Clutch won't engage

[Jordan_40]

I put a new trans/clutch in my 2g and the clutch won't engage. Already have the extended rod. Fork can't move any farther. Master cyl rod is adjusted as far as possible. Help me before I lose my mind. Thanks in advanced

 

[crash89]

Not engaging is telling me that you can get into gear but the vehicle doesnt move upon letting the clutch out.. I think you're meaning disengage. As in you cannot get the car into gear at all with the clutch pedal depressed. The master cylinder rod isnt supposed to be adjusted to its length limit, its supposed to be just on the brink of not letting the system bleed itself in the actual cylinder.

Have you watched Jacks proper adjustment video? Once you have it properly adjusted perhaps try and adjust the up limit switch for the actual pedal then adjust the rod according. If that doesnt work then you're going to have to pull the trans back out because most likely the flywheel step height is way off.

 

[Jordan_40]

Yeah I adjusted it to there I was told maybe washer out the pivot ball to get more throw?

 

[Jordan_40]

Car won't go in gear and if you start it in gear it's like you don't have the clutch depressed at all

 

[crash89]

Is the clutch master cylinder an OEM unit or parts store brand? Extended slave rods and shimming the pivot ball are just crutches that kind of help an already existing issue. Heres my experience with store brand and oem master cylinders. OEM on the right. As you can see the oem has a considerable amount more of adjustment capability. Other than that its pull the trans back out to find your issue man.

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[Jordan_40]

Well it's store bought. But my thing is the throw out beating fork is already being pushed to the farthest it can be. That's why I thought maybe something needed shimmed to get more throw?

 

[crash89]

Is it physically hitting the transmission? If so then shimming anything is not going to help you whatsoever. Also, if it is hitting something, again you're going to have to pull the transmission because you step height is wrong!

 

[Jordan_40]

So I need a different flywheel?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Is the pressure plate in backwards? I don't think you can do it but it would not ever disengage if so. Trying to think outside the norm. Did the trans/clutch go together without any issues?

 

[crash89]

So I need a different flywheel?

Dont need a different one. Did you have it machined when you installed the new clutch? If not the step height is most likely out of spec and needs to be resurfaced.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Crash, dont you think the machine shop, if they didn't know what they were doing would machine the flywheel surface but forget about the pillars? And if that were so then he would have no clutch. These machines are different than domestic so I wonder how many machine shops know to machine off the pillars the same amount as the flywheel surface. Just putting that out there. I'm not sure what would keep the clutch engaged unless the shop machines way too much off the stands for the PP like you are thinking, but they could. In that case I would think it would be difficult to bolt the PP up. Im really scratchin my head on this.

 

[nelliott500]

I think the bigger question here is where does the clutch fork sit in the inspection window? With the clutch engaged (foot off the pedal), you want the clutch fork to be sitting in the middle of the window or a little bit towards the driver's side. If it's too far towards the passenger's side, you could be running out of throw room which would prevent you from being able to disengage the clutch properly. You've said a few times now that the fork can't move any further, but what do you mean by this? Is it physically restricted (i.e. hitting the bellhousing)? Or do you just mean that when you have the pedal to the floor, the fork just simply doesn't travel enough to disengage the clutch?

If the fork is hitting the bellhousing, you either need to shim the pivot ball or replace the ball/fork.



Use this picture as a reference for the clutch fork inspection window:

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I like your picture nelliott, seen it a few times and is very good for visual reference!!! Could TOB be in backwards??? It certainly wouldn't have enough throw to try and disengage the thing, but yes Jordan_40, is the clutch fork moving at all or is it hitting the bellhousing and preventing it from moving any more? Have you pumped and pumped and pumped the clutch just to see if that does anything? I know you have new parts, just wondering if it still has air which is compressible.

 

[crash89]

Crash, dont you think the machine shop, if they didn't know what they were doing would machine the flywheel surface but forget about the pillars?

Thats what Im talking about "step height" The distance between the top height of the "pillar" to the actual friction surface.

If the fork is hitting the bellhousing, you either need to shim the pivot ball or replace the ball/fork.

Like I've said previously, shimming the pivot ball is just a crutch. Replace, yes. But if you have to shim it then there is another problem present that needs to be addressed. The factory clutch worked just fine when everything is in spec. No reason that an aftermarket clutch shouldn't if everything mechanically is within spec. No crutches needed!

 

[northernawd]

aftermarket clutches with heavier pressure plates sometimes needing more throw to disengage the clutch properly. look at your clutch fork and see where it sits within the window going into the transmission. Ive just done this and had to take everything apart to replace the pivot ball and fork. On road engineering it states that you're not supposed to shim a brand new fork and pivot as the surfaces have not begin to wear down yet. Check your pedal assembly for any play, if any, fix that or you'll never get proper disengagement. Also, if a TOB is on backwards the two fins that hold the TOB to the fork would be destroyed and likely destroy your pressure plate fingers.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Oh no doubt about damage, I've had std trans cars all my life so yep it would be bad but he's not disengaging at all.

 

[nelliott500]

aftermarket clutches with heavier pressure plates sometimes needing more throw to disengage the clutch properly. look at your clutch fork and see where it sits within the window going into the transmission. Ive just done this and had to take everything apart to replace the pivot ball and fork. On road engineering it states that you're not supposed to shim a brand new fork and pivot as the surfaces have not begin to wear down yet. Check your pedal assembly for any play, if any, fix that or you'll never get proper disengagement. Also, if a TOB is on backwards the two fins that hold the TOB to the fork would be destroyed and likely destroy your pressure plate fingers.

Good point about the pedal assembly. It's more likely on a 1g but 2g cars aren't immune to it.

 

[mattp_65]

First the extended rod needs to go away and use OEM. Also I had a similar issue using an ACT 2600 for the past 10 years did a number on my clutch pedal see http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/can-not-shift-into-any-gears-pulled-transmission.477689/page-3
Got a used pedal and now engagement is perfect.

 

[northernawd]

The extended rod is the biggest bandaid in your whole set up. If you need to use one, you likely are covering up another problem. You likely need a shim or rebuild your pedal assembly.