin stuff in your turbo.

If you have a method to make sure it aint going anywhere, then i say go for it, and let us know how it goes!

 

[ApexVIII]

hmm, thats a good idea, with the elbow, i think ima stick with the shield though

 

[wangboy925]

Anyone see an increase of power with these CAI ideas

 

[wishihadatalon]

Anyone see an increase of power with these CAI ideas

Owner of the car that I did one for said that he felt a butt dyno difference. I don't even really care if it doesn't make more power, I would just like to keep the car consistant from 1 pull to the next.

P.S. I doubt anyone on here has access to a dyno that they can just run back to back tests on.

 

[Black_Bullet]

I posted my old cold air setup when I was still running 2g mas in last page.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bol...t-5.html?highlight=Cold+air+intake+done+right

Logged 30 deg temp drops which is great.

New CAI setup with maft... I used 2.5 intercooler piping for intake.

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[ApexVIII]

looks good!

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Its hard to explain what I'm planning, so I made a diagram.

You know how cone filters have a recessed center part? I'll have the aluminum ducting I already have in place jammed over the top of the filter, ramming air from the kidney bean opening into the top of the filter while the rest of the filter is just in the wheel well getting ambient atmosphere.

The only thing I don't find agreeable with that idea is that the recessed part of the filter you mentioned is roughly only 20% of the filter surface. The rest is hot, possibly stagnant, air from the tires/wheelwell.

I think that if you wanted the best results, based on that diagram (nice drawing btw), you would enclose the entire filter in the nice fat end of the SMIC shroud or at least have the air flowing to the entire thing, rather than only the end with the smallest surface area and thus smallest intake volume.

Also, for any of those still wondering about the negatives of spray painting your sheet metal boxes or the unsmooth surfaces of some of the piping used for these projects, you needn't worry.
For the purposes of directing air towards your air filter there is no significant turbulence that is going to diminish performance in any measurable way. Nor will a little spray paint negatively effect the cooling properties of aluminum - not that the metal heat shields actually do anything as far as cooling. They simply block hot air from entering to allow for more cool air intake sources.

 

[wishihadatalon]

The only thing I don't find agreeable with that idea is that the recessed part of the filter you mentioned is roughly only 20% of the filter surface. The rest is hot, possibly stagnant, air from the tires/wheelwell.

I think that if you wanted the best results, based on that diagram (nice drawing btw), you would enclose the entire filter in the nice fat end of the SMIC shroud or at least have the air flowing to the entire thing, rather than only the end with the smallest surface area and thus smallest intake volume.

Also, for any of those still wondering about the negatives of spray painting your sheet metal boxes or the unsmooth surfaces of some of the piping used for these projects, you needn't worry.
For the purposes of directing air towards your air filter there is no significant turbulence that is going to diminish performance in any measurable way. Nor will a little spray paint negatively effect the cooling properties of aluminum - not that the metal heat shields actually do anything as far as cooling. They simply block hot air from entering to allow for more cool air intake sources.

Air is neither stagnant nor hot there. Air is still able to get there from under the car, also the tire can work as a puller to draw air from that area. I agree with boxing it in though. Also why add so many bends to put it down in there? Why not just box off the area where the filter goes (air flow can be significant behind the headlight ) and make a ducting system that goes through the stock sidemount hole location? It requires zero cutting of the car, maintains a clean look, and will work just as well if not better being able to have less bends.

 

[asd_gst]

i have been thinking about this on my 1g i like the one in the link. but anyone have problems with water in the intake?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Air is neither stagnant nor hot there. Air is still able to get there from under the car, also the tire can work as a puller to draw air from that area. I agree with boxing it in though. Also why add so many bends to put it down in there? Why not just box off the area where the filter goes (air flow can be significant behind the headlight ) and make a ducting system that goes through the stock sidemount hole location? It requires zero cutting of the car, maintains a clean look, and will work just as well if not better being able to have less bends.

I still think that the air in that spot is less than ideal, and certainly not as fresh and cool as it could be - given the purposes of the project. But otherwise I completely agree. Less bends is cleaner, and thus better.

 

[turbo addict]

I have used this for 6 or 7 years works great! look to the bottom of the page.5.0 FORD 1979 AND LATER PERFORMANCE SERPENTINE PULLEYS

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I have used this for 6 or 7 years works great! look to the bottom of the page.5.0 FORD 1979 AND LATER PERFORMANCE SERPENTINE PULLEYS

I really like that part. Do you have pics of it installed? How much did it run you? How flexible is the tubing?
Tell me more.

