Clutch wont disengage

[dsmornothing]

Alright, I just put in a brand new Fidanza 3.2 and it was going fine for a day or so. But now all of the sudden it will not fully disengage and its making my transmission very notchy. i am at just over 200 miles on the break in. the clutch has been adjusted the way it should be (so you can still push in the slave when the clutch pedal is up) I am not sure what to do in this situation, i was considering throwing in a new slave and master. But the slave still moves like it should....Could it still be bad?

 

[saechao04]

Did you bleed the slave and master cylinder after install? Also did you use an oem mitsu throwout bearing? I've heard the throwout bearings that come with the clutch is garbage.

 

[ziggo0]

Have someone press the clutch to the floor and you watching the slave, if it goes out then receeds some then you may have a bad slave or master cylinder. I found this out for myself, I have a tear in one of the master cylinder seals.

 

[gstryyder]

ss line, slave and master cylinder rebuilds... should be done with any new heavy duty clutch install

 

[Afroclipse]

check to see if fork is sitting in the middle or towards driver side, if towards passenger side then fork and pivot ball have worn out and need to be replaced, cheap version shim the ball. In my opinion lung transplants like this need to be done once and right or you will keep going on the operating table spending hours to redo it because, well there is no short cut to the lungs buddy but through the breast plate.

 

[dsmornothing]

Did you bleed the slave and master cylinder after install? Also did you use an oem mitsu throwout bearing? I've heard the throwout bearings that come with the clutch is garbage.

I used the TO bearing from the kit, i know its not that because i can see it in there pressing down the fins of the pressure plate, just not far enough. It seems like the more its driven the worse it gets, also if i pump the heck out of my pedal on the occasion it will change the let off point on the pedal.

 

[LiquidX]

Have you looked into an extension rod for the slave cylinder?
STMDSM - Mitsubishi Extended Pushrod

 

[snowborder714]

I consider an extended slave rod just a band-aid fix for some other problem.

When was the last time your slave and/or master were replaced? If you adjusted the clutch via Jack's video, that should be fine. So the next logical thing to look at would be the physical components of the system.

I always recommend an OEM throw out bearing, but I don't know how the ones that come with the Fidanza kit are.

 

[dsmornothing]

I consider an extended slave rod just a band-aid fix for some other problem.

When was the last time your slave and/or master were replaced? If you adjusted the clutch via Jack's video, that should be fine. So the next logical thing to look at would be the physical components of the system.

I always recommend an OEM throw out bearing, but I don't know how the ones that come with the Fidanza kit are.

Alright, my game plan is, Removing the canister on the tranny that the fluid runs through, and bleeding my whole system again, if there is air in there i am leaning towards a slave or master cylinder. on the occasion my master cylinder makes a heck of a click when you push or release the clutch...could this be normal?

 

[LiquidX]

I'd say you have something going on. The system should be relativly silent being hydraulic. If the actual sound is coming from the master cylinder, then I would take a guess it's going out and will need replaced.

 

[dsmornothing]

I'd say you have something going on. The system should be relativly silent being hydraulic. If the actual sound is coming from the master cylinder, then I would take a guess it's going out and will need replaced.

I am slightly confused at this point, i bled my whole system again, and i have someone telling me that my pedal should not stay on the floor after i close up the bleeder....is this true? i always thought it had to be picked up slowly

 

[LiquidX]

I am slightly confused at this point, i bled my whole system again, and i have someone telling me that my pedal should not stay on the floor after i close up the bleeder....is this true? i always thought it had to be picked up slowly

It should pop back up since you shouldn't have air in the system. Are you closing off the nipple fully?

 

[dsmornothing]

It should pop back up since you shouldn't have air in the system. Are you closing off the nipple fully?

Yes it is getting closed fully, i wait for the fluid to stop coming and quickly shut it, i have a line running off of the nipple into a jar so i can watch for air bubbles, but each time the pedal needs to be picked up off of the floor. after the bleeder is closed and pedal is raised you can put it down and it comes back up on its own.

 

[LiquidX]

Yes it is getting closed fully, i wait for the fluid to stop coming and quickly shut it, i have a line running off of the nipple into a jar so i can watch for air bubbles, but each time the pedal needs to be picked up off of the floor. after the bleeder is closed and pedal is raised you can put it down and it comes back up on its own.

You should check out speed bleeders to make it even easier. That actually sounds normal now. You are keeping an eye on the fluid level when you pump?

 

[dsmornothing]

You should check out speed bleeders to make it even easier. That actually sounds normal now. You are keeping an eye on the fluid level when you pump?

Alright as i looked over things more, when the clutch is pushed in and released the slave is very slow to return. Should it not just snap back? i removed my master and slave cylinders and there was a tiny bit of oil behind the rubber on the master and a little bit in the slave as well.

 

[reardrv]

Sounds like your Master and slave need to be replaced, might as well put in a new braided line and get rid of the accumulator while your at it. Don't worry about the pedal not returning after you re tighten the bleeder screw while your bleeding it, its gonna do that because right after you bleed the slave it removes all of the tension coming from the pressure plate into the hydraulic system. Your supposed to have to pick it up right after you close the bleeder.

 

[dsmornothing]

Sounds like your Master and slave need to be replaced, might as well put in a new braided line and get rid of the accumulator while your at it. Don't worry about the pedal not returning after you re tighten the bleeder screw while your bleeding it, its gonna do that because right after you bleed the slave it removes all of the tension coming from the pressure plate into the hydraulic system. Your supposed to have to pick it up right after you close the bleeder.

Correct me if im wrong but should the slave suck right back when the pedal is released? right now its very slow to go back

 

[gstryyder]

first to answer your slave cylinder question. if everything is bled, adjusted and working properly that will be the case but if you have bad seals, or air in the lines... it will be slow to return.
rebuild your stuff.... or buy new ones. get the stainless line. and when you go to bleed the clutch you need to make sure it is adjusted properly. if it isn't it will be hard to bleed, or impossible to bleed. something people tend to overlook.

steps

fyi (use a box end wrench).

1. press clutch pedal and hold
2. open bleeder valve just long enough to be fully open, then shut it... at which point you can see if there is air or fluid in the system. it will be obvious.
3. when bleeder is closed release the clutch SLOWLY!! it will sit on the floor or come back up, DEPENDING ON HOW LONG THE BLEEDER IS LEFT OPEN!
4. do it again, n again, n again until you can press your clutch and see/feel it fully disengage.


pretty simple, yet most people have no facking clue how to do it the simple, easy, fast way...