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Clutch Slipping after 16G install

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ChvyKc

15+ Year Contributor
651
14
Nov 5, 2003
Cayce, South Carolina
Alright, car has an ACT 2600 in it (according to previous owner). It is the only thing on the car that I didn't put on, so I am not for sure what clutch it is.

I was able to launch the car with 10 pounds of boost built with the 14B, but I have tried twice with the 16G and the clutch slips and you can smell it burning. Does this sound right? I didn't think that I would have clutch problems for a while with the 2600 in there. I don't mind right now, I think that is what is keeping me from blowing my rear-end apart, but I am contemplating getting a SBR 3500 now because a 4-bolt is in the very near future. Anybody else having problems with this clutch????
 
ChvyKc said:
I was able to launch the car with 10 pounds of boost built with the 14B, but I have tried twice with the 16G and the clutch slips and you can smell it burning. Does this sound right?
How are you building 10psi of boost on the launch without "studder launch" (e-prom/DSMLink) or an A/T :confused:

FYI.. a 2600# is way overkill for your current setup, so if you are experiencing slippage you may have other problems: leaking rear seal/ transmission seals oiling your clutch, flywheel with incorrect step or just a worn/glazed clutch disk.

I didn't think that I would have clutch problems for a while with the 2600 in there. I don't mind right now, I think that is what is keeping me from blowing my rear-end apart, but I am contemplating getting a SBR 3500 now because a 4-bolt is in the very near future. Anybody else having problems with this clutch????
Deliberately slipping your clutch at launch (which smells like burning clutch :coy: ) is the reason your 3-bolt is still alive. I had a 2100# and dumped at 5500K and my 3-bolt axle snapped like a twig. :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
How are you building 10psi of boost on the launch without "studder launch" (e-prom/DSMLink) or an A/T :confused:

FYI.. a 2600# is way overkill for your current setup, so if you are experiencing slippage you may have other problems: leaking rear seal/ transmission seals oiling your clutch, flywheel with incorrect step or just a worn/glazed clutch disk.


Deliberately slipping your clutch at launch (which smells like burning clutch :coy: ) is the reason your 3-bolt is still alive. I had a 2100# and dumped at 5500K and my 3-bolt axle snapped like a twig. :dsm:

If you rev the car slowly (not like you would an all-motor car) you can build boost sitting still. If you let the clutch go while your foot is pressed in on the gas you can come off the line with boost built. It's hard to explain and a lot easier to show you in person.

I am not deliberately slipping the clutch out, even thought I probably should be. If I drop the clutch at 5500 with boost built the clutch will slip for about two or three second and finally bite. I am going to try to adjust it and see if i can't get it to bite, I haven't really had a chance to mess with it to much since I got the new turbo on there, but I was pretty sure that clutch shouldn't be slipping with what I have.
 
ChvyKc said:
I was able to launch the car with 10 pounds of boost built with the 14B, but I have tried twice with the 16G and the clutch slips and you can smell it burning.
I dont have a stutter box or dsmlink and i could build 10 pounds on my car from a stand still
 
97Boost4u said:
I dont have a stutter box or dsmlink and i could build 10 pounds on my car from a stand still
Without power-breaking (i.e. slipping the clutch and holding the brake) :confused:
I've never been able to get more than 1-2psi from free revving (14B, 16G or 50-trim). The engine needs load to produce boost, which slipping the clutch will do.

The 2600# is an on/off button. When released the car will either spin tires or break parts (or both).. it should not slip unless you have an assload of HP and slicks or there is something wrong with it as I said earlier :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
Without power-breaking (i.e. slipping the clutch and holding the brake) :confused:
I've never been able to get more than 1-2psi from free revving (14B, 16G or 50-trim). The engine needs load to produce boost, which slipping the clutch will do.