 

[mccurdy]

I was contemplating building a box with 1 wall taken off to attach to the underside of my wheel well around the hole where my air ducting goes through. I would pull the filter down through the hole instead, and have this box surround it, and simply point my air duct directly to the filter.

I think a combination like this would work best.
1.) filter is up higher away from possible water threats
2.) Its just outside of the engine bay, meaking temps cooler
3.) relatively inexpensive considering you no longer have to build a heat resistant container around your filter. Instead build one around the filter in the wheel well to keep the filter 'safe'.

I was gonna do this..but i blew my engine >_<

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

I have used this for 6 or 7 years works great! look to the bottom of the page.5.0 FORD 1979 AND LATER PERFORMANCE SERPENTINE PULLEYS

+1....tell me more! any pics?

 

[turbo addict]

I really like that part. Do you have pics of it installed? How much did it run you? How flexible is the tubing?
Tell me more.

I have this on my mirage turbo 1.6 liter. The hose is big, 5". but it flows like you wouldn't believe and is very flexible; the scoop is at the bottom of the front of the car in a high pressure area. I think that is one of the reasons that I can hold 30+psi on a e316 with fp2's and 9000rpm. spools sooner too. (and gets better mileage no pics as I am in the process of redoing it again. I was originally using the everything but the filter. (I was using the k&n that came with my stillen kit, even though it is a much smaller filter (5" long) and I am switching to the filter that came with the march kit it is( 9"), only problem is that the inlet is only 3" and my inlet is 4.5" (for the mas) so I am modding the filter). the mirage engine bay is very small and making it fit is a pita. But I have done it before. In a dsm you have a ton more room.

PS. aem is suppose to make a filter that would work perfectly but is has been on hold for over a year. I have tried to order it 3 different times from 3 different places.
4.5" Dryflow Air Filter Short Neck 9" Element
21-2069DK
If they ever make it I would be all over that.

This would be really easy to do if you have a 3" inlet already, aka-gm maf or speed density.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Air is neither stagnant nor hot there. Air is still able to get there from under the car, also the tire can work as a puller to draw air from that area. I agree with boxing it in though. Also why add so many bends to put it down in there? Why not just box off the area where the filter goes (air flow can be significant behind the headlight ) and make a ducting system that goes through the stock sidemount hole location? It requires zero cutting of the car, maintains a clean look, and will work just as well if not better being able to have less bends.

The only thing I think is gained by adding all those scoops and tubings and doing it were you get the air flow from the headlight area is for a ram air effect, but the cool air coming in thru there is still mixing with the hot air under the hood. I dont think the issue is getting air flowing better to the filter, it can breathe fine on its own, I think its more important to just have the filter away from the engine bay heat, therefore locating the filter were the stock smic used to go is probably the best bet in lowering intake temps.
How I did mines there isnt any sharp dramatic bends. Now I am considering making a sheet metal shield over the top of the filter itself ( mines in pics above ) so the engine bay heat doesnt try to go downwards into the fenderwell with the fresh air.

Running it in this location would seem like it would be dangerous as far as hydrolocking, but I made sheet metal splash shields behind and under the filter and i mean it can still get wet, but its enclosed off enough that its safe from a puddle... To ease anyones thoughts of sucking in any water, I drive this car daily, and all week on my 20min drive home from work it has been pouring, and yesterday It was raining so hard I could hardly see 10 feet in front of me, and was driving thru about 3 inches of water; but even with all that rain, no problems, and my gm maft didnt even start acting funny.
Just stay out of boost, and keep it light throttle when theres the threat of water present ...

 

[turbo addict]

The only thing I think is gained by adding all those scoops and tubings and doing it were you get the air flow from the headlight area is for a ram air effect, but the cool air coming in thru there is still mixing with the hot air under the hood. I dont think the issue is getting air flowing better to the filter, it can breathe fine on its own, I think its more important to just have the filter away from the engine bay heat, therefore locating the filter were the stock smic used to go is probably the best bet in lowering intake temps.
How I did mines there isnt any sharp dramatic bends. Now I am considering making a sheet metal shield over the top of the filter itself ( mines in pics above ) so the engine bay heat doesnt try to go downwards into the fenderwell with the fresh air.

