The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Stella

Probationary Member
9
6
Mar 2, 2022
White Rock, BC, Canada
So my car blew a clutch (ACT2600) a while back. (pressure plate fingers blew off, and disc was worn)

I Removed the transmission and installed a new ACT 2600 sprung hub 6 puck assembly. I also installed a new Slave cylinder, Clutch fork, and throw out bearing w/clip. I then bled my clutch many times until no more air bubbles were present.

Upon starting the car, the clutch seemed mushier than I remembered.
I put it in first gear and it engaged about 1/4 of an inch off the ground, rolled about a foot forwards and died.
It also has a rotational rattling knock sound that gets worse with higher RPM's. I want to mention the clutch does NOT stick to the floor, It pops back up like normal, just engages at the floor.

I have troubleshooted this for weeks and read every forum. I am at a complete dead end with this, I have checked everything.

Any Thoughts? Thank you !

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
If you haven't I would try reverse bleeding it.

-Remove the rod that goes from the slave cylinder to the clutch fork
-Remove the boot from the end of the slave cylinder
-Press the clutch down and go check how close to the slave cylinder piston has moved
-Continue to push the clutch down a little and then allow it to move back up while checking the slave piston to make sure it isn't to the end of the bore
-Once the slave piston reaches the end of the bore let it sit for a minute
-Then manually push the slave piston all the way back in the bore as far as possible
-If you have a helper have them watch the master cylinder for air bubbles while you force the slave piston in, otherwise maybe record with your phone to see if any came up.

Repeat until there are no more bubbles. This procedure usually gets all the air out in 2 times when I have done it.


As far as the knock maybe a piece of the clutch fingers got stuck behind the flywheel somehow or somewhere you didn't see it in the bell housing? If possible, try to account for all the clutch fingers and pieces
 
Thank You, I will try that! I never thought of reverse bleeding.
I also thought of measuring the distance the rod extends compared to my last one which worked fine.
The pressure plate fingers fell off when I took the clutch out. I placed it on the floor and they fell to the ground. Luckily that wont be my rattle issue.
 
Did you grease the TOB before install? They tend to rattle if not greased prior to install.

The other thing is you may need to adjust the master cylinder to ensure you are getting proper engagement. I have always followed this video for reference.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
My helper accidentally pushed on my clutch, blowing the piston out the end before I got my engine and trans back in. I cleaned it all up, relubed the seal on the piston then did the reverse bleed that was mentioned. As I pushed my piston back in (after filling the slave with brake fluid from it being WIDE OPEN) I had to crack the bleeder to get the piston to retract and at the same time I bled the air out. I then installed my QM Twin and it has worked fine after bleeding from the master also, for good measure.
I would suggest back bleeding the slave for sure. :thumb:
 
Did you grease the TOB before install? They tend to rattle if not greased prior to install.

The other thing is you may need to adjust the master cylinder to ensure you are getting proper engagement. I have always followed this video for reference.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I've actually heard very different opinions on this.
Some forums say "DONT GREASE ANYTHING!!! from the inside diameter where it glides on the TOB , or pivot point on clutch fork either.
Do you grease the inside of the bearing? I know they come pre-oiled. I did not grease anything.
 
I always grease the inside of the TOB before I install it on the trans input shaft. I didnt do it one time and it rattled like crazy, since then I always grease the TOB.
 
I coat the inside of my TOB with a tiny film of grease also and I run my greased hand on the snout also but just enough to keep it from rusting, so I wipe most of it off.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top