The 2600# is an on/off button. When released the car will either spin tires or break parts (or both).. it should not slip unless you have an assload of HP and slicks or there is something wrong with it as I said earlier :dsm:

You should have been able to build boost on both the 14B and the 16G. I have no idea about the 50 trim, I have never ran one. There was a guy both me and 97Boost4u knew that was able to build 15 pounds of boost sitting still with no stutter-box on an FP3055 (old version of the 3052) You should be able to load the motor by making long revs while sitting still. As long as the throttle body is closed you should be able to put a load on the motor.

I just went and got some gas and took the car for ride. I launched the car at 5500 with about 10-12 pounds built and it just barked the tires and took off. I don't know why the clutch is sometimes biting and sometimes it isn't. I think that I just need to work with it some more to see if I can't get it right. One of my buddies just got an '05 STI and he wants to run me so I got to do something before then. I shouldn't have a problem pulling him up top but I know that I can pull him off the line if the clutch would just bite.
 
ChvyKc said:
You should be able to load the motor by making long revs while sitting still. As long as the throttle body is closed you should be able to put a load on the motor.
I call BS. How do you rev while keeping the throttle plate shut? By design of the parts, ie the pedal connected by cable to the TB, pressing the pedal=opening the throttle. What is going on? WTF
 
weith1111 said:
I call BS. How do you rev while keeping the throttle plate shut? By design of the parts, ie the pedal connected by cable to the TB, pressing the pedal=opening the throttle. What is going on? WTF
he meant when it closes arse.... all u gotta do is rev steady 5000-7000, dont hold it but constantly keep on and off and u can make it happen... believe or not it still wont change what we can with our cars!!
 
If it is an act2600, The pedal pressure would be alot heavier then any other clutch.

About the whole launching and rear thing, I've launched my last 90 at 7500rpms already and it DID NOT break. My other 90gsx that was beat/clubbed, I banged it off the revlimiter and just lifted my leg right off of the clutch as fast as i could.. Nope, The rear didn't break.
 
weith1111 said:
I call BS. How do you rev while keeping the throttle plate shut? By design of the parts, ie the pedal connected by cable to the TB, pressing the pedal=opening the throttle. What is going on? WTF

Sorry, left a word out of that sentence. I meant as long as the throttle body is NOT closed, you should be able to put a load on the motor and build boost by just reving. I am not having any more problems with the clutch though. I don't know what was causing it to slip but it fixed itself.

Is it just me and 97Boost4u that can build boost off the line without a stutter box??? Why is everybody having problems believing us?
 
You guys must be doing something alot different then the rest of us to build boost with an MT with no studder box nevermind 1-2 psi like mine studdering at WOT you guys are at 10 psi leaving the line :rolleyes:
 
hellotbone said:
You guys must be doing something alot different then the rest of us to build boost with an MT with no studder box nevermind 1-2 psi like mine studdering at WOT you guys are at 10 psi leaving the line :rolleyes:

Wow, it's amazing that me and Holt (97Boost4u) are the only people that can do this. He was riding in my car when I did it last night, and I had two other people there with me that saw me do it.

I am going to have to find someone with a camera so I can video tape this.
 
Please do. I'll go give it a shot myself at lunch, but I've never heard of anyone being able to do this without a studderbox or AT.
 
1993eclipseGS said:
If it is an act2600, The pedal pressure would be alot heavier then any other clutch.

About the whole launching and rear thing, I've launched my last 90 at 7500rpms already and it DID NOT break. My other 90gsx that was beat/clubbed, I banged it off the revlimiter and just lifted my leg right off of the clutch as fast as i could.. Nope, The rear didn't break.
And now you drive a GS?