Running it in this location would seem like it would be dangerous as far as hydrolocking, but I made sheet metal splash shields behind and under the filter and i mean it can still get wet, but its enclosed off enough that its safe from a puddle... To ease anyones thoughts of sucking in any water, I drive this car daily, and all week on my 20min drive home from work it has been pouring, and yesterday It was raining so hard I could hardly see 10 feet in front of me, and was driving thru about 3 inches of water; but even with all that rain, no problems, and my gm maft didnt even start acting funny.
Just stay out of boost, and keep it light throttle when theres the threat of water present ...

take this as you will but years back my friend had a 1g awd with a 20g cams etc. we tried different intakes and here is what we came up with. (keep in mind that this is with a standalone so no mas and a internal wastegate.) with a 3" inlet filter in the stock location and a 3" intake pipe the car would max out at 18psi, with the air filter and intake pipe off (open turbo) the car would make 20psi and with a ram air setup the car would make 26psi. all with boost controller maxed out.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Ive seen ram air setups tested on bikes and they gained "maybe" 1 psi worth of air pressure if your at highway speeds and if its set up properly... It would make more sense if it was cold air intake pushing denser air into the compressor but still a 6psi gain is ridiculous.
Idk, thats cool that he got good results though from a little experiementing.

 

[eder-loco]

My friend is acually fabricating me one after i gave him the idea off this thread.
We might be done next friday, We using that 4'' metallic tubing But what he is doing is, He will make a Plate That will bolt on the bumper, so all the air that hits it, will go inside.

 

[wishihadatalon]

The only thing I think is gained by adding all those scoops and tubings and doing it were you get the air flow from the headlight area is for a ram air effect, but the cool air coming in thru there is still mixing with the hot air under the hood. I dont think the issue is getting air flowing better to the filter, it can breathe fine on its own, I think its more important to just have the filter away from the engine bay heat, therefore locating the filter were the stock smic used to go is probably the best bet in lowering intake temps.
How I did mines there isnt any sharp dramatic bends. Now I am considering making a sheet metal shield over the top of the filter itself ( mines in pics above ) so the engine bay heat doesnt try to go downwards into the fenderwell with the fresh air.

Running it in this location would seem like it would be dangerous as far as hydrolocking, but I made sheet metal splash shields behind and under the filter and i mean it can still get wet, but its enclosed off enough that its safe from a puddle... To ease anyones thoughts of sucking in any water, I drive this car daily, and all week on my 20min drive home from work it has been pouring, and yesterday It was raining so hard I could hardly see 10 feet in front of me, and was driving thru about 3 inches of water; but even with all that rain, no problems, and my gm maft didnt even start acting funny.
Just stay out of boost, and keep it light throttle when theres the threat of water present ...

You can block of an area of the engine bay just fine. Any hot air that might get past that will not be sucked in because air pressure will be much greater coming from your ducting. This also applies to the engine bay air going into your fender well.


Cooler denser air has a great effect on turbo chargers. Bring your Florida car up to Michigan some time and you would see a huge difference in performance and on the boost gauge. Cooler denser air is exactly what you get from a ram air set up. Here is some good reading on this subject. Tuning the LET - Intake When we are finally done with the setup that we are doing, there will be a fully enclosed setup that only gets air from the opening in the front bumper. This is the same opening that was good enough for a factory side mount, so you know it gets enough air flow.

 

[Black_Bullet]

You can block of an area of the engine bay just fine. Any hot air that might get past that will not be sucked in because air pressure will be much greater coming from your ducting. This also applies to the engine bay air going into your fender well.


Cooler denser air has a great effect on turbo chargers. Bring your Florida car up to Michigan some time and you would see a huge difference in performance and on the boost gauge. Cooler denser air is exactly what you get from a ram air set up. Here is some good reading on this subject. Tuning the LET - Intake When we are finally done with the setup that we are doing, there will be a fully enclosed setup that only gets air from the opening in the front bumper. This is the same opening that was good enough for a factory side mount, so you know it gets enough air flow.

Im sea level though, how high up are you in Michigan.

I read that article, and thats were I think I got this info from

Ive seen ram air setups tested on bikes and they gained "maybe" 1 psi worth of air pressure if your at highway speeds and if its set up properly...

I think the temp drop is probably more signifant than directing air, but of course thats just me talking, I have nothing to prove that, but I know temp has a large effect since the compressor will be able to virtually pack more air molecules in since they are denser thus providing a cooler air charge thru your whole intake despite how much they re heat up pre intercooler, there will still be more oxygen in the intake track because once its in there, its in there...