You sound like the guy that banged 100whores whos #### didnt' fall off.. LUCKY or full of shit. Either way, I'll put 16years worth of threads noting the stupidity of clutch dumping with a 3-bolt against your experiences any day :dsm:
 
97Boost4u said:
he meant when it closes arse.... all u gotta do is rev steady 5000-7000, dont hold it but constantly keep on and off and u can make it happen... believe or not it still wont change what we can with our cars!!
I guess you don't have a working BOV? By design it should release pressure when the TB closes :confused:
 
DSM90AWD said:
I guess you don't have a working BOV? By design it should release pressure when the TB closes :confused:

Yeah I was actually too confused by his poor grammar to understand his "clarification." I'm agreeing with everyone on here that you guys don't know what the H you are talking about, but if you say you've done it, show us, and I will try it out myself.
 
weith1111 said:
Please do. I'll go give it a shot myself at lunch, but I've never heard of anyone being able to do this without a studderbox or AT.

Alright, I will see what I can do on getting a camera. Try it out and let me know if you are able to do it.
 
DSM90AWD said:
I guess you don't have a working BOV? By design it should release pressure when the TB closes :confused:

Of course the BOV is going to release the pressure. Everytime that I let go of the gas the boost goes into vacuum, but not far enough that I can't get it back above 5 pounds the next time that I rev. It just amazes me that noone else has been able to do this. :confused:
 
DSM90AWD said:
And now you drive a GS?

You sound like the guy that banged 100whores whos #### didnt' fall off.. LUCKY or full of shit. Either way, I'll put 16years worth of threads noting the stupidity of clutch dumping with a 3-bolt against your experiences any day :dsm:


Actually, If you know how to read.. You would notice I said a BEATER GSX. And now, A gs was my first eclipse I ever owned, Which was almost 5 years ago. Thanks though. :rolleyes: And yeah, I would not recommend it, If it WAS NOT A BEATER CAR.
 
ChvyKc said:
Everytime that I let go of the gas the boost goes into vacuum, but not far enough that I can't get it back above 5 pounds the next time that I rev. It just amazes me that noone else has been able to do this. :confused:
Out of curiosity where did you tap for your boost gauge?
Warning.. if you say "stock boost gauge" you're going to get 10,000,000,000,000 (-) Tuners points :p :dsm:
 
1993eclipseGS said:
Actually, If you know how to read.. You would notice I said a BEATER GSX.
And you had an ACT2600# in both of your 1990 "Beater" AWDs (i.e. the topic of this discussion) :confused:

If not, guess we'll be attending the same "Reading is Fun" classes this winter :rolleyes:
 
Nope, It was a stock clutch. I was referring to 3bolt rear question he had previously asked.

About the act2600, I said that if it were infact a 2600, He would notice the heavier pedal pressure.

No point in arguing, Seem's like we both misunderstood each other.
 
DSM90AWD said:
Out of curiosity where did you tap for your boost gauge?
Warning.. if you say "stock boost gauge" you're going to get 10,000,000,000,000 (-) Tuners points :p :dsm:

ROFL I don't think so, I know the stock boost gauge is a POS. I can't remember off the top of my head where it is tapped. I didn't actually tap it, the guy that owned the car before me installed the boost gauge and I went back over it to make sure that it was done right but I don't remember where it was tapped. I will have to get back to you on that one.

As far as pedal pressure, that is one of the reasons that I was sure that this guy wasn't lying to me about the clutch. The pedal is extremely stiff, a lot stiffer than the one that was in my 2000 Eclipse GT (ACT 2100). But the clutch is not slipping anymore, it is biting like a mofo now. I was extremely happy with it after last night.
 
ChvyKc said:
Alright, I will see what I can do on getting a camera. Try it out and let me know if you are able to do it.

Sorry there is no way I can rev to 7000 rpm repeatedly around the burbs. It's waaaaaay to loud. I got it to like 5 grand for a second and then realized if anyone were to pass by they would freak out. Video?
 
FYI.. I tried reving the engine btw 5-6K to produce boost but saw maybe 1psi which dropped to -10 as soon as the RPMs dropped again.

I did datalog a race I ran a few weeks back and saw that after ~2secs of Studderbox set at 5K I built ~4.5psi of boost with my 50-trim. May have gotten a bit more had I more time to build boost, but in a race, such things are not always possible ;)

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